TR2/3/3A Boiling engine block and head

[John_Progess]

It is my understanding that the boiling out process for an engine block is done with a hot caustic solution. This will dissolve any aluminum parts so you need to remove any aluminum. The engine block has two aluminum plugs in the oil gallery and an aluminum threaded plug in the head. Do all these plugs need to be removed prior to boiling or will they be ok? I have already removed the cam shaft rear plug. Thanks and have a good day!

John

 

[DNK]

Are you doing it ,...or a shop?

 

[TR3driver]

No particular reason to remove them. The boiling out process will destroy them anyway, and they can't be reused even if you remove them first.

But with a TR2-4 block, there isn't a lot of point to boiling it out anyway. Unlike most engines, with the wet liners out, you can easily clean the water jacket mechanically.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Fully agree with Randall. If your engine didn't have a issue of running hot before, then you won't need to have it boiled out.

Marv

 

[Jerry]

Many shops have 2 different soaking solutions. One for steel/cast iron blocks, and one for Aluminum parts. If you tell them, they will use the right soaker and you won't have to worry about the plugs. But as previous stated on this forum, I would replace the plugs anyway and use some sealant on the replacements.
Jerry

 

[charleyf]

For my last engine rebuild I took out the liners and physically cleaned the interior of the block. Nothing like good dirty work to make sure the job is done right. There is plenty of acess to the interior of the block for this job.
Charley

 

[TomMull]

All the plugs need to be removed for final cleaning and to insure no leaks. The shop that does mine removes and replaces them for me. Tom

 

[spitfirebill]

I didn't know any shops still did hot tanking.