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Up-date/ questions on my original preserved BN1

britlover

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Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Well, I drove the car home yesterday on its 60 year old Dunlop tires! The only disappointment: non functioning overdrive. My first thought is to drain the gearbox and clean the filter, check electrical solenoid operation... anything else I should look for specifically? Other than the non-op OD, the car drove like a brand new one. The previous owner replaced all of the hydraulics 10 years ago, and the only issues seems to be a slightly dragging right rear brake.

Other questions: I want to keep the car as original as humanly possible, but I also want to drive it a little... I need to get some fresh tires, but I'm considering leaving the originals on the original wheels, and buying an extra set of wire wheels to use for driving. I think it is so cool to be able to say its on its original tires... or am I being silly? Should I just replace the tires?

Also, I got a brand new falcon exhaust system with the car that the PO bought 10 years ago.... the car's original exhaust seems OK, but covered in surface rust and has a small pin hole in the muffler that doesn't affect the sound appreciably. The front and middle hangars need to be replaced though as the rubber has separated from the steel. Question: put the new one on? or salvage the original with new hangars and leave as-is? Would a shiny new exhaust system negatively affect the car's originality scores?

What's the best way to clean a 60 year old tonneau cover? I was thinking of starting with a mixture of warm soap and water, but maybe there is a good product out there?

When I got the car home, I immediately put it on my lift to inspect the underside... and I have to report that it is unbelievably perfect. Most of the original green paint is still visible under a thin coating of grime and dust. No rust anywhere to be seen. I can't believe this car spent its 60 years in the Midwest. I'll post some pics of the underside later.
 

BigGreen

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

For the overdrive, put a fuse in

For the tyres; think safety, it might look good but your life is worth more than the looks of your car
at least change the inner tubes ...

Why not just save the exhaust as a spare, clean the present one and weld the hole

For the tonneau; try to find a Poorboys world reseller and get their Natural Look. It cleans and protects.
it may sound stupid, but use it on the dirty tonneau and let it soften the dirt before touching the tonneau firm
Natural soap might be oke, but the material can be brittle and the Natural Look is a dressing that makes the material softer. Use a microfiber cloth to apply and take the residue of

if you can't find the Poorboys, look for Autoglym vinyl and rubber care ore something from Mothers Wax

And don't forget the pictures ;-))
 

simon1966

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

I think everyone should refuse to answer questions until pictures are posted :devilgrin:
 

AH100M

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

A shiny new exhaust system should properly be painted black anyway so it won't be shiny...
 

HealeyRick

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

If it were mine (wouldst that it were) I'd want to have the car judged by the Austin Healey Concours Committee before making any changes to it. Take off the original wheels and tires and store them some place cool and dark and use them only for concours display (don't drive on 60 yr old tires). Buy some new radials and wire wheels already mounted and balanced from hendrixwirewheel.com. Somebody here with a 100 can recommend the best driving combination. Get a copy of the Concours Guidelines and the Anderson/Moment restoration guide(ebook available for downloading here for $15: https://books.google.com/books?id=k...ownload anderson moment austin healey&f=false) and see where, if anywhere your car doesn't match up. Don't necessarily change something that doesn't match the guidelines if it looks original on your car, maybe the guidelines are incorrect, it's happened before. The AHCA Concours Liaison is Broce Gearns at 2387 Black Eagle Rd, Howell, Michigan 58843 Phone (313)563-5691 or Email bgearns@yahoo.com and he may be of some assistance to you. Don't be afraid of the term "concours" as it's still possible to have a gold level concours car and use it as a driver. Take lots of pictures of your car, the originality folks will love you for it.

 

John Turney

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Definitely get new tires and wheel! Having an old tire blow out can severely damage bodywork, yours as well as the car's.

i agree with not changing anything until the concours folks look at it. After they do, you can replace the exhaust hangers with correct ones.

Most OD problems are electric, and a fuse is a good idea. You may have a poor connection.
 
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britlover

britlover

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Is there a separate fuse for the OD? it appears that there are only 2 fuses? One item that I plan to look into is an OD relay of some kind on the firewall next to the fuse box... has some seriously crusty looking wires going to it that have been "cooked" over the years by the exhaust manifold only inches away. They are so stiff/ crumbly I'm afraid to touch them.

That Concours Liason guy doesn't live far from me. I'll contact him for assistance. Can anyone recommend a good replacement tire close to original spec? Again, thanks for all the help.
 

Legal Bill

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Broken exhaust hangers will lead to broken exhaust system, so I'd instal new hangers. If they look different from the old hangers, hang on to the old ones. You may be able to fashion something that looks a lot like them. You can weld up exhaust holes, but be careful as you can also melt more of the system away if the metal is real thin. The Vrederstein tires look very original. I'd call Hendrix and get his opinions. You can find a good set of used wheels if you look around for them. I would keep the original wheels and tires in the basement if I were you. Give them a good cleaning and then wrap them up in garbage bags and seal them up. Don't keep brittle wires in service. A short circuit could ruin your whole day. I don't know if you can replace only the bad wires and keep the integrity of the harness. I'd have someone look at that with you.
 

stuntflyr

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

If it were mine (wouldst that it were) I'd want to have the car judged by the Austin Healey Concours Committee before making any changes to it. Take off the original wheels and tires and store them some place cool and dark and use them only for concours display (don't drive on 60 yr old tires). Buy some new radials and wire wheels already mounted and balanced from hendrixwirewheel.com. Somebody here with a 100 can recommend the best driving combination. Get a copy of the Concours Guidelines and the Anderson/Moment restoration guide(ebook available for downloading here for $15: https://books.google.com/books?id=k...ownload anderson moment austin healey&f=false) and see where, if anywhere your car doesn't match up. Don't necessarily change something that doesn't match the guidelines if it looks original on your car, maybe the guidelines are incorrect, it's happened before. The AHCA Concours Liaison is Broce Gearns at 2387 Black Eagle Rd, Howell, Michigan 58843 Phone (313)563-5691 or Email bgearns@yahoo.com and he may be of some assistance to you. Don't be afraid of the term "concours" as it's still possible to have a gold level concours car and use it as a driver. Take lots of pictures of your car, the originality folks will love you for it.


