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TR2/3/3A Transmission Service TR-2

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I googled and taper pins are available from too many suppliers to list. This caught my eye, as they are super long tapers, so you can just insert until they lock and cut off the extra...so you don't have to know the exact size.

www.thechaingang.com

Arrow Style Insertion Tapers

Materials: 316L Surgical Steel Common Uses: Stretching and inserting new jewelry into the stretched piercing Dimensions: Gauge: 18 to 00 Gauge Sold Individually, the whole kit is cheaper than buying 2 Arrow Style Insertion Tapers are basic yet effective tools made for comfortable...
www.thechaingang.com www.thechaingang.com

Ace even sells the reamers:

General Steel T-Handle Reamer 1/8 - 1/2 in. 1 pc Mfr# 130 - Ace Hardware

The 130 T-handle reamer is ideal for removing burrs from cut pipe, tubing and conduit. It's also good for enlarging and counter-sinking holes in sheet metal, plastic and other materials.Find the REAMER1/8-1/2REPAIRMANS at Ace.
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com

Again, these are available from literally a hundred different suppliers. The only hard part is finding the right size.

Better yet...Here is the TRF site. CT10 is the pin you are looking for, part number 513888.


Now, they do not have it in stock, but it turns out that you can take the part number over to Revington and they DO have it in stock.

MILLS PIN

www.revingtontr.com
 
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I currently have a clean, even 7/64" hole through the lever and rod. I have a 7/64" tap I am think about running through the hole and installing a set screw through the lever and rod; rather then re-tapping a tapered hole for a pin. I think the screw will hold the lever and rod tight.

Dick
 
Redoakboo said:
I currently have a clean, even 7/64" hole through the lever and rod. I have a 7/64" tap I am think about running through the hole and installing a set screw through the lever and rod; rather then re-tapping a tapered hole for a pin. I think the screw will hold the lever and rod tight.

Dick
Click to expand...
David/John

Good News! I found a perfect tapered pin in my parts box! Further good news. I installed the new O.D. relay, put the car in 4th turned the key, pulled the O.D. switch and "CLACK" went the solenoid. Now I can put the gear box cover back on, that has been sitting on the shelf for 3 years!

Dick Thanks for all your help on these gearbox/O.D. problems.
 
Redoakboo said:
David/John

Good News! I found a perfect tapered pin in my parts box! Further good news. I installed the new O.D. relay, put the car in 4th turned the key, pulled the O.D. switch and "CLACK" went the solenoid. Now I can put the gear box cover back on, that has been sitting on the shelf for 3 years!

Dick Thanks for all your help on these gearbox/O.D. problems.
Click to expand...
 
Well Paddy hit the roads in my sub-division today, good news and not so good news. The engine ran fine, but I can't say the same for the transmission. Every other shift was a growl. I would be driving in 1st and want to come to a stop. It would not shift out of gear? I had to turn the key off or take out several of my neighbors mailboxes. Other times i would turn off the key and shut the engine off. I would put it in neutral, crank the engine and push in the clutch. With the clutch in, I could shift it into 1-4 without a growl. I would start off in 1st but when it was time to go into 2nd, GROWL !

Is there a clutch adjustment I need to know how to do? All the clutch parts are new and I feel I have installed them correctly.

Dick
 
Similar experience a few years ago, turned out to be failing clutch MC (TR3). Replaced with Moss part and to this day, all ok. Of course, complete fluid flush and thoroughly bled the system.

Jay
 
2002S2000 said:
Similar experience a few years ago, turned out to be failing clutch MC (TR3). Replaced with Moss part and to this day, all ok. Of course, complete fluid flush and thoroughly bled the system.

Jay
Click to expand...
Thanks,

The MC is new as is the slave cylinder and has been bled untold times? Think I will attack the slave cylinder adjustment, AGAIN!
 
Frustrating I bet. Mine exhibited another clue in that the fluid was not clean in appearance, I also replaced the reservoir, hydraulic lines adjacent to the cylinders and the brake MC at the same time as clutch MC. The clutch slave had been replaced a few months before by PO/shop. You'll find it!

Jay
 
David/John

Engine ran fine but transmission is definitely out of adjustment somewhere. MC adjustment is .030 but not sure about the slave cylinder. Where is the .079 adjustment taken?Please give me a step by step to make this adjustment.
I started out in 1st O.K. but when I tried to stop, put on the brakes it would not shift out of 1st. Had to turn the key off before I hit my mailbox. Grinds when you try to put it in to reverse? I stopped and then started it in neutral , I could easily shift into all forward gears, with the clutch in. I put it in 1st and drove down the road. Did not want to shift out of 1st again, with the clutch in?

I am going to check for air again.

Dick
 
Redoakboo said:
David/John

Engine ran fine but transmission is definitely out of adjustment somewhere. MC adjustment is .030 but not sure about the slave cylinder. Where is the .079 adjustment taken?Please give me a step by step to make this adjustment.
I started out in 1st O.K. but when I tried to stop, put on the brakes it would not shift out of 1st. Had to turn the key off before I hit my mailbox. Grinds when you try to put it in to reverse? I stopped and then started it in neutral , I could easily shift into all forward gears, with the clutch in. I put it in 1st and drove down the road. Did not want to shift out of 1st again, with the clutch in?

I am going to check for air again.

Dick
Click to expand...
David John,

I have reached the Peter principle on the transmssion in Paddy. The slave cylinder seems to be adjusted correctly the rod goes back and forth the proper length. If I put it into any gear and start the car it runs fine; in that gear. But, when I try to shift into any gear, it grinds.I can pump the clutch several times, still grinds.I see no leaks?

Dick
 
What is the history on the clutch? You could have a warped disc or pressure plate that doesn't fully release.
 
The problem is easy...your clutch is not fully releasing. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend a solution that you have not tried. The usual culprits would be a mis-adjustment or bleeding. If you are sure those were absolutely done properly, then you must have a bad repro part somewhere.
 
CJD said:
The problem is easy...your clutch is not fully releasing. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend a solution that you have not tried. The usual culprits would be a mis-adjustment or bleeding. If you are sure those were absolutely done properly, then you must have a bad repro part somewhere.
Click to expand...
John. I know you are a Brit Forum expert and I thought I knew how to Post a new question but, apparently not.
I am trying to post a new question but I obviously don't remember how? I would like to ask if anyone had some surplus TR-2 Hardtop Hardware they would like to sell. If you could please make a post for me, maybe I might remember how to do it.
I know how to correspond back and forth, like i do with you and David, but that's about all I can do.

Dick
 
On the top right of the page that lists all the forum topics, there is a orangish button to start a new thread labelled "post thread". Hit the button and it will take you to a new page to insert your title and then list your question below. Hit the save button and the new thread gets posted.
 
Redoakboo said:
David John,

I have reached the Peter principle on the transmssion in Paddy. The slave cylinder seems to be adjusted correctly the rod goes back and forth the proper length. If I put it into any gear and start the car it runs fine; in that gear. But, when I try to shift into any gear, it grinds.I can pump the clutch several times, still grinds.I see no leaks?

Dick
Click to expand...
David/John,

It is running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had a friend come over and we discovered we have been turning the =slave rod the wrong way. We followed some of the instructions and turned the rod about 1/2" outward. I can now drive it, no grinds, alittle in reverse. I still need your help as the clutch is engaging, but right at the top of the pedal. I need to adjust something to get it to engage closer to the floor. Any suggestions Guru's?

Dick
 
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