Checking the thrust washers.....Dale?

[2wrench]

Ole Tinster, came accross this pic I meant to post. Had you
in mind.

Dial gauge magnetically stuck to block; dial set to zero to read forward thrust on the crank shaft (push on clutch??)

Your crank will have a fan and damper/pulley on the end, but that doesn't matter. The gauge sticks to all metal.

Set to zero and push crank (via clutch??) If I remember right, within specs at movment of between .004 to .008 We'll probably get some help from more experienced wrenches on the Forum, I hope.

Sorry if this is not so timely as I know you're up to your
eyebrows in heat shields and fuel filters, but it was right
in front of me so I grabbed it.

And by the way, Dale, for crying out loud....don't burn
nor even joke about it. It's not such a hot deal.

Here's the picture:

 

[Brosky]

Don't make that too tight. TR6 manual says .006" - .008" float.

 

[2wrench]

Don't make that too tight. TR6 manual says .006" - .008" float.

Thanks, Paul. You da man.

 

[70herald]

It is worth noting that the engine does NOT have to come apart to check this! Dale don't go pulling off the front cover. Just put the indicator pointer on the pulley, and the magnetic base on the front cover.

If the engine is in the car, you need to push the crank back first (Push the pulley in the direction of the engine), set the indicator to 0 and then have someone push the clutch in.

repeat several times, also pulley is a bit rough so make sure that indicator reading is a result of the crank shaft movement, and not the a rough spot on the pulley surface.

Also if you are working on a rebuild or replacing the thrust washers, aim for the low end of the spec. Triumphs spec limits are kind of loose. If the engine is running, there should be no problem somewhat over spec, however if this is the case, it should be rechecked every few thousand miles.