Need ballpark estimate of rust repair.

[jjbunn]

I have an opportunity to acquire a 2+2 at a very reasonable price. However, it has some rust. The owner says, specifically:

"There is a lot of rust in the floor pan, wheel arches, and rocker panels (hence the replacement panels) and the rear control arm mount on the right hand side rusted through the floor pan (I have the replacement mount)."

Since I do not weld, I would need to have this work done by a professional. Would anyone like to hazard an educated guess as to how much this might cost ... to the nearest $1000 ?!

Thanks for any input.

Julian

 

[Basil]

I would contact SNG Barrett and see how much all the required replacement panels are first, then get some quotes for the labor. My guess is your talking several thousand $$ easy.

 

[jjbunn]

I would contact SNG Barrett and see how much all the required replacement panels are first, then get some quotes for the labor. My guess is your talking several thousand $$ easy.

Hi Basil - apparently the current owner already has purchased the replacement panels. Assuming that, does a couple of thousand sound about right for the work?

 

[TRDejaVu]

I would contact SNG Barrett and see how much all the required replacement panels are first, then get some quotes for the labor. My guess is your talking several thousand $$ easy.

Hi Basil - apparently the current owner already has purchased the replacement panels. Assuming that, does a couple of thousand sound about right for the work?

Firstly, my OTS is having floors, outer rockers and rear floor bulkhead work. Based on the way mine is going, my gut says 2 to 3 times that amount depending on the hourly rate; FYI - no surprises on my one yet, so I'm still happy. Mine is in with a well respected Jag specialist (Lippincotts) who charges $65/hour.

 

[Grantura_MKI]

What happend with the contact that I provided you a few days ago?

 

[jjbunn]

What happend with the contact that I provided you a few days ago?

Whoa! I missed that - wasn't paying attention to the Forum over the last two days. I'll call the number. Thanks!

 

[jjbunn]

What happend with the contact that I provided you a few days ago?

Good contact: thanks - turns out I'd seen that car in Hemmings - apparently no floors etc., but an interesting price! I've left my name with the guy I spoke to and will make a point of calling them back periodically.

 

[jessebogan]

I just looked at a 2 plus 2 last WE for a customer. Rust along the bottom of the sills, and floor interface. I got a quote from someone I know and trust (Many Etypes done already). To do sills, rockers and floors was between 5 to 7K including parts (He makes his own). He also pointed out that there was going to be some "connective tissue"repairs needed that can't be seen from outside, . He also pointed that with that amount of rust, it was possible that it was going to need work on the bottom of the bulkhead as well.

However, after all of that was done, it would be good for at least another 20 years or so...

 

[Andy Blackley]

Hmmm. I wonder if that level of work and the attendant investment of time and money is really cost effective for a 2+2. To do the sills and floors and repaint you are looking at a comprehensive strip down. And then "ship fitters" disease will set in. Before you know it its 5 to 10 years and tens of thousands of dollars before its all done. A full blown restoration on an OTS is probably cheaper than the coupe or 2+2 when you factor in the cost of the interior bits. You might stand a chance of recouping (pun intended) your investment too.

I dearly love my 2+2, but then I bought because it really doesn't need that kind of work. Cheaper to buy a nice car that costs more initially but needs only a few minor jobs, than to deal with all that. My $.02

 

[Andy Blackley]

Say, have you tried search engines like jaxed or Auto-tempest? They combine a lot different advertising forums into a convenient format.

https://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/home.cgi

https://www.autotempest.com/

I also noticed on ebay a 69 2+2 being sold by wirewheel.com. They also advertised it classic Motorsports. I thought it sold at auction a couple of weeks ago for $18K, but now its relisted. Worth looking at: https://www.wirewheel.com/1969-JAGUAR-E-TYPE-SERIES-2-42L-22.html Very attractive color scheme IMHO.

No interests etc.

 

[Grantura_MKI]

As I was told by people/dealers...you make your money on the purchase. If you would spend that sort of money on a 2+2, sorry but you are silly. Take your time on this. In the end, you will have more punters after a coupe than a 2+2....again, sorry just the truth!

 

[jjbunn]

Hmmm. I wonder if that level of work and the attendant investment of time and money is really cost effective for a 2+2. To do the sills and floors and repaint you are looking at a comprehensive strip down. And then "ship fitters" disease will set in. Before you know it its 5 to 10 years and tens of thousands of dollars before its all done. A full blown restoration on an OTS is probably cheaper than the coupe or 2+2 when you factor in the cost of the interior bits. You might stand a chance of recouping (pun intended) your investment too.

I dearly love my 2+2, but then I bought because it really doesn't need that kind of work. Cheaper to buy a nice car that costs more initially but needs only a few minor jobs, than to deal with all that. My $.02

Thanks Andy et al.

Here's my take on price etc.:

1) Going price for decent driver '69 2+2: $20,000
2) Nice paint job: $4,000
3) Rust repair (floor, sills, suspension points): $5,000
4) Miscellaneous parts/trim: $3,000
5) All other work: $0 (my cost - this is the fun part for me)

So, if I can get a '69 2+2 for $8,000 that's essentially complete but needs paint and rust repair (i.e. $20,000 - $4,000 - $5,000 - $3,000) then I'm not upside down. And any car less than $8,000 starts to look like an investment.

