Runs a bit...then quits

[Gundy]

1380. HS2s. Aldon distributor. SU pump. Petronix ignition. Lucas sport coil. After an extended drive
it starts bad miss then dies. Will not even attempt to fire up. Just wind for nothing. Getting fuel.
No spark. Hot coil. By the time the flatbed gets there it fires right up. Pay the guy to follow me home.
30 mile drive. Almost at my driveway it dies again. Tow truck loaded it for the 1/4 journey to the
barn. Replaced that hot coil with another Lucas. Yep. Runs then dies and coil is hot. Replaced with a
blue Bosh. Runs then dies. Now it won't start even after an overnight cool down. Replace the Petronix.
It runs then dies. In my driveway after 20+ mile drive. Let it cool for a few minutes and ..varoom.
WTH....
Bought a set of points to install, which is what I was using before the Petronix.
Now the Petronix in there now fires right up and runs great but I know it will fail on extended drive.
Then I got to thinking....installed a ballast resistor.
We shall see when the road dries ....Mimi doesn't do rainy roads.
the car had no ballast resistor with the points.
The instructions from Petronix shows connection w/out resistor as preferred wiring but also shows
wiring with a ballast resistor.
Dang...we need the rain, in a bad drought, but I can't wait to see if I nailed this problem.
Car fires, idles and goes varoom with the resistor installed.
Endurance test is all that is lacking.
Fingers crossed. I really don't want to go back to points. Just a personal preference.
On the bright side...I have a new Lucas Sport coil and points in reserve now.

 

[Nelson]

I had a similar problem with my Sprite. Problem was a sticking float needle in one of my carbs. It drove me nuts as I replaced all the ignition components and fuel lines before I found an empty fuel bowl when the problem happened. Good luck with your detective work.

 

[Boink]

So, let me get this straight... when it dies, there is NO spark at all. Right?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

David,

Had same issue with MerCruiser Engine after D.A. Mechanic installed rebuilt engine and they did not install a ballast resistor. Boat ran like a scalded ape for a few days of water skiing. More power than we had ever experienced before. Then all of a sudden started losing power. turn off, things cool down, get going again several times, and then finally quits for good. Diagnosis, Bad Coil, towed in to dock. New Coil Installed $75. After the 3rd time this happened, with D.A. Mechanic scratching his a__ and saying I have no clue, must have a bad batch of coils. I consulted MerCruiser Manual and sure enough wiring diagram shows Ballast Resistor. Same symptoms Coil way, way too hot and finally burns up.

Now your engine was running great and you've put a lot of miles on it racing through the hills. Are you getting some sort of intermittent ground fault. That's what I might suspect. My issue started almost as soon as the boat went back in the water. But if coil was losing ground it would stop running but if it was a less than perfect ground...I'd go back to points and see if the issue is cured. Pertronix when they work...

 

[Jim_Gruber]

And I might add that was 8 years ago. After adding the Ballast Resistor never happened again.

 

[Gundy]

Yep, when she quits it starts as a bad misfire then dies quickly. No spark. Cool down and all is well...for a bit.
This weekend looks good for a real road test. I have high hopes but will keep fingers crossed.

 

[Gundy]

Rain continues. Jim, it could be grounding. The lack of a resistor
is easily and cheaply tested. Well, if the rain lets up and the roads dry
I can put theory to a test.
While I have put miles on the Petronix over a bit of time the early
trips were short. This first appear on a 30 + mile flogging.
including some 6 K plus 4 gear bits.
It takes over 20 miles to induce the fault.
Goes like a bat outta **** till it skips then quits quickly
thereafter.
I have a trailer and a tow truck client so there is that.
��
'Fore I kick the tires and light fires I will look at the ground.
I have put over 3000 miles on one set of points before switching
to Petronix. I changed for a prior experience doing this in other vehicles.
I have noticed the changes I expected and would love to keep it electro.
Just the same, the points set and a coils go in the car as spares.
Then there is the whole apocalypse thing so not so bad to have some points around.
sigh....rain.

 

[HealeyRick]

Y'know for an ignition system that was supposed to cure all our problems, the Pertronix still seems to have some issues. My bugeye runs a Cooper distributor and points, Lucas Sports coil, bumblebee Lucas solid core wires and NGK BP6ES plugs and still fires great (except when I soak it down with coolant). Nothing's ever easy with these cars.