So true about the driving of Concours competitors. My father's SIII E-Type was always driven to the shows and it won 5 JCNA National Championships.
Chris...
 

TimK

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Is there a separate fuse for the OD? it appears that there are only 2 fuses? One item that I plan to look into is an OD relay of some kind on the firewall next to the fuse box... has some seriously crusty looking wires going to it that have been "cooked" over the years by the exhaust manifold only inches away. They are so stiff/ crumbly I'm afraid to touch them.
.
The OD is not fused. I added an inline fuse on the wire to the solenoid. I solved my intermittent drop out of the OD by opening the side panel and cleaning out the sludge in the accumulator. Since yours is not working at all, I'd start with checking the solenoid operation. Actually, first, take off the trans cover and operate the OD lever on the right side manually, while driving, to see if the OD engages. If so, then it is the solenoid and or the adjustment that is the problem.

PS, I live in Troy, MI. I also have four 48-spoke wire wheels. Send me a PM with contact info if you'd like.
 

Healey Nut

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

You should be able to hear a distinct click of the solenoid with the engine off and the car in third gear if not then start there, it could also be a set up problem due to wear in the linkage etc . Then its a possible pressure problem so check the filter and accumulator for junk etc and if that don't work and you cant build pressure (which you need a gauge to check first) you pulling the OD for a rebuild .
 
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britlover

britlover

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Thanks for the help guys... will check on the OD electrics this weekend hopefully. I did replace the exhaust hangars as the previous owner supplied NOS original type replacements with the car. It was a bear to get the exhaust to go back to position... it was probably hanging down for 20 years.

As far as wheels go, I may temporarily use the 60 spoke wires off of my TR4A to drive the car while sourcing either a new or good used set of 48 spokes.


And I've added pictures that I promised a while back... I just can't believe how clean this car is underneath! underside_small.jpgboot_small.jpgengine_left.jpgleft_rr_34.jpgfront34_small2.jpg
 

AH100M

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Anybody have any idea what that bracket is between the carburettors, near the heater pipe??
 

BigGreen

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

I love the Healey / Jaguar combination. :eagerness:
 

pan

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

TimK,
The Overdrive electrical circuit is fused. Power is supplied to the gearbox switch from the A4 terminal of the 35 amp fuse. (Power is supplied to the A3 fuse terminal from the ignition switch via the ignition coil). From the gearbox switch, power then goes to the overdrive relays (2 relays on a BN1).
On page G/12 of the service manual, figure 13 shows a diagram of the overdrive electrical circuit.
While it would be nice to keep the original wiring, in its damaged state the risk of this gem being destroyed by a fire is great.
Today, harnesses can be supplied in the same cloth bound cables as was original, that is the way I would be going.
Alwyn
 
Last edited:

GregW

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

The Overdrive electrical circuit is fused. Power is supplied to the gearbox switch from the A4 terminal of the 35 amp fuse. From the gearbox switch, power then goes to the overdrive relays (2 relays on a BN1).
On page G/12 of the service manual, figure 13 shows a diagram of the overdrive electrical circuit.

Hi Alwyn,
I'm not familiar with the 100 wiring, but I'd be very surprised of they fused that circuit then stopped fusing it from the BN4 on. All the later diagrams have the overdrive circuit connecting to the same side of the fuse as the ignition switch wire (the power feed side).

(Power is supplied to the A3 fuse terminal from the ignition switch via the ignition coil).

Also, there should be some kinda brown wire at the ignition switch. That would be the supply to the white wires, not the white wire from the coil.
 
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britlover

britlover

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

I just read that BN1 overdrive has a speed switch on the back of the trans that prevents it from engaging below 40mph... I'm not sure I ever went that fast on the 60 year old tires. This speed switch also prevents the solenoid from activating at rest with the key on like you can with all the other Healeys according to the manual I just read. Perhaps I will find it actually works after getting some new tires/ wheels on the car.

I think Alwyn was suggesting that the circuit is fused along with most everything else on the 35 amp fuse... but it is not fused separately on its own circuit.
 

pan

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

It seems I did not understand the statement. Thank you Britlover for clarifying that the circuit is still separated from the supply by a fuse.
Speed governors that function are a rarity. In fact I have heard that a BMC Service Bulletin recommended bypassing the governor due to failures that caused the engine to over rev when travelling at high speed. The BN1 was the only Healey that used the governor, it was deleted on the BN2 and later cars.
I actually have a problem with the gearbox switch. I have fitted a new replacement, but I am concerned that the new ones are not designed to be exposed to the gearbox oil. Later gearboxes have the switch located above the level of the oil. Mine ceased to function, but after removing and cleaning it worked again, only to fail later. If I hold the gear shift lever to the left, the overdrive works, but letting go of the lever causes the overdrive to disconnect. Any suggestions?
Alwyn
 
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britlover

britlover

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Re: Update/ questions on my original preserved BN1

Bill-

I'm wondering what the bracket is as well that is between the carbs... only thing that comes to mind is that it may have been part of the hand controls that the previous owner had installed to drive the car. He had polio, and had limited use of his legs for most of the 50 years that he drove the Healey. That bracket may have supported a cable used to operate the throttle. All of the other equipment has been removed, but that's my guess if you guys don't recognize it.
 
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