Cast Aluminum Oil Pan

[gsable]

Hi Folks,
Happy New Year!
I am considering replacing my beat-up oil pan with a cast aluminum one, but the idea of a cast part that sits low to the ground scares the heck out of me. I have been told that the cast pan actually provides structural integrity to the engine. Anyone have any experience with the cast aluminum pans?

 

[GregW]

I haven't driven my car enough to pass judgement. It doesn't hang down very far though. I think other things would hit the ground first.

 

[Dave Russell]

I have a DWR cast oil sump. It is a bit shorter inside than the original, so with the fins, doesn't set any lower. The oil pickup needs to be shortened accordingly. Bottom is about the same level as the side frame members.

Not to say it hasn't been scraped a couple of times but it is much stronger than the original & will accept some scraping with no ill effects.
D

 

[zblu]

From unhappy experience mine suffered a serious rip to the drain plug area after catching on a high driveway, sounds like these ali ones might sit up a bit more in chassis

 

[RonMacPherson]

I kinda question it increasing the "structural rigidity" of a pretty solid lump of a motor.

Alfa used to use this design. The resolution was a pan guard of heavy gauge slats, braced together and bolted under the front valance, kind of like a lower end "cow catcher".

 

[Dave Russell]

From unhappy experience mine suffered a serious rip to the drain plug area after catching on a high driveway, sounds like these ali ones might sit up a bit more in chassis

Also the drain plug is located high enough on the side to avoid damage if the sump does scrape.

Don't know about the structural rigidity part, but the pan rail flanges are thick, flat, & distortion free.
D

 

[gsable]

Thanks all,
I am going to go with the cast aluminum pan since nobody seems too concerned about it cracking.
Gary

 

[HandyAndy]

I am curious about the baffles in the DWR aluminum sump. Are the holes at the bottom of the baffles enough for autocross work with slicks? I would hate to lose an engine to lack of oil.I know it will not crack and is actually safer than the steel original.

Handy Andy

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Andy,
Welcome to BCF.

There are oil return holes at the bottom of the front & rear vertical baffles. There is return space around the front & rear horizontal baffles. I've never had any indication of oil starvation with some pretty hard cornering, braking, & acceleration.

Since DWR races these engines quite actively, I suspect that they would have detected and corrected any G force oil supply problems. See attached pics.
Regards,
D

 

[HandyAndy]

Thank you Dave. Both you and Reid have mentioned the engineering that went into the development of the pan. I feel a little better entrusting an expensive engine to the fates now. Did I read somewhere that you have to shorten the oil pickup screen to fit properly? Humm!

Andy

 

[Dave Russell]

On my BN2 I had to shorten the pickup tube and the screen per DW dimensions. The screen was spot welded to the top & bottom flanges. I cut the welds, trimmed the screen, & spot brazed it back on.

See attached pic which also shows the more reliable pump to block feed line. The stock copper line has been know to fatigue fracture more than once. Instant loss of oil pressure!
D

 

[HandyAndy]

Well, golly, gee, whiz bang; I got the sump from Norman Nock and received no instructions with it. I am very glad I asked. Thank you. Good grief!

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Andy,
I suggest that you get the modification instructions from Norman or from DWR. The pump pickup tube needs to be shortened but also keep the original end of tube contour. Also the rear main bearing cap oil drain tube will need to be shortened or removed if you use the rear horizontal pan baffle.

DWR said that after the pickup was shortened, to just "mash" the pickup screen enough to fit in the pan. Too crude for me! - Can't believe they said such a thing. Thus my removing the screen, properly narrowing it, & reattaching.

I would by all means, replace the copper pump to block line with the DWR flex line as previously mentioned. Michael Oritt can tell you what happens if the copper line fractures. Copper is subject to vibration induced work hardening/fracture & a very poor choice for such a critical application. Especially a 50 year old line.

I still prefer most DWR parts & the end result is very good. However, many of their parts 'DO" require some special fitting.
D

 

[tahoe healey]

Will the oil dip stick need to be altered?

 

[Dave Russell]

No - the oil level in the sump needs to be the same as original. This means that the sump will require about one quart less oil to fill than originally.
D

 

[HandyAndy]

Dave,

This is getting curiouser and curiouser. Years ago I made my own oil line to replace the copper tube. The larger aluminum AN fittings are almost an exact thread. It now looks like I will have to shorten it.

And I am glad you mentioned the rear down pipe as you can't "smash" this one to fit. And upon looking at the fittings kit (bolts for the pan) the threads look like Whitworth and of course I tapped them out 40 years ago for U.S. standard fine.

Thanks again for the words of wisdom.

Andy

 

[bighly]

I have an alloy sump and have had no issues. Mine came from AH Spares about 5 years ago.