Red and Yellow lites

[ron wilson]

I have a 59 TR3A. Everything was working properly when I parked it a cuple of weeks ago but when I started it a few days ago both the red ignition light and the Yelow turn signal indicator came on and both stay lit up when I start the engine.
I have more than one article explaining how to figure what may be the charging system problem (red Light) which I never seem to be able to figure out but that is normal procedure for me. My question is what could be the cause of the Yellow light staying on ??Is there a relationship with the 2 lites ? The signal light still works in other words even tho it stays on all the time it flashes brighter when the turn signals are activated.

 

[Kurtis]

Ron,

Do all your turn signals work? That's the first thing I'd check regarding that issue.

As for the ignition warning lamp... What is your ammeter telling you? Does it indicate a charge or discharge while the light is on?

 

[Geo Hahn]

[ QUOTE ]
...even tho it stays on all the time it flashes brighter when the turn signals are activated.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's the clue that caught my eye. The wiring for these lights pass very close to each other and may even cross. If the wire to the yellow light (light green wire) was to come in contact with one of the wires to the red light (yellow or white wires) it might cause the condition you describe.

I take it that the yellow light comes on as soon as you switch on the ignition (before starting). Of course, the red light is correctly on at this point. You might disconnect the white wire on the ignition switch that goes to the red light (I think there will be three white wires back there -- red light/starter button/fuse block) and see if the yellow light goes out. If it does I would suspect either the white or yellow wire is contacting the light green wire.

Alternately, disconnect the battery and poke around behind those lights and then see if the problem went away?

 

[ron wilson]

Thanks t both of you for your suggestions. Have not had an opportunity to explore the possibilities yet. I guess in the first place how in H do I get the center dashboard piece away from the dash. I have 2 wingnuts on the bottom but cannot figure how to get at anything above them. Are there 2 more wingnuts up higher ?

Yes the turn signals all work. The yellow light increases in intensity when they are activated and flashes with them fro bright yellow to regular yellow. ???
Will attempt to see if I have a crossed wire problem and should be able to tell without removing the center piece from the dash but it is really tight under there and would like a little more room especially when trying to access the wiring to the red light. The car has a heater does that add to the room problem?

 

[Geo Hahn]

There will be 2 more nuts at the top... I don't think they were originally wingnuts so who knows what those top ones will be. As I recall, you do not need to remove the top ones... just loosen them, they are in slots not holes, and pull the panel forward at the bottom then down to free it.

Note: These cars were built by little guys with long skinny fingers.

Here is a photo of (sort of) what the wiring may look like behind there if you could see it from behind. Some of the wires are the incorrect color but the ones relevant to this discussion are correct (yellow, white & lt green).

 

[ron wilson]

Geo: Thanks for the pulldown suggestion will try it in the next few days. Also thanks for the picture gives me a better idea as what to expect behind the panel.
Kurtis: I forgot to answer your question re the ammeter. With the ignition on and engine running the ammeter is neutral and discharges if I turn on any accessories which I believe is sort of normal. Prior to this problem it always showed about 10 amps + I am strarting to believe there is a wiring problem which is why I want to get at the back of the panel to see what is going on.

 

[Kurtis]

Ron,

I think Geo may be on to something regarding the signal indicator light (crossed wires). However, the ignition light certainly shouldn't be on all the time in the first place unless there is a problem with the charging system.

Your ammeter should be showing a slight charge with the engine running (above 1200-1500 rpms anyway). At idle (around 800 rpms) my ignition light starts to glow.

Here's everything I know about the ignition light (which is not a lot and may be wrong!) - There's a cut-out relay in your voltage control box. This essentially disconnects the circuit between the battery and the generator during low rpms (to prevent the battery from trying to drive the generator like a motor). When this relay is open (the battery and the generator are disconnected), the light should be on. It seems to me that you may have a problem with the relay, and it may not be closing properly.

It’s fairly easy to check. Just take the cover off the voltage control box, and watch the operation of the contacts as you increase the engine’s rpms. I’ll dig up a couple of pictures of the control box here shortly to illustrate what I’m talking about.

 

[Geo Hahn]

[ QUOTE ]
...Geo may be on to something regarding the signal indicator light (crossed wires). However, the ignition light certainly shouldn't be on all the time in the first place unless there is a problem with the charging system...

[/ QUOTE ]

Well I did think about that: As i understand it, the light is normally off because there is equal current on each side of it... my thought was that if one of the wires to it had a draw on it (the yellow light) then perhaps that could cause the red light to glow.

Or, more likely, I'm just fishing for a circumstance that might explain the result and like that guy's Razor want just one thing wrong to account for it all.