TR6 Help..TR6 won't start after months of sitting

[Flummoxed]

Hi guys-
Well, I put the car cover on the 73 TR6 for the winter, had knee surgery, so didn't have the opportunity to start it occassionally. Now that spring is rolling around and I'm recovered, I went to start it, it turns over, but won't start. I don't have the electronic ignition, just the points, etc., but all of that was renewed last summer (including coil). I had a friend who knows a bit more about cars take a look. He tried some of that carb spray on the air cleaner to give ot a boost, no luck. Then, he took off the wire leading to the dist. cap and had me tirn it over to see if there was a spark, he didn't see one. So, anyone have any ideas where to start? The car was running fine before storage, it would fire right up. Thanks for any help, as always.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Frist thing I would check is the points gap -- when they sit for a long spell they can lose their gap if the points weren't tightened down real hard.

You can do a quick visual check... points should open to a gap about the thickness of a paper match.

 

[DrEntropy]

Morelike the points have developed a "patina": "FUZZ"!! Some #600 "wet-or-dry" sandpaper thru 'em or a red or green ScotchBrite pot scrubber pad (don't tell "yer mum" ya used it onna CAR!) will clean 'em in-situ. I'd bet it'll light right off after that treatment.

 

[AweMan]

Condensate in the dist cap might be a cause, {corrosion on the rotor to dist cap contacts} The afore mentioned point gap or "Patina" could also do it. Not likely but the condenser might have just happened to go poof just as you shut it off. Clean the electrical contacts on the coil {both wires going to it}. Make sure wire inside the dizzy arn`t shorted. thats about all I can think of for the moment.
Kerry

 

[Flummoxed]

Thanks for the help, fellas. One more stupid question. I know there is a condensor under the dist. cap. But, also, there appears to be a condensor (at least that is what I think it is) that is attached to one of the two positive wires from the original Lucas coil. I'm confused about this b/c I can not find this "second condensor" anywhere in the catalogs. This part looks very old (prob. original), and I want to replace it, but not sure what it even is. Are there two condensors? This part looks similar to the condensor underneath the dist. cap, but sits next to the coil and is mounted to the block.

 

[Andrew Mace]

That "second condensor" likely is a radio noise suppressor.

 

[RomanH]

That "second condensor" likely is a radio noise suppressor.

Yep, exactly what it is. I don't think that would be the cause of your troubles.

 

[Flummoxed]

Thanks, guys. I know I'm out of my league on this car, but I'm trying. I think I'll order new dist. cap, points, etc. But, it seems like I remember a vet. of Brit cars telling me about the carbon cannister (located at the front by the radiator on my 73 TR6)sometimes being a source of starting problems. Maybe condensation built up in this thing while it was sitting? Does this make sense? Maybe I should replace this thing since I'm ordering everything else? I might be totally wrong on this carbon thing. Thanks.

 

[achtungeveryone]

you mentioned your friend could not see a spark coming off the coil. I would take care of this first, since it's likely your problem. do you have the old parts? the old coil? you could reinstall if the new parts become suspect. likely a loose wire or broken connection...somewhere.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I'm with the majority here. Clean and regap the contact points, make sure there's no corrosion on the distributor cap terminals or rotor, and keep at it until you get spark. Oh, and maybe throw the old rotor back in if you still have it (there have been tons of problems with replacment rotors in recent years). No sense spending lots of money for bits you likely don't need.

 

[Sarastro]

This is why I continually suggest that people spend $10 on a cheap digital multimeter. With one of these, you could tell if the points are conducting or not in an instant. You could also check to see if there is 12V at the coil, and, if not, trace it back through the system to see where it's getting lost.

Is the ignition of a TR6 fused (unlike my Sprite, where it isn't)? If so, maybe a dirty fuse contact; very common problem.

 

[AweMan]

Another thought:
The ignition could be fused, {I don`t know TR-6`s so I can`t say for sure}. I suggest look on the fuse block for and Ign fuse if it is there pull it and check it with a multimeter.
Also Some cars have an ignition relay, and or a rheostat, might be worth a look.

 

[Guest]

Not fused. And very likely that "extra condenser"-looking device is an external ballast for the coil. They were usually adjacent to the coil and mounted on the engine block. Often rectangular boxes, sometimes not. About the size of a pack of gum.

