As a Long Time Member of the We Tight Club I will post this in memory of our Spridget Godfather Frank Clarici. Frank restored more than 70 Spridgets IIRC in his time on this earth and is fondly remembered by those who know him or read his responses to all of our questions. Thanks Frank we all miss you.
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Carpets for $30.00
Install a convertible Top[/h]
Carpets for $30.00 - by Frank Clarici
Have you seen the carpet kits available for Sprites and Midgets, they cost $100 and up and they do not fit properly. Here is the solution. Items needed:
- Two rolls (4yards) auto carpet from auto parts chain, (Pep Boys) discount store, (Wal Mart or K-Mart) or from a carpet store. average price $5 per yd or $10 per 2 yd roll any color.
- One can 3M foam adhesive #74 or #77
- Razor knife with extra blades.
If you have your old carpets you can use them as a template if not , no problem, just follow these simple instructions:
- Remove seats and tracks
- Measure length of floor from rear bulkhead to front frame rail, up over and down frame rail, and measure width across floor pan.
- Cut 2 pieces, 1 for each side about 24 inches by 36 inches.
- Lay carpet in floor and trim to the center hump and front cross member with razor knife. Keep the cut offs as these will be used for the frame members at the footwells.
- Cut a piece 48" X 24" for the rear deck and bulkhead this curves right around and looks much better then the 2 pieces that come in a kit.
- Trim to fit, use the cut offs for the rear wheel wells and their frame rails. Cut a piece 19" X 19" for the back of the center hump. The 2 hardest areas are the wheel wells and the front of the hump with its curves and shifter hole.
- For the wells glue up both suffices cut out for the seat belt bolt if your Sprite is so equipped, fold the carpet and cut through the fold (double cut) for a perfect fit. Try this with and old heavy rag or sweat shirt to get a pattern.
- As for the front of the hump, this must be done in 3 pieces, cut the left and right sides 1" taller then needed, cut the top 2" wider then needed, hold the pieces in place and mark the top corners with chalk, these will have to be sewn together. A heavy duty sewing machine works best but it can be accomplished by hand sewing, a little binding around the shifter and rear edge make a nice finishing touch. Again use a rag as a template.
- Once all the pieces are fitted and trimmed, spray the glue on both surfaces, let stand for 1 minute and press in place.
The carpet should hold in place for many years and can easily be removed with some mild pulling should you want to inspect your floors for rust. For a really nice touch try some carpet padding under the rug. You will not believe how much road noise this eliminates. Glue it in in the same manner. I have done this procedure to 4 Sprites now, 2 with padding , 2 without, and have had no loose carpeting at all. The first car was done over 4 years ago.
Good luck.
If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.
Frank Clarici
may be copied
Interior Panels for Side Curtain Models - by Frank Clarici
Are your interior panels warped, ripped, or non existent? You can do it yourself for about $60 in a Saturday afternoon in any color imaginable including hot pink. The items you will need are:
- 4 X 8 sheet of 1/8" hardboard (masonite)
- 3M spray adhesive #74 or #77
- 1pint of Weldwood brand contact glue ( the flammable kind)
- 3 yards of quality vinyl
- tools - jigsaw, drill, razor knife
The procedure:
- Pick up a 4 X 8 sheet of 1/8" masonite at any lumber or home center, using your old panels as a template, mark the sheet and cut out panels using a jigsaw. If your car has no interior panels use cardboard to make templates. (There are 2 inner fender panels, 2 lower footwell panels, 1 in front of the shifter over the hump, 2 rocker panels, 2 panels that go over the rear wheel wells and cover the rear 1/4 panels, and the 2 door pockets.)
- On the wheel well panels mark the hood stick brackets drill a hole large enough for your jigsaw blade and cut out the square hole. If your car has seat belts that attach to the rockers, make a notch for them. Sand the edges of the masonite. Mark each piece for its location and mark the back side so you won't get confused when covering them.
- Lay out the vinyl on a clean work bench and cut about 2" larger in each direction then the panel to be covered.
- With the spray glue coat the back of the vinyl and the front of the panel, let the glue stand for 1 minute and press the panel onto the vinyl, turn it over and check for bubbles or wrinkles.
- Now using the contact cement, coat the exposed vinyl over lap and the back side of the masonite with 2 coats allowing 30 minutes drying time between coats. This step also water proofs the panel.
- When the 2nd coat is dry, cut off the corners leaving 1/8" long to cover the edge, fold the vinyl over the back of the panel and press in place. For inside curves, cut slits in the vinyl and fold over. For the holes in the wheel well panels, cut an X diagonally through vinyl and fold over. The door pockets may be a little tricky but patients and time will result in a good finished product.
- When installing your new panels carefully align the fender panels and drill the holes for the door check straps. Use a #6 X 1/2" self drilling screw with finishing washers to reinstall the panels taking care not to screw through the rear wiring harness leg when working on the right side of the car.
- Are you ready to cover the dashboard? Go ahead, glue, stick, stretch, and fold. Cut out for the instruments.
Good luck,
If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.
Frank Clarici
may be copied
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