TR4/4A Thrust washer issue

Ok I did some more work and made more sure the digital dial was as straight to the line of the crankshaft as I could get it. The flexible link on the magnectic base makes that harder than it sounds. Then I did try some more simply pulling by hand instead of using the block of wood and a hammer. So depending on how hard I pull I can get up to a .010 difference. I'm confused. How hard should I be pulling?

I move the crank fore and aft with a screwdriver against a throw. I measure with a feeler gauge. What numbers do you get with that?.
Bob

Feeler gauge is correct way of measuring.

If you end up with .007, that should be just fine....not to worry.
Scott in CA

I guess this is a learning experience. I determined that by tapping with a block of wood and a hammer and also "jerking" the crank must have been producing some bounce back and giving inconsistant answers. When I measured before the machine shop trip I did it using feeler gauges but it seemed I could feel the crank move (because of used parts?) so I felt confident in my measurement. I felt that more accurate measurements would be obtained by a dial indicator so I did purchase one. So i put the +.005 washers on the rear position and std on the front snugged the main cap bolts, worked the crank in rotation some and them placed the palms of my hands against the front of the block and pulled with my fingers against the "front flange" of the crank. By doing this I did get consistant readings at .004 and I am going to go with that. Boy just started and already making life or death decisions. So no tapping or jerks just steady pull in my case. Thanks for your answers Bruce

All the way through the build you will be questioning yourself about is this OK or should I ......

Have you flushed out the oil galleries and confirmed the cam shaft bearing oil passages are clear? Shops have been known to get the cam bearings in wrong. I did not seal up the front oil gallery plug sufficiently and ended up with an oil leak that required the engine removal.

Ask questions here if you have doubts. I am sure someone will be able to help or confirm that everything is OK the way you are going.

David

Bob - I did it with your method of using a large screwdriver to push/pull the crank and ended up getting .005 (Yeah perfect). David - I stuck a wire thru the passages to the cam bearing to make sure they went thru the openings in the cam bearing and they did. The small cam bearing second from the rear apparently does not have a oil galley????? While responding to this I would like some advice on the rear main bearing cap. My gasket set (Payen) did not come with the segmented felt side seals so should I cut it into segments as I have seen elsewhere? The shop manual and Haynes are not clear on this. Do I still need to drive (compress) this gasket in or just slather on the sealer and lay it into place? I have Hylomar. Permatex Blue and Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant. If I have to drive it in it seems the High Tack would work best as it is more fluid. So do I cut it into segments and what sealer? Sorry I have no one else that I know local to ask. I know this is real basic. Bruce

If you have the Haynes shop manual, it gives good instructions on the sealing process. If you don't have it, you should.
Bob

I do have it but did not see instructions on that - I am going to look now.

Bob I am using the shop manual and Haynes and a couple of others. I am trying to go step by step and the instructions for that are later than I am in the book. I assumed it would be in the section I am in as it covers the center cap. Sorry

Make sure you have plenty of the felt. I ended coming up short with what was supplied with my gasket set.