Rear Closeout Panel

[ekamm]

I am working on my interior panels and have a question about he rear closeout. I have the one that is mad solely of Masonite. No support. I seems kinda flimsy and I thought of some reinforcing. Has anyone redone this type and did you change it any? Geo Hahn posted some pics of his which has the metal piece at the bottom. I wonder if that was there as the car was shipped with the occasional seat. I'm pretty sure that mine wasn't. Here's a couple of pics.

 

[TR3driver]

They were different for different body versions, but yours looks correct to me. Never had any trouble with mine, even with a fairly large person wedged in back there. As I recall, it's actually pretty well supported by the fuel tank and body, although not fully of course.

 

[martx-5]

My parts book shows the change on the TR3A's happened at TS60001.

 

[Gordon_Dedrick]

You could put some sheet foam or jute on the front of the gas tank to firm it up if you wish. It's apretty small space between when installed corectly
Gordon

 

[PeterK]

Mine is exactly as yours too. One corner of the masonite on mine was split a little and the other side weak so I added fiberglass cloth reinforcement on the back. Worked out well and is much stronger.

 

[ekamm]

My corners are also week and need to do some thing.I don't know anything about fiberglass but Geo used some thin plyboard or something.

 

[Rhodyspit75]

If you just need to stiffen up the weak corners, fiberglass is quite easy to use. Everything you need is available at the local hardware or home center. Pick up some two part epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Mix the epoxy acording to the directions and spread a thin coat over the area to be repaired. Lay the cloth over it while it is still wet and as it starts to dry paint over with two more coats. If it is still weak do the other side. Someone had cut my Spitfire transmission cover into two pieces where the shifter comes thru. I guess they didn't know how to remome the lever. I used this method to repair it and it is as good as new.

 

[TR3driver]

I agree about the 'glass being easy. Be sure you get the 'cloth' and not 'mat', it's much easier to work with (although more expensive). JB Weld will work for the epoxy, or you can buy ordinary fiberglass resin & hardener. Pick up some heavy scissors, don't try to borrow your wife's sewing scissors.

With the JB Weld, I prefer to lay a fairly thick coat of epoxy first, and then press the cloth into it. Otherwise the cloth tends to move around and come loose while you are applying epoxy on top of it. You can also work it with a putty knife, if you dip the knife in water first (so the epoxy doesn't stick).

Yet another method is to apply the epoxy directly to the cloth, with it laying on a sheet of plastic. The result is a 'patch' that you can put into relatively awkward places (like repairing the battery box on a TR3 from under the dash.

I've used JB Weld & glass cloth for a lot of smaller repairs over the years, and it works great. After the epoxy is hard, you can also sand or file to shape, if you want.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

What about painting the backside with POR15...I have read that you can paint over cardboard/backing board to strengthen a piece as well....

Just a thought.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[ekamm]

You know at this time I don't even know if anyone will ever sit in the back as there is currently no seat. I just want to do any thing neede now, and the corners definitely could stand something.