 

[tdskip]

Hold on - was it running AFTER you updated/replaced the coil etc. but BEFORE you stored it?

 

[Flummoxed]

Yeah, it was running like a champ after the fresh coil, etc. Then, I simply threw a cover on it. It sat for months, now, it won't start. We did have an unusually bad winter her in OR., but I was pretty helpless to do anything about storing it b/c of the leg operation. So, no doubt, there were low temps., moisture, etc. With everyone's advice, I'm thinking I'll order new Lucas Dist, cap, points, rotor, even ground wire (which the fabric is starting to fray on), and start fresh. I'll chalk it up as a lesson learned as far as storage. I just can't imagine it being anything more serious than cold weather related storage issue, since it was running fine before sitting for so long. My hope is just that it is related to these inexpensive ignition pieces.

Bill, could this external ballast for the coil be the culprit? Do they sell this in the aftermarket catalogs? I'm sure this part is original.

 

[Geo Hahn]

If it is a ballast resistor then you can check it with that cheap multimater you're going to pick up first thing tomorrow... but my money's still on the points.

 

[RonMacPherson]

A couple of quick suggestions. Get yourself a multimeter if possible, or if you don't think your skills of learning how to use it are up to the task(It's not as overwhelming as it seems) then a basic test light. Multimeters can be gotten for under 30 at Sears, Radio Shack, most Parts house. Then check for twelve volts, Hook up the black lead to the battery negative cable, the braided smaller terminal one, that should also be bolted to the engine and the body. Hook the positive leak(red) up to the battery positive cable(post) with the gauge set on 20 volts. check your voltage. Should be in the range of 11+ volts. Need at least 9.5 when cranking. Remove the distributor cap, Turn your key on, then hook the positive lead up(with a probe, so you're not disconnecting any of the primary wires) first to the coil, To the positive terminal check your voltage. should be at least within a volt of the battery, i.e. if the battery is rading 11.8 coil primary feed voltage should be at least 10.8. Then move the positive lead to the other side of the coil, with the points closed, take a screwdriver and open your points and watch the voltage lead on the meter. Let us know what happens. This is the primary feed into the coil. Coil just acts like a step up transformer turning 12 volts into 20K plus volts. Need to isolate whether the problem is in the primary side of the ignition or the secondary side, that would be the coil, the wire coming out of the coil, the rotor, distributor cap and wires. How Stuff Works used to have a pretty good article on automotive ignition systems, might check there.

 

[rotoflex]

I vote also for cleaning up the points & checking the gap.

 

[Flummoxed]

Alright, I received brand new Lucas points, dist cap, condenser, terminal lead and lead wire, and replaced all. The points gap looked fine (at highest point of cam lobe, it was about a matchhead gap). Let me ask this obvious question. When I try to start it, I notice my volt meter only reaches about 11 (the gauge goes from 11-15). Is this how the gauge is designed? Or, when I turn the key, should the volt meter not reach it's highest point (say 14-15)? In other words, b/c the battery sat so long, maybe it's discharged just enough to not be able to start? I know you some of you eluded to this, but am I missing the boat? Does anyone know what that volt meter on a 73 TR6 should read when trying to start?

 

[AweMan]

What side of the coil is that condenser looking thing hooked to + or - ?
I would test that condenser looking thing, for short to ground.
If it reads anything on the ohm meter and it is connected to the - side of the coil it is robbing the points of any electricity, your engine is NEVER goig to start until you either resove the problen with the condenser looking thing or remove it completely.
If it is connected to the + side of the coil and it hasn`t burned a wire or exploded by now it is obvious that it isn`t short to ground.
I`m guessing here but my best guess is that this condenser looking thing is a radio noise superssing condenser. If so, you can safely remove it with no consequence to the function of your ignition.
If the battery has enough juice to crank the engine I would think it has enough to create ignition also. Going on the fact that I have push started my TR {It does have a generator tho} when there wasn`t enough juice in the batt to crank it and it fired right up.
My suspicion is something is stealing the electricity from your coil either the primary {Hot with Key on] or secondary {points side}. A short or open circut would be my best guess. That condenser looking thing looks suspicious to me.
Just my Opinion
Kerry