BT7 restoration, Where to start and sill reinforcement

[Mcfish]

Hi there
i imported a 1959 bt7 back to the UK from San Fran a couple of years ago and have just started getting to grips with it now my garage is finished.
Having read a lot about what to do there is little advice as to what order it should be done in. I have removed front and rear shrouds and the interior and now have to decide wether to pull the engine and transmission and then get the shell blasted. Or should I leave it in and take out the floors to check the main chassis rails and then do the sill replacements and boot floor then remove the engine etc prior to blasting to identify other areas to repair.

Whilst replacing the sills is there a fool proof way of bracing the tub to ensure no movement to maintain the door gaps as I appreciate that they are prone to move if not very careful, similar to my MG in that regard.

i have also read reports about reinforcing the sills with square tubing to prevent the deadly sagging. Anyone have any experience of this as to wether it is worthwhile.

Many thanks



This could be the start of a long journey. Bring it on!

 

[healeyblue]

I simply welded in square tubing at a diagonal from the firewall to the rear floor corner when I did ours. It held the dimensions just fine. When I was done and certain all was still good, I simply cut them out and ground the welds down. Be sure to allow the doors to be put on so you can constantly check gaps during your sill replacement.

 

[andrea]

for door reinforcement -there are two options for stronger sils - supposing that yours are rust corroded as usual ( my sills are near to be disappeared)
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...39ccDallaNorthCarolinaUSA#5194382663836161346
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...39ccDallaNorthCarolinaUSA#5194383698923279762
and after a lot of works
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...MayJune2011endMayJune2013#5618496664628506658

a) build a copy of the originals but with more thickness (1,5mm) this is the choice of Mauro my coachbuilder

b) put inside the sill one or two square tubing ( the problem is the weld it to the sill - with minimum 20 welding points)
one of the square tubing must be in the lower part of the sills

The first option is not easy -but works (some metal shops can build it from a diagram) and is effective, my car is very strongly on the road, flat and without torsion movements

 

[Mcfish]

Hi all
Thanks for the info, it now gives me the way ahead.
i will jack the car complete with major components onto its suspension points and then brace it with square tubing as described.

Thankfully the sills available in the UK are 1.5mm anyway (must be something to do with the rain) so I will review the additional strenghening as I start putting it back together.

I will ill let you know how I get on.