Someone help me buy an XJS!

[boeingpilot]

Hello all,

I'm shopping for an XJS coupe, and I could use some advice. I have a long history with Triumphs, but have always loved the looks of the XJS so I decided it was time to pick one up. What are some tell-tale things to look for on these cars? What were the more "trouble free" production years (I realize the term "trouble free" and Jaguar were never meant to occupy the same sentence)? Also, what should I expect to pay for a solid runner? I've seen everything from $2000 to $20,000. I did a search on this board and found some good info. I could sure use a little more.

Cheers,

Chris

 

[Exotexs]

as with any old car, stay away from the Rust Belt cars. Southern and Western cars are usually preserved. I'm sure there are exceptions to this Rule, but I am referring to the Norm.

XJ-S and XJ-6 share many parts, symptoms are the same. Overall they are reliable cars. Parts are available from many sources.

I know of a few Coupesin Nashville Tennessee in the $5k to $9k range. Choice cars command more dough. 12 cylinder cars in great condition are the most desirable. Look at the picture of a black 1987 XJ-S 12 cylinder being sold in Nashville. Needs a/c and rear brake work, as well as a rear seat upholstery repair.

Ex

 

[jessebogan]

Buy an XJS!!!!.The first thing to do is look at and DRIVE a few different cars.Good ones are very very good, bad ones will bankrupt you. You want to find a car from a caring owner, with verifiable maintainance records. The cars in general are robust, but the one thing (besides rust) that they can not take is hot running. A temp gauge that is much above the N is in danger territory. I like the early 89 cars the best. these are the last cars before the air bag fitment, and they have a really nice ,one year only sport steering wheel. Cars up into the 155XXX Vin range still have the Lucas ignition, and although not perfect, it is easier to service than the later Marelli systems. Parts are cheaper for it also. These cars also have heated "sports seats", book matched veneer on the wood... I think they are the nicest of the bunch.

Budget for a couple of things when you get the car. Pull the radiator and have it re cored by a proper rad. shop. Heavy duty cores are available, and are worth the expense. Most aftermarket radiators are not worth spending money on. Second, plan on relacing ALL of the fuel lines under the hood. It is easy enough to do yourself, but there are a lot of them and it takes some time.

Beyond that, look for cars with decent interiors. Leather is expensive, and it gets harder every year to find nice used stuff. Look for rust around the rear wheel wells, front jack points, and under the radiator. Tail lights and bumper covers are pretty much non existant for the "face lift" (post 91 cars) so beware about those. I am happy to answer ary questions you might have , so feel free to drop me a line.

 

[boeingpilot]

Thanx jesse. I've been wrenching on TR's for years, but they're pretty straight forward simple. Do you need to be a rocket scientist to work on these Jags, or can an ordinary guy handle it?

 

[equiprx]

I have a 94 v12 coupe and it's the best car I ever drove hands down. Only glitch is fuel economy which I suspect might be the plug gaps which I need to change from bad advise. I have been collecting parts over the past four years to do a 100 point restoration. Last item needed is a front windshield and I can go to body and paint.

 

[LarryK]

Look for rust under the radiator above the panel. Look in the fenders around the wheel wells. Check for bushing wear and tear. Boot ( trunk ) look for wet along tank could be fuel or water. Electrics are not too bad, cooling of V-12 should be checked, as system has thermostat for each bank. Ignition is same a two 6-cyl engines and timed appropiately. Most parts a readily available thru British Heritage dealers and thru UK sources. Very nice road car, the most comfortable touring car available for the $. If you are capable of doing mechanics on your Disco, you'll be fine on the Jag.

 

[Jagboy69]

Unless you're IN LOVE with the idea of 12 cylinders, do yourself a favor and find a 6cylinder XJS. Despite whatever success other say they have with their V-12's, you'll thank me later. Anyone can find and buy a cheap XJS. They're a dime a dozen these days. However, finding a GOOD one is a different story. Those you will pay more for. Look at it this way, pay more NOW or you will pay lots more LATER!

 

[boeingpilot]

"Pay now or pay later" is pretty standard philosophy for these cars. I read a post by someone on this board that hit the nail on the head. He said, "nothing is more expensive than a cheap Jaguar!"

 

[maynard]

I also have a 94 V12 coupe, and I asgree it's the best car I have ever driven. What did you set the plugs at and what should they be? I have mine at .025 and my fuel economy is not as good as I think it should be.

 

[equiprx]

.045 at the recommendation of the indi shop owner I worked for for a few years.
I'm lucky to break 11 mpg average.

 

[Jagboy69]

This is an excerpt from Kirby Palms book.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]SPARK PLUG GAPS: The proper gap for the H.E. engine is 0.025” -- you can confirm this by checking the decal on the underside of the hood. Most plugs come out of the box with a 0.032”-0.035” gap. The gaps must be checked prior to installation. Oversize gaps can cause poor performance at high RPM, but worse they can contribute to rotor failure and resulting catalytic convertor meltdown in cars equipped with Marelli ignition -- see page 166.
Reports are that some dealers are installing spark plugs with 0.035” gap. If your dealer is doing this, the least you should do is never darken his doors again. Better yet, file a complaint with the EPA, since spark plug gaps are an “emission critical” specification (that’s why it’s on the decal under the hood) and it is illegal for them to be violating it. If you happen to suffer a catalytic convertor meltdown as a result, please sue the dealer and help put him out of business.
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