Finishing the seams

[Jim_Gruber]

Pics of Bugsy, rear quarter panel repair. Panels on both sides plus panel behind door were simple tack welded in place. I'm thinking I need to finish welding these panels with a stitch well and then lots of grinding. I don't think seam sealer is called for. Lots of small welds with the MIG and then grind flat. Here's what I've got. Need some advice. Thanks Green stuff is aviation restoration primer, red stuff, well rust on surface.

 

[Gerard]

Not an expert on this topic, but I believe the correct way to do this is the flange on or both side and lap the edges so the panel is flush. You'd probably have to take these apart to do that, so maybe just try to clean up what's been started already.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

How lucky Gerard. In the rust belt, you'd get all sort of experience with this.

I strongly suggest NOT to flange. If those panels have overlap, then they will need to be removed. If they do not have overlap and you're OK with the fit then they can be finished. If there is no gap and the panels are butted against each other tight, then oxy-acetylene weld them or tig them. If they are fitted with a 1/16" or so gap, them you can mig weld them.

 

[BlueMax]

To minimize warping in the metal maintaining a cleaner look I chose to butt weld with the Mig welder. Pick up a package of butt welding clamps from Harbor Freight leaving the 1/16 gap between the two pieces of metal. You will find if you have compress air will aide in keeping the area cool to prevent warping. I like to lay three of four spot welds then having the air close for quick cooling of metal. I like to move around as I work my way up to the clamps. If you cannot get accesses to opposite side utilizing the clamps then you will have to use strong magnets to hold the piece in place. Also keep a spray bottle of water to keep the metal chilled. If you do it right you will only see metal turning blue about a 1/4” on each side of your weld.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Guys, panels are already attached with a significant number of welds. Alignment is really good but the seams were never finished. In some cases like behind the doorpanels are overlapped. Behind the fenders there is a gap as things are butted end to end. I like the idea of strong welding magnets ot pull the panels close together. Gaps are really tiny, but if a light is held behind you can see light showing through. Thinking magnets to pull and possible panel mismatch closer together, again gaps are really small but there. Lots of small spot welds blend togetehr to fill in the gaps and then grind, grind, grind.

Surface prep, some sort of metal prep to remove any surface rust, really nothing as green primer has kept any rust in check. Those areas where paint was stripped by scaping it appears do have surface rust. Car was garaged for 28 years but taking anything to bare metal and then not priming or painting in spots not a good thing.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

OK Jim, it sounds like you can finish welding those seams that are butted. If there is a bulge then you may want to do some metal shrinking to pull it closer before welding, although stitch weld causes shrinking as well (just hard to control with hard mig welds).

Personally, I'd remove all panel laps that are not "factory". It is just asking for rust to creep through in a few years. I have a lap joint on my midget from a previous repair shop (before I bought the car). On cool days you can not see it, but on hot days the metal expands just enough that you can see the line.

 

[jjscott]

A suggestion: The spot welds are already holding the pieces in alignment. Use a good cutoff wheel in a moto tool and cut right at the seam through both layers of metal. Do this between the spots leaving the spots in place. The cutoff wheel will give you about a 1/16 gap. If the panels are out of aligment tap in place as best you can. You will have to get to the back side to remove the lapped part; that would appear to take some figuring as to how to do.

Then weld the seam. Back with a piece of copper held with a magnet if necessary. Then do the same thing through the spot welds. Grind off the excess, align and weld. You will go through a lot of the dremel wheels.

I agree with everyone else about getting rid of the lapped seams.

JIm

 

[BlueMax]

One last thing, with lap welds you will loose the true body lines of the car. You will have to compensate for the lap with ether body filler or lead for blending, that’s why I prefer the butt weld, owner’s decision of course. Butt welding is harder and one must be familiar with their welder and their welding skills; lap welding is the easiest for the quick jobs.

HTH

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Thanks Guys, At this point working on the seams behind the wheels is down the road. Area where I have overlap is behind doors and I have the same issue on the nose as a new area over the Grille area was tack welded in and seams overlap. I'll provide some pics on that area as well. Area is flat and well aligned and laid over the top of the older metal. Will need to be filled with some material, Bondo or something a little more exotic from Eastwood.