Tie rod lever threaded?

[19_again]

I'm having a devil of a time getting the old tie rod end off the wheel, is the tie rod lever threaded? I can't get the stud back through the hole in the lever in order to remove the old tie rod. I can't figure how you would get the stud through if in fact it were threaded, but I'm not gonna keep slamming it with a hammer until I know it's not threaded.

 

[Moseso]

It's a plain taper fit. And yes, they can be hard to break apart. Slamming it with a hammer isn't the best route, and may bend something you don't want bent. There are screw-type removers, and there's the cheaper "pickle fork" type removers. That's what I used. It's just a tapered fork that you jam between the tie rod end and the part it's stuck into -- and slam that with a hammer to wedge 'em apart.

 

[prb51]

Mine seperated easily enough with a fork/hammer but they did need a few whacks.

 

[tdskip]

The tie rod ends can be a bear to separate if they have sat for a long time. I've always used a pickle fork, and it can take some serious pounding.

I like to apply some vertical pressure with the pickle fork after it has been hit hard straight on several times, often it will pop loose at that point.

 

[TR3driver]

I've had good luck with one of these , but I've heard from several other people that they break easily. Note that this tool should be driven into the joint as far as it will go, so the end of the threaded shank hits the curved part of the tool, rather than the point. Torque it up "good and tight" then smack the jaw ... mine have all popped right apart. Leaves the joint & boot reusable, where the pickle fork frequently doesn't. I've also had it work where the pickle fork didn't.

 

[19_again]

Should have known there'd be a tool for this, or two! Thanks, I'll order one of each. Interesting price ranges, the pickle fork is either $46.00 from Auto Barn to $11 from Northern Tool. Same unit as far as I can tell.
Thanks to all.