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TR2/3/3A Side screen location.

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DavidApp

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Getting ready to have my side screens recovered. Having seen a pair of side screens recovered by TRF. I realized what mine are missing. They have no covering on the window frame. Have I set the frame too far forward on the door? Want to get that correct before I send them off to TRF.

David

Side screen resized.jpg
 
I cannot tell by the pics David, but the side curtain looks too low. I had this really cool old tr guy show once how he did his curtains. He would mount the brackets to the curtain then get best fit he could by holding the curtain in place then trace out the bracket onto the door panel and then fasten the bracket down. The brackets usually have an up or down slotted screw hole for up and down, so start in the middle of the slot. For tipping them back and forth, a little bit movement on the bracket can make a lot of movement on the curtain. He also told to me plug the old holes with wooden dowels and re-drill everything, but I believe your car is metal. If you have a hard top, the side curtains will sit about an inch lower.
 
Thank you.

At the moment I am completely missing the covering material on the side screen window frame. That is what is making me concerned that I may be off. Coming up may help as I am very tight between the body above the door and the front bottom edge of the screen.

David
 
As Steve wrote, you may be a bit low. The "missing" material is simply a thick fold of material that extends out from the inside edge of the frame about 3/8 to 1/2", depending on how TRF finishes it. Here are the things you are looking for while fitting:

1) The forward rail of the frame must be parallel to the windscreen post, and leave about 1/2" measured from the frame into and fully forward within the slot in the windscreen post. This is the MOST important measurement during the fitting, as that material fitting into the slot stops water from blowing directly in your face.

2) The top rail of your frame must reach above the material flap hanging down on the inside of your top. It must reach the flap, but cannot go any higher than the edge of the outer top material. Parallel is best, but not at the cost of losing your forward frame rail alignment. Closer to the outside top material is also better for sealing.

3) Ensure the rear rail also lies on top of the inner top material flap. This is the least important fit...but it still must overlap the inner top flap material.

If you study the windscreen post and top material, you will see how they designed a sealing flap to capture the "missing" tab on your sidescreen. Once you understand how the seal works, you can best align the frame to optimize sealing. Remember, the priority is front, then top, and finally rear fit.

The frame will be fit at TRF to match the acetate windows, so they may alter the angle of the frame slightly. This means you may have to adjust the fit after the rebuild, but if you fit the brackets with a bare frame, it should be close enough to adjust later.

It's a fun time when you get to this stage!
 
Hello John

Thank you. I should have pulled up your old thread on side screens.

I did get new TRF windows but could not see what held the front section in place. Albert said that it was sown in but as I had no covering on the frame I could not understand what he was refering to. At a show another TR3 had new side screens so I could see Albert meant.

I intend to get my side screens off to TRF shortly.
 
Great...if you already have the window acetate you can use that to make sure the angles on the frame are correct. The window plastic will dictate the final angle of the front rail of the frame.

If you read my sidescreen thread you likely saw that I actually cut and welded the rear frame to get the best angle at the top and rear of the window opening. The TR2 uses a flimsy vinyl window, while your car will use the hard acetate. The hard acetate will drive your frame angles all around.
 
Started working on getting the drivers side side curtain fitted. I removed the covering on the bottom frame so I could get a better idea of where to grip it to make adjustments. At the moment I have a couple of screws holding the Dzus fasteners.
The front edge of the frame is parallel to the stanchion and there is 1/2" between the leading edge of the frame and the edge of the slot in the Stanchion.

About how much material sticks out around the front and top edge of the window frame?

David

Drivers side side curtain sketch.jpg
Drivers side side curtain 2.jpg
Drivers side side curtain.jpg
 
David I put my curtains into the notch between frame the stanchion and not behind the stanchion where it would be inside the car. The thickness at the end is not much just thickness of the material and a sewn seam there; the sown seem fits into the notch. I think that is where they go, so in my view you need to go forward about ½ and up some maybe another ½ . Do you have a hard top?
steve
 
David,
My suggestion is that you wait until you get the new curtains and only then will you know how much material is both above the frames next to the top and how much is in front of the frame next to the stanchions.
Second I note from the photos that your rear bracket is wrong. The brackets are a mismatched pair. The front one slopes to the rear and the rear one slopes to the front.
 
Hello Charley

Thanks for that tip on the bracket. I will fix that as soon as I get off the computer.

My main reason for fitting them before I have them recovered is I am not sure if the frames need adjustment. My thinking is it is easier to do any bending needed on a naked frame.

David
 
I agree that it is best to do any bending prior to getting the frames covered. The bending that would be needed would likely be to make the window frame fit the opening. Meaning most of that is to bend the frame in toward the car or out of the car. That mostly has to do with the arms that go down into the brackets.
 
Hello Charley

Swooped the brackets and it looks much better. I noticed on my old door trim there is a cutout in the trim for the Dzus fastener. I need to make those cuts.

Albert said there is about 1/2" of fabric in front of the frame so I am about correct with the position on the drivers side.

David
 
Excellent alignment in the pics. The material will add about 3/8" to 1/2", and will likely vary just lightly within that range since the sewing is done by hand. Just looking at the pics, it looks like you could move the frame upward about 1/8 to 1/4", and the same forward, although moving up will account for most of the forward movement too.
 
Having bitten the bullet and removed the covering it is a bit easier to get the frames adjusted. I am only using 2 screws in each bracket at the moment till I get the location finalized.
Any thoughts on packing the frames for shipping to TRF. Had considered making a box to protect them from shipping damage.
Also paint before sending them off?

David
 
David,
you should check with TRF to see if they paint them. I suspect that they do.
Box them to protect them.
 
I will probable sand blast them my self as Albert said that they usually wait till they have several sets before they send them out. Need a bag of medium.

Box making in the morning.

David
 
I had a similar alignment and found I had put the brackets in the wrong places (#2 was in #4 spot, etc)once corrected they were parallel again. mine are wedge type but the principle should be the same.
charleyf said:
David,
My suggestion is that you wait until you get the new curtains and only then will you know how much material is both above the frames next to the top and how much is in front of the frame next to the stanchions.
Second I note from the photos that your rear bracket is wrong. The brackets are a mismatched pair. The front one slopes to the rear and the rear one slopes to the front.
Click to expand...
 
Appreciate this thread. I have this ahead of me and have gained a lot from y’all’s discussion.
thanks Charlie and David
 
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