Grille Disassembly?

[ties581006]

Hello. I am restoring a 1958 BN4 100-6 (50101) and am one year into a 10 year project. I do have some questions about the grille.

The horizontal-slat grille is in decent shape but I'd like to disassemble it, straighten a few distorted pieces, polish every surface and put it back together. It appears that the slats are fastened to the vertical members by small copper rivets.

1. Has anyone removed those rivets and fully disassembled the grille? Recommendations for or against?
2. If so, how did you get the rivets out?
3. Is there a source for replacement rivets and what size did you use?
4. Any tricks to fastening those rivets?

Thank you very much for any replies or suggestions.

Mike T. in Minnesota

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Mike, I did the same thing a few months ago. I purchased a decent grill on eBay and decided to disasemble it so it so I could polish all the surfaces.
I started by removing the rivets by using a drill with bit to remove the back side of the rivet. Once the rolled part of the rivet was removed, I used a small punch to push the rest of the rivet out. I also build a small jig to put in my vise to help remove the rivets. Once all the parts were disassembled, I used a drill mounted buffing pad to polish them. When I reassembled the parts, I Used small bolts and nuts instead of rivets. Part of the reason was that the bolts and nuts were much easier to use and also the thought that if I wanted to disasemble the grill again in the future, it would be a piece of cake.
I was very pleased with the results. You can see how well it turned out.
Rob

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Think it would be easier to get a different grill. I have a good one I can sell you.
PM me if interested.
Marv

 

[ties581006]

Thanks for the replies.

Rob, my initial instinct is to keep it as original as possible. But, this won't be concours so your approach makes sense. Unless someone else responds with information on how they did copper rivets and where they got them, I'll copy what you did. Thank you for sharing.

Marv, the offer is appreciated but this grille is decent shape. Some minor bending and lots of polishing on the underside of the slats will get it where it needs to be. Certainly, it would be quicker to replace the entire assembly but I'm not in a hurry and enjoy restoring every little bit and piece.

Happy motoring.

Mike

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Mike, I'm not sure where you could find the copper rivets, but I think you will need some sort of special pliers-like tool to crimp them. There is not much room between the slats to work. I have some more photos of the process I used, but they're on my home computer and that's three days away. I post them when I get home.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Mike, I found the photos on my iPad, so I've attached a few. I forgot I used a Dremmel with a metal cutoff wheel and not a drill to remove the rivets. Also I included a shot of the jig I used to punch out the rivets. Hope these help. I think it took me about 4 to 6 hours to disasemble, Polish and reassemble.

 

[Griz]

Wow! Beautiful job Rob!

Griz

 

[Jim 58 BN6]

Mike, I found the photos on my iPad, so I've attached a few. I forgot I used a Dremmel with a metal cutoff wheel and not a drill to remove the rivets. Also I included a shot of the jig I used to punch out the rivets. Hope these help. I think it took me about 4 to 6 hours to disasemble, Polish and reassemble.

Guys, this is really helpful since I have the same task ahead (just one of MANY). The pictures really help, thanks!

 

[CaptRandy]

Rob, besides the buffer what compound or cleaned did you use to get the grime and grit off? I have used Flitz and Never Dull but wonder if anyone has a better product.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Here's a few more with some before and after photos.

 

[ties581006]

Wow!! Now I'm really inspired. Great work, Rob, and great pix. Thanks again.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

I used a liquid chrome polish, the standard kind you find in auto parts stores. Nothing fancy. I applied it with 00 steel wool. Maybe did it twice and then used a cloth buffing pad attached to an electric 3/8 " drill held in a vise. Used both the red and white compound that came with the buffing kits. I don't remember in which order, or if one worked better than the other but I suspect I used the courser one first. Finally I used semichrome before I reasembled the pieces.
I was very happy the results and after hours of body work and stipping parts, having shiney pieces was a great joy.

 

[CaptRandy]

Rob. one other thing what is semichrome? Not familiar with that term. Sounds like my Flitz is like the liquid chrome polish.

 

[58 special]

Use stainless nuts and bolts on reassembly.

 

[Deleted member 19315]

Good Job ...that's me inspired and ready to take apart my 56 grill while the main car is off for paint.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Actually the polish is Simichrome. It's from Germany I think and is suppose to be very good, at least it costs a bunch. I have a hard time telling if some products are worth the price, but I had it on hand and used it. It available at auto parts dealers.
No I didn't use stainless nuts and bolts but probably should have although were I live, corrosion is not a problem. I did put a drop of thread lock on each bolt.
Glad if this inspired some of you to give this a try. I've gained so much confidence by reading posts on this forum. I'm delighted to be able to share something in return.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Actually the polish is Simichrome. It's from Germany I think and is suppose to be very good, at least it costs a bunch. I have a hard time telling if some products are worth the price, but I had it on hand and used it. It available at auto parts dealers.
No I didn't use stainless nuts and bolts but probably should have although were I live, corrosion is not a problem. I did put a drop of thread lock on each bolt.
Glad if this inspired some of you to give this a try. I've gained so much confidence by reading posts on this forum. I'm delighted to be able to share something in return.

Indeed! I sourced that aftermarket Amco grill for my car, because I couldn't clean up the original wavy-bar grill to look decent! I too may revisit that project.

Hardware in that small of a size (either 4-40 or 6-32nds?) would be inexpensive enough to spring for stainless steel, and likewise, the use of Nylok locknuts. Much cheaper to buy in boxes of 100 pieces than at the local ACE HDWR store; nearly EVERY town has a fastener supplier in it, and even mail-order shipping something that small will beat individual retail pricing.

 

[steveg]

FMW fasteners has a lot of stuff:
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/

 

[CessnaTPA]

Great post, I just came on here to look up options for making your grille look new again. On my to do list now.

 

[Bobbydsport]

If I were to do it I would also go the stainless screw route. But for info purposes I think copper rivets are used in the making of some leather goods such as saddles, holsters, etc.

Bobbyd