tie rod end/ ball joint tool

[SeanTR3]

Does anyone know what kind of puller or fork can be used to separate the tie rod ends or ball joints on a TR3? I've been trying to replace the silentblocs and I can't get the nearby tie rod ends to release so I can pull the steering rod out to remove the metal sleeve from the silentbloc.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Sean, Yes there is such a tool.Do you have a JC Whitney catalog if so Two types are listed there the price of the recomended one is Item "B" at about$20.00.This is the best price I have seen others are asking up to $45.00 for it.---Keoke

 

[CraigFL]

It's been my experience that commercial tools to seperate ball joints just don't work very well. Here's what I do(and it works every time(easily):

1. Wrap tin foil around the ball joint(except of course on the stud and end of the steering arm).This protects the rubber seal from the flame.
2. Heat the steering arm only with a propane torch. You don't need red-hot, only HOT. This should only take about a minute.
3. Get two hammers, one large(4lb) and one regular. place the large hammer against the backside of the steering arm and hold. Take the other hammer and strike the frontside of the steering arm. After two or three hits the balljoint should have popped out, especially if it's the tapered type.

The theory here is to expand the hole with heat. Hitting the steering arm deflects the metal enough to break the locking action of the taper. The backup hammer just allows more force to go into the steering arm instead of just bending it.

Good luck!

 

[sparkydave]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif I didn't have terrific luck with a tie rod tool either, since it was still a little big for LBC tie rod ends. You may not even need to heat it, I got mine apart sans heat.
-Dave

 

[SeanTR3]

Thanks for the advice. I went back out today and had success using two small sledge hammers to break the joints free. Now I can move on to the steering box.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

I've got a drawer full of tie rod tools. Wouldn't you know, the cheapest one is the one I use the most. It just works every time...

www.jcwhitney.com

part ZX881770B

$11


Also works well on ball joints, shock links & more.

No hammering or torching needed.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Alan,
I have also had good luck with this tool. JCW #ZX881770B.
D

 

[Mwalsh]

This is the one I use...by British company Sykes Pickavant:

 

[Keoke]

Thats the tool I initially suggested and it works every time---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

I have both types. Sometimes the smaller cheap one is easier to get into tight places such as tie rod ends. Depends on what you are using it for. See attached pic.
D

 

[Britishtools]

Sykes-Pickavant- also makers of Britool!!!