Front End Stripped and Questions

[John Moore]

Hey guys, I got to work on my '61 BE for the first time in a long while. I got the front end stripped but ran into a bit of a problem. The LH spring pan came right off with no problems. However, when I got to the right side, the rear trunion bolt wouldn't come out so I wacked it a few times with a BFH and unfortunately, damaged the front hole (see photo). I figured out later that the metal bushing liners had siezed onto the bolt and made it oversized. I'm hoping that when I get the shell back from the soda blaster that I will be able to flatten this back out and weld it up... thoughts?

Also, after much consideration, I'm thinking that I will take it to a pro Soda Blaster rather than buying the Eastwood system. I'm hoping they will do a better job and that will help speed up my resto. Also, blasting is messy and time consuiming work. Thoughts?

Today, I'm planning on dropping the rear end. I've never worked with a 1/4 elip, rear end so any hints or tips will be appreciated. Also, I would like to get the windshield off, but the bolts seems frozen in place. I can get PB Blaster on the ones closest to the cockpit, but I can't see to get to the underside of the front ones. Any tips? I was thinking about putting a screwdriver tip on my impact wrench!

 

[John Moore]

Here's a photo of me test fitting the rotissary on the front half of the stripped bay. FUN! lol!

 

[Blackjokr]

WOW! Looks like you're doing a heck of a job! I recently heard of soda blating vs. Sand blasting...gotta read up on the difference..maybe I'll make a post of it!

 

[apbos]

John
Went through this earlier in the year. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/394830/Re_Rear_Axle_Removal#Post394830

Not hard if everything is not frozen. Use the PB blaster first!

Paul

 

[John Moore]

Soda Blasting is much easier on the panels and supposably doesn't warp them, but it doesn't remove rust. For that you need sand or another media.

Paul,

Thanks for the link. I read that section in the Bentley and it sounded easy! lolol But I didn't know if there were any gotchas waiting for me.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Using the correct bit on the windshield is helpful.

If the rear spring hangers are REALLY rusted then you might want to go ahead and cut them out and sand blast everything so you can find some solid metal to work from.

 

[John Moore]

Trevor,

Do you mean the shackels? Or nuts on the bottom?

 

[John Moore]

Using the correct bit on the windshield is helpful.

I have that sized phillips bit. I'm suprised they are not pozi drive and it's too bad they aren't as my phillips cams out.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Hmmm... mine were pozi and came right out.


I'm talking about cutting out the complete spring hanger section. Give some good hard jabs around the area and see how solid it is. I'd hate for you to spend a weekend trying to get those springs out and then discover that the metal all around it is paper thin.

 

[John Moore]

Mine definitely weren't pozi. I guess a DPO changed them out, but fortunately, I got them out with a good #4 phillips and the windshield is now safely in my basement.

I'll definitely poke around the spring boxes with a screw driver. wish me luck! I would hate to have to replace those suckers. But nothing would suprise me with this car.

 

[John Moore]

WOOO HOO! I got the rear end out. Yes, that was pretty easy, fortunately no bolts stuck or seized. I also poked around the spring hangers on the back shelf, so far so good, tho' the floor pan is rotted in that area. Now I just need to find a 3.9 on the chunk, that would make a happy day.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If the floor pan is rotted around the spring plate, then I'd be highly suspicious of the spring boxes. Do you have the springs out yet?

 

[John Moore]

If the floor pan is rotted around the spring plate, then I'd be highly suspicious of the spring boxes. Do you have the springs out yet?

Nope, but I plan to shortly. I'll keep you posted.

 

[64rocksprite]

John, agreed with Trevor..unfortunately I too had bad floor pans around the area of the 'spring base plate' (Moss# 455-580 or #19)
If you want/need to check on the floor, those base plates are held on to the floor with about 4-8 spot welds and then have a weld bead at the back to the floor pans. I cut the beads and then used a cold chisel/BFH..hindsight, I would try to locate the spots and drill them out. My one plate had 4 welds, the other side had about 8!

I suspected the worst..and it wasn't as bad as I thinking, but really check the spring pocket, toward the front of the car, in the lower corners. If there are pinholes or its thin, then you'll need to poke around the upright (#18) inside the car..the piece that ties the bulkhead to the floor beam. Right where that piece makes the right angle (and spring base plate bolts to).

Also, check the 'valleys' of the floor pan below the channel that runs from front to back..the rest of my pans were perfect..but the areas below the channel..were paper thin.

Hopefully - you have no rust! (and are luckier than us!)

While we're on it:
Anyone come up with a slick way to keep water/dirt out of the spring boxes on these 1/4 elliptic cars? I'm afraid if I make a cover, it will just trap more crud and have (maybe) the same or worse effect. Of all the things on these cars that are designed well..the spring hangers are just a rust magnet!!

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Make a cover that can be easily removed for semi annual cleanings.

 

[leecreek]

Could get it as clean as you wanted and try some foam filler...

 

[PeterC]

Just run a tube from inside the tunnel over to the spring boxes. The ambient oiling should help....



Peter

 

[bugimike]

:lol: :lol: Good idea though!!! :wink:

 

[John Moore]

Thanks Guys! I'll keep you posted. I have bought new floor plans so I was planning to removed the spring bottoms anyway.

BTW - I scored some Bugeye seat frames today for $100! yay! My DPO had replaced the original seats with those from a late model midget.

 

[jlaird]

you'll have more room now, and they sit well.