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Gauge and Switch Mounting Bracket

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Duane_Rhynard

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I'm finishing installing some factory options on my BN6, (an original Smiths ammeter, L494 reverse light, and SFT 576 fog lamps.) and had to have a mounting bracket made to mount the gauge and the switches. It turned out that the shop liked my design and decided to offer the bracket as a regular product (No interest, just a happy customer).

I thought there might be some interest on the Forum. Link: https://www.cubbypods.com/#!universal/cdvt

Thanks,
Duane
'58 BN6





Amps Bracket (3).jpg




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Good job Duane! Do the centers of those switches illuminate, as I could certainly see leaving the reversing lamps on for extended periods?

I'm pretty sure that the sideshift xmsn cover has a provision for a reverse lamp switch, if you wanted to incorporate that into your car.

Compare this later sideshift cover, with the additional plug...

IMG_0651.jpg


... to this one on my car:

IMG_7389.jpg


I mean, what else could it be for (the two__2__plugs on the opposite side were for the column-change linkage used in the sedans)?
 
Randy,

Thanks for posting on the internal switch location. Very interesting idea!!

I'm keeping my car as close to original as practical for me, so I decided to go with the original switch arrangement.

Yes, the centers of the switches do illuminate when the switch is on. I've replaced the regular incandescent bulbs with LED's for longevity and to reduce the heat.

I’m also going to install a backup beeper and tie it in with the same switch as the Lucas L494 reversing light, I have a backup beeper on my sprinter van and it’s really effective.

Thanks,
Duane
 
Thanks for posting the Healey Car Sales option list. I'd be interested to see the "wind up aerial with control on scuttle"!
 
My 100M came with a homemade dash cut from a piece of laminated countertop (don't think that was an original option!!!) with a Smith's Ammeter. Luckily, the previous owner later found the original dash in his parts pile. It had holes cut for an additional gauge and two switches but he patched those over when he refinished the dash. This pod will be a perfect option for re-installing the Ammeter and giving a location for fog lamp switch. Thanks for posting. Already ordered.
IMG_0476.jpg
 
I just want to cry when I see how much the fog lights are as an option compared to what you have to pay to get a real set on flea bay these days !!!!!
 
Duane--

Did you use a shun to avoid carrying heavy wires to the ammeter?
 
Michael Oritt said:
Duane--

Did you use a shun to avoid carrying heavy wires to the ammeter?
Click to expand...

Michael,

The original Smiths ammeters have the internal shunt system, so properly fused 10G wires with the correct type of wire insulation and protective shield have to be connected directly to the meter. I know some people think that ammeters are inherently dangerous (Previous threads), but properly installed, fused, (Not commonly done) and maintained, ammeters are perfectly safe and reliable. I would have also installed a voltmeter if it had been a factory option!!

Thanks,
Duane (BSEE)
 
Tproject said:
Can you tell me where you found the retro switches?
Click to expand...

They are original Lucas 56SA switches originally used for reverse, fog, and spot light control.

Originals and reproductions can be found on EBay and several other sources. I replaced the incandescent indicator bulbs with LEDS, very happy with the results.

Thanks,
Duane


a13.JPG
 
Duane--

Though I understand your desire for originality sometimes it is trumped by safety. A friend of mine's Ferrari Dino 264 had a major fire due to as short in the ammeter wires as they passed through the firewall.

I know the common wisdom is that cars with generators should have ammeters and those with alternators should have voltmeters but I must wonder about the logic behind this, as bottomline it is system voltage that starts the car versus the momentary state of things as indicated by an ammeter.

BTW Hagerty's paid something over $100K for the repairs to my friend's Dino but he lost the use of the car for over a year while a new wiring loom was painstakingly made by a trusted source in Italy.
 
Michael Oritt said:
... I know the common wisdom is that cars with generators should have ammeters and those with alternators should have voltmeters but I must wonder about the logic behind this, as bottomline it is system voltage that starts the car versus the momentary state of things as indicated by an ammeter.
Click to expand...

I think an ammeter is good for spotting 'trends;' i.e. if it starts taking longer and longer to go from discharge to charging after starting--allowing for the difficulty in cranking--that could be an indication of a potentially failing generator. I don't know the logic behind 'generators should have ammeters and those with alternators should have voltmeters;' I think both are useful.

I have a Smith's ammeter I've never installed over the short/fire concern.
 
Michael Oritt said:
Duane--

Though I understand your desire for originality sometimes it is trumped by safety. A friend of mine's Ferrari Dino 264 had a major fire due to as short in the ammeter wires as they passed through the firewall.

I know the common wisdom is that cars with generators should have ammeters and those with alternators should have voltmeters but I must wonder about the logic behind this, as bottomline it is system voltage that starts the car versus the momentary state of things as indicated by an ammeter.

BTW Hagerty's paid something over $100K for the repairs to my friend's Dino but he lost the use of the car for over a year while a new wiring loom was painstakingly made by a trusted source in Italy.
Click to expand...


Michael,

I understand your concerns, but I am definitely not compromising safety for originality!!! Correctly engineered and maintained, you can have both! As I said earlier, a properly installed, fused, (Not commonly done) and maintained meter is perfectly safe. I feel for your Ferrari friend, but had he correctly fused the system the shorted wire at fire wall would have only resulted in simply a blown fuse and not a fire. Unfortunately fused systems were not installed at the factory, but we've learned allot about safety over the years.

Additionally, proper maintenance is just as important. Critical systems need to be inspected and maintained in order to maintain safety. Just as you would not drive around with a leak in your petrol tank, you should not drive around with poor ammeter wiring! (As your unfortunate Ferrari friend obviously found out the hard way.)

If a person is not comfortable with electrical systems and cannot inspect and maintain an unfused ammeter system, they should definitely not have or install one!

Thanks,
Duane (BSEE)

Edit: A properly installed fused ammeter system is safe for all Healey owners and almost everybody else! Second Edit: Added the word "unfused".
 
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