Directional Signal Failure

[RDKeysor]

The directional signals on my '60 BN7 have quit. Quit one time, briefly resumed function, then quit for good. Clues? I've been through the usual wiring/bulb checks w/o any resolution.

Turning to the Haynes manual, p. 166, item 29, flasher circuit, I ran tests b and c with the ignition on and the directional lever turned. I got no result, which the manual tells me suggests the flasher is not dead.

I also put a test light on all three flasher poles, ignition on, directional lever tried both on an off, and got a test light on each. Unfortunately, my 8-pole brake switch relay wiring bears look [no?] resemblance to the one in the Haynes manual, making understanding the wiring pretty challenging. I've also consulted the illustrations Norman Nock's "Tech Talk", p. 280.

Since the signals have always worked with the existing wiring connections, something else must be involved. Any suggestions?

 

[mezy]

I would suggest trying another known good flasher unit

 

[BobHaskell]

The flasher has three connectors - (B)attery - 35 amp fuse, (P)ilot - Dash Indicator Light and (L)amp - DB10 connector 1. Disconnect the B and L leads from the flasher and connect them together. Turn on the ignition and switch on the right or left turn signal. The lamps on that side should light. If so, the wiring is okay.

Don't leave the ignition on with the engine not running for very long.

 

[RDKeysor]

Thanks Jedi Warrior. I just ran your suggested test and did not get a light, ignition on and direction tab turned l and r. Did make a significant discovery while looking at connector B. The wire was connected by just a couple of strands, getting my hopes up. I trimmed the wire, fitted a new connector and connected B & L with the result mentioned. Next move?

You mentioned making sure not to leave the ignition switch in the on position, excellent advice. A decade ago I installed a Petronix (sic?) electrical ignition on a 3.8 Jag MK2. I had read about those things burning up if incorrectly installed or the ignition left turned on. I was scared to death when I first switched on the Jag, but I had seemingly installed the device correctly. I believe that is the same system on my BN7.

I want to remind that I had power at all three flasher connections before doing the test Jedi suggested. Another member suggested replacing the flasher, but my car's failure using Jedi's test tells me I have a wiring issue, one that emerged spontaneously. Thanks all.

 

[BobHaskell]

See if you have power on the B wire at the flasher with the ignition on. Volt meter or test lamp. Could try connecting the B and P wires together to see if the dash indicator lights.

 

[RDKeysor]

Thanks for the suggestion. As mentioned in my first post, I was surprised that I had power at each of the flasher posts with the ignition on. I'm sure I also connected the B and P wires, a suggested test, earlier. I will try that again later today. I did the connection with a wire with two alligator clips, lifting the wire connector just a tad and clipping to the flasher post. I'll give it another try later today.

 

[Jack T]

Thanks for the suggestion. As mentioned in my first post, I was surprised that I had power at each of the flasher posts with the ignition on. I'm sure I also connected the B and P wires, a suggested test, earlier. I will try that again later today. I did the connection with a wire with two alligator clips, lifting the wire connector just a tad and clipping to the flasher post. I'll give it another try later today.

Have you checked for continuity through the trafficator switch?

 

[RDKeysor]

I have now tested with wires B and P connected, switch on, turn signal selected. No light at the green dash-mounted signal light. As I reported, I had also run this test with B and L connected and did not get the light that shows signal operation. But I continue to have power at all three flasher posts. Can you give me a tip on how to access the trafficator switch wiring? The current Healey Marque has a trafficator article, showing the wires exposed with the Bakelite center cap on the steering wheel seemingly pulled out of its hub. How is this removed given the obvious fear it can be fractured? By the way, thanks for staying with this puzzle.

 

[Jack T]

There are connectors at the end of the steering column that you can access. You might have to remove the grille or from underneath if you have a lift. I wouldn’t mess with the head unit unless you determine the problem is there.

 

[RDKeysor]

Where to begin. My turn signal function has returned. Following your suggestion, I used a 12-V circuit tester of the type that protrudes a needle point on the wires emerging from the olive nut at the bottom of the steering box. Though it may seem relevant, I'll add that this car has a Smitty Toyota gearbox, meaning the overdrive is absent. But the overdrive throttle switch remains. I wasn't getting a light on the tester as I pressed it into the wiring bundle below the olive night and suspected I wasn't getting a good round. I had been using the lower electrical connector on the overdrive switch (it doesn't have a wire attached) as the ground for my other test light while checking the flasher light. But I now inadvertently then connected the ground wire to the upper connector on the throttle switch, which still has a wire connected for some reason, at which point a curl of smoke emerged under the car, the 50-Amp fuse blew, and I heard the flasher clicking as I rushed to shut off the ignition. I replaced the fuse, corrected the ground to the lower overdrive connector, got a test light working. The turn signals now began working???? Another puzzle. Earlier had pried lightly around the Bakelite piece surrounding the horn button hoping remove it to check the turn signal switch wires underneath. I didn't get it open, and after forum member caution to abandon that approach and checked the wires at the olive nut instead, I didn't mess with the Bakelite piece again. But now, to my surprise, I find the directional switch has rotated to where it is at 11 a.m. and resists my effort to turn it back to the standard 12 o'clock position. I think I'll live with that. Thanks for helping resolve this puzzling episode. Maybe.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

The bakelite switch--aka a trafficator--is clamped in place by an olive, secured by a brass nut, on the front of the steering box (where the trafficator wiring harness emerges). Loosen the nut on the olive--not too much, or you'll lose fluid--rotate the trafficator switch to 12 o'clock then tighten the olive (have someone hold the trafficator as it will want to rotate when you tighten the nut). Also, leave a small gap between the trafficator and the steering wheel hub, lest the trafficator rub on the hub when you turn the wheel.

Olives:

 

[RDKeysor]

A perfect explanation of how my turn or directional control at the center of the steering wheel was displaced from its normal and correct 12 o'clock position to 11 a.m., it was that pesky olive nut that I retorqued during my search for the cause of my failed turn signals. I was sent to this place in my search by our respondent, and I am wiser for that. After loosening the olive nut (again), I may, of course, have to have my dear wife hold the turn signal lever in position while I snug the nut. Probably not as challenging as getting your wife to pump the brake pedal to assist you in bleeding your brakes, but risky. So smart of Jedi not to venture an explanation of how my turn signals came alive after reading my chaotic, and that is being generous, surely flawed tale of the chain of events. Thanks so much. I hope this whole thing is of value to other Healey owners who find themselves challenged by these very simple mechanisms, simple by today's standards. They do keep the British Car Forum in business.

 

[Jack T]

Glad you got it resolved. Way to stick with it. Electrical problems are often simply the result of a poor ground connection.