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TR6 Bad Luck?

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pdplot

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Bad things come in 3's. I hit the Trifecta today. Wanted to mow the lawn - grass got high, but had to move the Triumph.
1. TR6 battery was very weak and died. 6 years old.
2. Lawn tractor battery went dead. 3 years old.
3. Got the TR started with charger attached and drove down to AutoZone. Almost there it happened. Car started missing and wouldn't rev over 2500 rpm or so. I limped to AZ, had the guy install the battery, purchased a tractor battery (they had one) and headed for home. The car stalled at every light, would not idle, would not rev without cutting out and I wondered if this would be the first time in over 20 years that it would leave me stranded. To top it off, I left my cellphone at home. Somehow, it didn't fail me and I made it home just before the rain. What could it be? I first checked the points and they were almost closed so I adjusted them to .015 - no difference. I changed the coil - I carry 2 spares - no difference. I checked the dashpot oil. Down a bit, so I refilled - no difference. Than the rains came. I moved the Subaru out and the TR in. Before I start in again, am I missing something obvious? The condenser is fairly new so I didn't swap it out yet. Fuel pump? Doubtful. They either work or they don't in my experience.
 
Don't know. I'll check it with a VOM. It should measure at least 12.6 at rest and almost 14 or so when charging.
How would that limit the revs on a carbureted engine with points ignition?
I'll also disconnect the battery and charge it overnight.
 
There is a guy on another forum having similar issues.

Car cutting out - 6-Pack Car Club of the Americas

Took the TR out today to visit friends. Ran great outbound. Ran good coming home but died at every stop sign or stop light. Started right up but continued to die at every stop. Any ideas where to start looking. Thanks, John Z
forums.6-pack.org
 
12.75. I'll stick the charger on it after dinner to charge overnight to bring it up to almost 13 volts at rest. I also checked the vacuum line between the rear carb and the distributor. Seems ok.
 
Again - what would the battery voltage have to do with anything but starting the car? I don't have electronic ignition or an electric fuel pump. As I recall from my old Ford days, you could remove the battery from the car and it would keep running perfectly. Am I missing something?
 
You have CD 175 carbs pull the top of the carbs off your diaphragm may have gone bad and have a hole they only last a few years with todays gas. I carry two and change as needed or on all tune ups. Check carefully and they have a key notch and only go one way. It happened to me just as you said now I always have a set.

Madflyer
 
Pic this was mine this year
 

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Never thought of that. These carbs have been untouched for years. Never had any problem. Will check the diaphragms in the am. I recall they only go one way. Wouldn't that affect low rpm too? SUs didn't have them.
Battery voltage now 13.16 without the charger, 13.45 with it connected. Only a 25-amp charger bought at Sears many years ago. I'll also charge the tractor battery next. Strange they both went the same time. Murphy's Law again...
 
I'm surprised no one suggested a bad ignition capacitor. I'd suggest trying a new one, but the new ones aren't very good, either. At least, if it works, it will identify the problem. But it probably won't work very long.
 
pdplot said:
Never thought of that. These carbs have been untouched for years. Never had any problem. Will check the diaphragms in the am. I recall they only go one way. Wouldn't that affect low rpm too? SUs didn't have them.
Battery voltage now 13.16 without the charger, 13.45 with it connected. Only a 25-amp charger bought at Sears many years ago. I'll also charge the tractor battery next. Strange they both went the same time. Murphy's Law again...
Click to expand...
Usually it's acceleration that's most affected when there's a rip in the diaphragm. That's not saying you would not notice a change in idle though.
 
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Fuel - can't recall. Maybe November, but was stabilized and drygas as always. Never had any trouble before even when car sat for 4 or 5 months. If fuel was bad, it would have shown before now I would think and it started and ran perfectly each time I started and ran the engine all winter long. It only started missing suddenly about 15 minutes into the trip to AutoZone and persisted so far.
 
OK. Problem identified but cure unknown. Carb rubber "skirts" ok. Pistons move up and down freely. Ignition checks out ok. Disconnected the 6 plug wires but left them loose and one by one (with insulated pliers!) pulled them loose. Car would not idle except with "choke" on first notch, and when I pulled off the wires one by one, the first 3 cylinders died but the last 3 cylinders made no difference in idle speed. Running at 1500 rpm, lifting the carb pistons revealed that the front carb almost stalled out when lifted but lifting the back piston made no difference whatsoever. Engine continued to run at 1500 rpm but with a strange sound like all 6 were not in synch. Diagnosis - back carb either flooding out or starving for fuel, and the condition started suddenly while driving normally. What's the next step? Joe Curto?
 
Pull the plug out at the bottom of the carbs drain fuel a small screw driver will pop it out you may also have a stuck float.
 
poolboy said:
Usually it's acceleration that's most affected when there's a rip in the diaphragm.
Click to expand...

pdplot said:
OK. Problem identified but cure unknown. Carb rubber "skirts" ok. Pistons move up and down freely. Ignition checks out ok. Disconnected the 6 plug wires but left them loose and one by one (with insulated pliers!) pulled them loose. Car would not idle except with "choke" on first notch, and when I pulled off the wires one by one, the first 3 cylinders died but the last 3 cylinders made no difference in idle speed. Running at 1500 rpm, lifting the carb pistons revealed that the front carb almost stalled out when lifted but lifting the back piston made no difference whatsoever. Engine continued to run at 1500 rpm but with a strange sound like all 6 were not in synch. Diagnosis - back carb either flooding out or starving for fuel, and the condition started suddenly while driving normally. What's the next step? Joe Curto?
Click to expand...
Joe is fine, but if his turnaround is longer than you'd like, send me an email...my address is below.
 
I once had a stuck float on the front carb. Fuel was overflowing. I rapped it a couple of times with a large wooden-handled screwdriver and it cured the problem. I'll try that trick first before dismantling the carb. I never like to fool with these things. No fuel is overflowing here.
 
Bottom of back carb was damp. Rapped it a few times and it dried and remained dry. Pulled the back 3 plugs - they appeared to be gas-fouled, so I cleaned and wire-brushed them on my bench motor & reinstalled. No difference. Car will not idle and won't start without pulling the choke out all the way. At rest, it will rev up to 4K and probably beyond but it may not pull up the steep hills we have here under load. Roads are wet so I won't take it out of the garage until it dries off. This thing has never been driven in the rain since I've owned it. In all the 67 years I've been messing with these cars I've never dismantled or rebuilt an SU or Stromberg. Just took them on and off when necessary.
 
Ken - a couple of years ago, you advised someone who was having the same symptoms - running off the front carb only - to pull off the fuel line (I assume plug it as well), run the back carb dry and spray solvent into the inlet nipple while tapping on the float housing. Since I dread having to remove the carb due to the location of the 4 nuts holding the carb on, I intend to try it if you think it might do the trick. Like chicken soup, it can't hurt I suppose. I have PB Blaster and WD 40 complete with red straws. I hope it works.
 
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