It's hard to put a price on 5) - it may even be a negative number, since this is a hobby for enjoyment.

I'd rather find something around $16,000 with little/no rust, but am starting to realise that's not realistic.

The majority of the FHC and 2+2 cars around seem to be either rust buckets for $10k, or drivers starting at $20k and going way up, with very little in between.

What say you?

 

[jjbunn]

Say, have you tried search engines like jaxed or Auto-tempest? They combine a lot different advertising forums into a convenient format.

https://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/home.cgi

https://www.autotempest.com/

I also noticed on ebay a 69 2+2 being sold by wirewheel.com. They also advertised it classic Motorsports. I thought it sold at auction a couple of weeks ago for $18K, but now its relisted. Worth looking at: https://www.wirewheel.com/1969-JAGUAR-E-TYPE-SERIES-2-42L-22.html Very attractive color scheme IMHO.

No interests etc.

The jaxed search is great! It found a very promising car I hadn't come across before. Thanks for the tip.

 

[jjbunn]

I decided to pass on the opportunity - basically the guy has a complete 2+2 '69 with engine out on a dolly, body on a dolly, about $8k worth of new parts from XKs unlimited, and all the original parts boxed up in about a dozen boxes. He told me he'd take $6000 for the whole lot, which strikes me as a good deal, despite the rust situation in the mounts and floor pans.

My wife put her foot down - I don't think she'd tolerate all of the boxes etc. strewn about the place.

If anybody is interested in the package, PM me and I'll put you in touch with the owner.

 

[Grantura_MKI]

I wish you luck. You budget is way off in many areas. Good on your wife!

 

[jjbunn]

I wish you luck. You budget is way off in many areas. Good on your wife!

You must be referring to:

2) Nice paint job: $4,000
3) Rust repair (floor, sills, suspension points): $5,000
4) Miscellaneous parts/trim: $3,000

because the other budget items are indisputable.

I assume you think these are gross underestimates of cost?

You can apparently get a decent/good paint job at maaco or one day for $1k, so four times that price seems conservative for a nice job. Is that wrong?

Rust repair ... $5,000 is about 70 hours at $75 an hour, or almost nine full 8 hour days of work. Is that too short? Or is the labour rate unrealistic?

The $3,000 for misc. parts and trim seems good for the odd handle, trim piece, etc., no?

Just curious as to where I'm off.

 

[JodyFKerr]

Paint quality pricing is on a curve.

A solid body car with minimal body work (e.g. a couple dents, waves, etc) will cost ~10K for a *really* good paint job. A good paint job ~6 to 7K.

Why is this? The length & curves of the vehicle. It needs to be worked on by a body shop that can deal with the body as well as a painter that can work with it correctly. There's a lot of body tweaking involved to go from rust repair to clean & straight.

Also, don't forget machining costs, tool costs for the tools you don't own, etc, etc.

My gut reaction is that your total restoration cost on a candidate like that would be closer to 40k if not a bit higher all said and done. That's based on a lot of experience.

Considering you'd be mainly working on engine/suspension/etc. Go find the absolute best bodied car you can, engines are easy to fix, bodies are not.

Jody

 

[vagt6]

Julian, another potential negative in dealing with antique cars is the "unknown factor": often, when you encounter rust in one area, it's a good assumption that there's more rust elsewhere.

Bottom line, if the pans and sill are rusty, assume that the peripheral areas are rusty as well, including the frame. More money, more headache, more money, etc.

It practically never is economically feasible to purchase a car that needs this much work if you must pay someone else to do the work. The "unknown factor" lurks in this car, and others like it. I've seen it too many times, almost every time in a car in this or similar condition that appears to be a "good deal".

Wait for the right example into which some poor sop has poured far too much money and is forced to sell for a price that is significantly lower than his "investment" in the restoration of the car. There are many examples out there for the patient and informed buyer.

It's worth the wait . . .

 

[thomas371948]

Julian, I have used a spray caulled extend to combat rust and i have or had a 79 dodge truck 4 wheel drive. ten year ago no new rust and the guy does not drive any more and still no ner rust. extend by loctite is great. i also use moisture repeling foam in areas that are a problem and great rust stopping with it. if it stops moisture norust. i use these and they work. have had my TR 7 15 years and on more rust did not have much to begin with. . tjkj48

 

[jessebogan]

Part of the problem with E types is that the skin IS the stressed member, IE the frame.It is built like an aircraft, so all the underlying parts must be properly repaired and attached to the skin properly, or the body will not be strong. Then there was much lead used to make all the compound curves match up properly. A bonnet from one car will not just bolt up and forget it to another, there will be fettling required. You can buy a replacement panel, but it will require being fitted... Takes a skilled person to do it right. This can all be done, but it costs $$$ to do it right

As far as preserving the repairs, there is plenty of better rust proofing now than there was "back in the day". Any good repair should last pretty much forever.