 

[Gundy]

Rick, ya know nuttin great comes easy and these things are great when ya get the bits all in sync.
I loved your thread and the solution. Hence I stole the headline. ��

 

[Jim_Gruber]

David, haven't gotten Bugsy off of jack stands yet but engine sounds sweet. a pair of HS2's and header I hope those H2's are really needed to feed what could be a CooperS big valve head. I'll let everyone know how it runs and stops w new brakes all around. Home tomorrow night and work on the fiddly bits, guillotine for Ignition Switch, and a couple of dash lights and seat can go in. Need brake lamps and turn signals installed along with seat belts and Bugsy can go to BMV. Although he might be able to find his way around the block very, very soon.

 

[Gundy]

David, haven't gotten Bugsy off of jack stands yet but engine sounds sweet. a pair of HS2's and header I hope those H2's are really needed to feed what could be a CooperS big valve head. I'll let everyone know how it runs and stops w new brakes all around. Home tomorrow night and work on the fiddly bits, guillotine for Ignition Switch, and a couple of dash lights and seat can go in. Need brake lamps and turn signals installed along with seat belts and Bugsy can go to BMV. Although he might be able to find his way around the block very, very soon.

I am running a GT 7 Longman head with big valves. It is an aftermarket head patterned after the Cooper S heads.
Ported and polished to boot and has the extra studs. I think it cc'd at 21 combustion chamber.
edit: checked Spridgetmania....1.21 & 1.4 valves....$2750 + $200 for core

 

[Gundy]

Got a short test run in with a weather break. So far so good. Beautiful tones. Incredible throttle response.
Mimi just gets louder the fastest she spins. She is screaming when she gets revved during WOT.
Gave her a nice little detailing for the reward. Got out the toothbrush.
Good girl.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

So David did you go back to points for now?

 

[Gundy]

No points, well there is the new set in the tool kit. I installed a ballast resistor.
Weather has gotta clear for an extended drive. Early results look promising .
Quickly fires and idles smoothly at about 1100 rpm. It is a bit lumpy at idle.
Rock solid beats throughout the range. Love throttle blipping those HS2s
on down shifts.

 

[Gundy]

Sometimes you get lucky. After a 21 mile shakedown all was well. Smoother than a fresh jar of Skippy.
Stop while gate opens. Blip the throttle. RPMs drop. She's DEAD. Sooo.....ballast resistor was no fix.
I must say that coil was almost cool to the touch. It sure wasn't getting warm/hot like before the ballast
was added. Meh....on to the problem.
next up....that ground. Looks fine but...it is next up.
Fuel/bowls/pump etc were perfect. Just no spark from ignition.
Still to die at the gate was some kind of lucky. Strap to the Land Cruiser. Once going downhill again,
stop,unhook and let er roll into her barn.
Man I hate lifting and crawling under these things.
��

 

[HealeyRick]

David,

I should have thought of this earlier. A number of big Healey guys have been experiencing symptoms very similar to yours and the blame points to recently produced condensers, that are rumored to be poorly constructed. You might try one of these and see if it helps: https://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm

 

[Gundy]

David,

I should have thought of this earlier. A number of big Healey guys have been experiencing symptoms very similar to yours and the blame points to recently produced condensers, that are rumored to be poorly constructed. You might try one of these and see if it helps: https://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm

Thanks Rick,

I don't think the electronic has a condenser . I would have to hike to the barn, but I think that's correct.
No wrenching till the weekend.
Still have spare electronic and points in the barn. Plan is to redo ground and install the electronic.
if...if....that fails on to points AND be sure I have a good condenser .

 

[HealeyRick]

There's your problem right there, no condenser! For diadnostic purposes, why not go back to points and condenser and see if there's an improvement. Would at least let you know if the Pertronix module is the problem.

 

[markberry]

have you installed one of the new carbonless plastic rotors from Advanced distributors? I had the same problem you have this summer. I guess those old riveted, high carbon plastic rotors short to the distributor shaft when the get warm. once they cool off the car mysteriously starts up just fine and works again for a period.
mark