• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Engine Oil Pressure

BobbyO

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
Attempting to start a 20+ year old engine rebuild. Turned it over with the started without plugs and that generated two questions. First, should the engine being turned with the started be enough to cause an indication on the oil pressure gauge? And, secondly, should the engine being turned by the started cause oil splash on the rockers and push rods? I'm concerned about both the oil pump and the oil pressure gauge.
 
It should be able to build oil pressure, but takes a surprisingly long time. I didn't time it, but I'd guess a couple of minutes starting with an empty oil filter. Probably smarter to remove the distributor and drive the pump with a drill motor.

Oil to the rockers takes much longer than that, I wouldn't try that on just the starter. The starter motor is a very limited-duty design and does not have enough cooling for prolonged operation. You also won't see much 'splash' at cranking speeds, at best the oil just oozes from the holes on top of the rockers.
 
Yes on both accounts. Maybe not so much at the rockers, but your oil pressure should be showing on the gauge ,
 
Of course Randell beat me to it and with a better explanation
 
And...on this motor the distributor sits in the oil gallery, so spinning the pump with a drill primes the pump, but the oil flows straight out of the distributor mount hole back into the sump. So, unless you fashion an adapter out of an old distributor pedestal, you cannot build any pressure with the distributor out and spinning the pump...
 
Thanks to all. I'll wait until I get my fuel and spark problem solved. Have fuel pump apart and it was totally corroded. Time for a new one or rebuild. Did find an oil leak in the line to the gauge so some pumping is occurring. It seems, in my case, if it's a fluid and can leak it will leak no matter how much I attempt to tighten everything. I know I had tightened the oil line where the leak occurred. More of the same I guess. Again, thanks!
 
After a rebuild or any long sit - when I refill the oil I remove the valve cover and pour one of the quarts over the rockers.

It has been my experience too that it takes awhile to see the pressure on the gauge when cranking the engine first time. Nervous moments that possibly seem even linger than they are. I don't think it has to be all one long crank - seems to get there with crank some - rest - crank some more. Maybe 3 spells or so to get gauge to move.
 
And...on this motor the distributor sits in the oil gallery, so spinning the pump with a drill primes the pump, but the oil flows straight out of the distributor mount hole back into the sump. So, unless you fashion an adapter out of an old distributor pedestal, you cannot build any pressure with the distributor out and spinning the pump...
All you need is to use a shaft the same diameter as the original, 1/2" IIRC. The base of the distributor (and the base of the pedestal) is open to the crankcase, so the seal between the shaft and the bushing is what is important, even with the engine running.
 
Back
Top