BJ8 Choke Cable- How to tighten the nut behind the dash?

[SteveHall64Healey]

I’ve replaced the choke cable in my BJ8, with the hardest part being the tightening of the nut behind the dash, such that the cable assembly does not rotate when the lock mechanism is engaged. After a month’s use, it has come loose.

I’m tempted to use thread locker, but that might have unwanted consequences down the road. Does anyone have a method for getting the nut really tight without removing the dashboard itself? Thought I might try getting the nut really tight before resorting to thread locker....

thanks
steve

 

[tahoe healey]

I have the exact same problem. I was thinking of using a lock "star" washer but didn't want to pull the entire cable to do it. I think I could cut the washer to facilitate getting on but I haven't tried it yet. I am looking for a better solution if one is available. Gorilla glue on the front side of the beautiful wood dash has been suggested but I would have to loosen the nut in back to get the glue behind the front circular plate and if I were to do that I may as well just tighten the crap out of nut behind the dash.

 

[John Turney]

... I may as well just tighten the crap out of nut behind the dash.

I would worry that that much tightening would crack the finish or wood.

I would use the green threadlocker. Instead of applying it first and then tightening, it's applied after tightening, and soaks into the threads. It's useful for locking carb settings, and isn't too hard to undo.

 

[British_Recovery]

Get a cheap, off-set box wrench. Cut a slit in the end so that it goes around the cable.
grind away the areas of the wrench that hit the wood, if necessary. Similar concept to removing the temperature sensor near the thermostat.
Bob

 

[tahoe healey]

Any idea the size of the "nut" behind the dash?

 

[SteveHall64Healey]

It’s 3/4” nut behind the dash. I took a cheap, long 3/4” socket and cut a 1/4” slot in the side a coupe of days ago. Will remove the tach and see if it works today....

 

[SteveHall64Healey]

I tried using the 3/4” deep socket with a slot cut in the side. Unfortunately the clearance between the nut and the surrounding wood is so little that I could not get the socket to engage the nut even with the end of the socket ground down to a minimal diameter.

However, I was able to use that minimal clearance to advantage with the 90 degree pick in the attached photo. With the tachometer removed, I placed the pick between the nut and the surrounding wood and pulled firmly down, rotating the nut. Will see how long this stays in place. If not successful will undo the nut and add thread locker and repeat.