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BJ7 Door Fit

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chicken

chicken

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Help ...

I am trying to make my door fit on my BJ7. Annoyingly it was fitting OK, but the leading edge of the door was not straight and I couldn't look at it any longer, so I took the door off to sort that. When I took it off I noticed the door hinges were very stiff and so I bought a new set of hinges.

Now I can't get the top front edge of the door to come out far enough were it meets the front wing. I have tried adjusting both hinge mounts on the door and the door pillar, but I cant get the door to come over enough. I reckon it needs to come over another 5mm.

Before I start butchering the holes in the door post to allow me to slide the door over more, does anyone have any suggestions?
Other than that, the gaps all round look OK. I have fitted a few packers behind the top hinge which helped get the door lifted for the catch.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

IMG_4824.jpg



healey door.jpg

IMG_4820.jpg

IMG_4819.jpg

IMG_4818.jpg
 
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Chances are that those new reproduction hinges, just like many reproduction parts, are not accurate. Get the old hinges rebuilt with new bushings (thereā€™s a guy on eBay who does it) and your problem will probably be solved.

Also, replace those Pozidrive screws with socket cap set screws. When itā€™s all done and you're happy, drill through the hinge pillar into the hinge back plate in the U-shaped section tap it with, say, a 1/4ā€ thread and install a bolt. That secures the back plate in position behind the hinge pillar so if you ever have to remove the door again you donā€™t have to fool around with alignment as the back plates never move. Thank me later šŸ˜šŸ‘
 
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As said the difference is probably in the hinge. Since you are close I would willow out the holes in the hinge pillar to make them oval shaped or even a larger diameter of round. This will allow you to move the upper hinge plate outboard more. This is not an uncommon adjustment. The bolted up hinge will hid any irregularity. Use a narrow carbide burr to do the willowing you can push the threaded plate out of the way to do the work. A common practice to know where your plate and hinge should be after final adjustment and to ensure future alignment is to just drill to
1/8th inch holes thru the hinge, A-pillar and backing plate after you are satisfied with its final position. The 1/8th inch drill bits are then later used as alignment pins the next time you have to remove the hinge.
 
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Healey Nut said:
Chances are that those new reproduction hinges, just like many reproduction parts, are not accurate. Get the old hinges rebuilt with new bushings (thereā€™s a guy on eBay who does it) and your problem will probably be solved.

Also, replace those Pozidrive screws with socket cap set screws. When itā€™s all done and you're happy, drill through the hinge pillar into the hinge back plate in the U-shaped section tap it with, say, a 1/4ā€ thread and install a bolt. That secures the back plate in position behind the hinge pillar so if you ever have to remove the door again you donā€™t have to fool around with alignment as the back plates never move. Thank me later šŸ˜šŸ‘
Click to expand...
I did wonder if it was a hinge issue, i replaced because there was so much wear in it. I have found your guy on Ebay and dropped him a message, we are in the UK though so not sure its worth it.
Sorry what do you mean by socket cap set screws ?
Rob
 
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vette said:
As said the difference is probably in the hinge. Since you are close I would willow out the holes in the hinge pillar to make them oval shaped or even a larger diameter of round. This will allow you to move the upper hinge plate outboard more. This is not an uncommon adjustment. The bolted up hinge will hid any irregularity. Use a narrow carbide burr to do the willowing you can push the threaded plate out of the way to do the work. A common practice to know where your plate and hinge should be after final adjustment and to ensure future alignment is to just drill to
1/8th inch holes thru the hinge, A-pillar and backing plate after you are satisfied with its final position. The 1/8th inch drill bits are then later used as alignment pins the next time you have to remove the hinge.
Click to expand...
Hi Vette, thanks, i just wondered if i was being daft after adjusting everything.
I may try the old hinge back on first, if it's close and I can wait I will get it re-bushed if not the die grinder will come out !
Love these ideas about centralizing the backing plate, I spent a few hours trying on my knees trying to hold a heavy door with screwdrivers in the holes trying to line up the backing plate. šŸ„ŗ
Rob
 
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chicken said:
Sorry what do you mean by socket cap set screws ?
Rob
Click to expand...
countersunk head machine screws that are installed with an Allen key or Torx bit .
 
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chicken said:
Hi John, does anyone do the parts for the hinges, i have a press here, maybe i can get a pin made locally and new bushes.
Click to expand...
Any local machine shop should be able to rebush the hinges for you
 
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I took four 2ā€ bolts the same size as the mounting screws and cut off the heads. Then I screwed two in the upper backing plate and two in the lower backing plate. I could the slide the hinges on these ā€œstudsā€ and easily screw on a couple of nuts to hold the door in place. So much easier than trying to hold the door in place while starting the hinge screws.
 
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Someone posted that they replaced the hinge shaft with a bolt so that once the door was properly in place, they could remove the bolt and leave the hinge screws alone.
 
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Hi Rob get yourself some threaded rod, same as the bolts, that way you can slot the door onto the threaded rod to help take the pressure off you. I used them along with a jack and some rag to save the paint on the bottom of the door. Some nuts would also be useful, but not essential. You do not need all the screws to help position the door and once you are happy throw the rest in.

Good luck

:cheers:

Bob
 
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Update, after a lot of head scratching i followed Vette's advice and made the holes slightly larger, this gave me some wiggle room and on the 30th attempt at adjusting i think i have the door fitting well now. I'm sure when i offer up the hood something may be out but i'm keen to get the car out this summer so will go with what i have for now.
Thanks for everyone's input, i think i may tap the hinge plate and put a bolt in as well, as suggested.
Annoyingly after not fitting right so so long and maybe me being impatient i now need to get the paint work touched up, so be it, at least we are moving forward.
IMG_4882.jpg
 
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vette said:
As said the difference is probably in the hinge. Since you are close I would willow out the holes in the hinge pillar to make them oval shaped or even a larger diameter of round. This will allow you to move the upper hinge plate outboard more. This is not an uncommon adjustment. The bolted up hinge will hid any irregularity. Use a narrow carbide burr to do the willowing you can push the threaded plate out of the way to do the work. A common practice to know where your plate and hinge should be after final adjustment and to ensure future alignment is to just drill to
1/8th inch holes thru the hinge, A-pillar and backing plate after you are satisfied with its final position. The 1/8th inch drill bits are then later used as alignment pins the next time you have to remove the hinge.
Click to expand...
Vette im after replacing the door hinge bolts on both sides to a hex head so i can tighten them up more, do you know what size they are at all ?
Rob
 
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Iā€™m sorry but I donā€™t have the bolt sizes.
 
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Those final lines look very good. Back when they were new, the gap differed a bit from car to car. I get irritated when today's "experts" claim that someones body panel fit is "off" because they don't line up like a new Mercedes. In my opinion, such cars are over-restored.
 
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