Spitfire New Acquisition, 1976 Spitfire

[LynnB]

I have not posted on this board in many years. Started this post in 2015: > Bought our first British car <

We still have that car and enjoy it from time to time.

Apparently, I only post when I acquire a British car. It has happened again.

Friend of mine died recently. He gave this to me a few years ago, but it remained at his place until yesterday. Took the wife and the grandsons and we drug it out from under a carport.
All original paint except the top half of the bonnet. You can tell it has been repainted. The rest of the paint is in good condition. The only rust is some bubbling on the LF fender. Car is incredibly dirty. Someone bought seat covers for it, but they are not fully installed. Just sitting on the seats. Engine and trans were both overhauled in the 90s and it has less than 2000 miles on it since then!!! They even installed an upgraded camshaft.

Car has been sitting a long time. I don't think it has been on the road since 2003. It is possible it was driven in 2012 or 13, when my friend acquired it. Left front wheel was locked up (I believe the pads were rusted stuck to the rotor) until we hit the first ladder brace on the car hauler ramp, when it broke loose. Rolled easily after that. Brakes and clutch hydraulics will need to be gone through.

Twin SU carbs have been "upgraded" to a single Weber 45 DCOE. Throttle shafts and choke lever are frozen. Soaked all with WD-40 today. Top is in remarkable condition. Just dirty. Pretty sure it is this kit, right down to the Longflow air filter: > Weber Side-Draft Carburetor Conversion Kit, 45 DCOE, Spitfire 1967-80 <

Still has the original 155 13 spare Goodyear, with "MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN" on the inside sidewall. I kind of like the aftermarket wheels. Tires will need replaced. The best news is that the engine is not locked up. It turns over freely just using the alternator pulley retaining nut. Oil is nice and clean. Both brake and clutch master cylinders are full to the brim with nice clean fluid, so that should minimize corrosion there.

I have not yet decided what to do with it. I really don't have time to do much, if I do anything. I just removed the body from the frame for a full resto on my 1970 LT-1 Corvette. Still working full time, and have taken on a monumental building restoration project in my small historic town. I am CEO of the State Capital Publishing Museum. I have another nine years to go on that project. Website here: > The State Capital Publishing Museum - Guthrie, Oklahoma <

If I decide to get it running, I will remove the spark plugs and valve cover. Will squirt some thin oil in the cylinders, and to my best to lube the rocker shafts and rocker arms. Will change the oil and filter, and crank if over by hand for a bit to see if I can get oil to the rockers. Then reinstall the plugs and valve cover, give it a crank with starter fluid and see if it fires. If it does, then I have the Weber to contend with. Looks like a lot of corrosion there. I have never messed with a Weber DCOE. Anything in particular I need to be aware of?

 

[LynnB]

Guessing the rockers were not originally painted black. Is that correct?

 

[LynnB]

Try the pic again.

 

[mctriumph]

Clean out the fuel system!!!!!!!!!
Mad dog

 

[LynnB]

Want to make sure it will run first. But yes, assuming it fires up on starting fluid, then the tank will need to be pulled and cleaned & all the lines flushed. Already mentioned the carb.

 

[Sarastro]

First, do a compression test.

If the results look OK, then think about starting it. Clean out the fuel system and replace all fluids. Adjust the valves. Replace all rubber bits, replace the plugs and the usual ignition parts if they don't look good, and static time the ignition.

I don't think it will run long enough on starting fluid to tell much about the engine condition. Once you have it running continuously, you can hear any death rattles or other ominous sounds.

As for the carbs--I have Weber IDFs on my Porsche, which are pretty much just DCOEs standing on end. They work much the same way. I would be prepared to replace the needle valve for the float, and probably you'll need a set of gaskets--might be simplest just to buy a rebuild kit, $40 from Carbs Unlimited. There are a bunch of little o-rings and things in the kit that you will probably need.

There are a lot of books on Webers around--I have the Haynes book, Weber Carburetors: Owner's Workshop Manual, and it should be adequate. They are pretty simple; presumably the complicated stuff, like selecting jet sizes and emulsion tubes, is already done, so only a few adjustments are needed: float height, idle mixture, and idle speed, and maybe something I'm forgetting.

Rebuild Kits Weber DCOE Carburetors

Rebuild Kits Weber DCOE Carburetors

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