BE Steering Bracket Packing & Toe Plate?

[erstearns]

Anyone have a source for the steering rack clamp packing or know of a suitable alternative? I guess also for the packing at the top column mount also?

I was reading thru the procedure for rack alignment and there is reference to a toe plate with three bolts. What is it? Can't find it in any diagram and don't recall anything of the sort when dismantling.

 

[Whitephrog]

AH Spares P/N XSTG159 Seating - Rack to mounting bracket $1.52
Moss Europe P/N 2A6128 Seat - rack to bracket $1.10

 

[bill_young]

I've heard that gasket paper makes a good shim for the rack mount clamps. It comes in different thickness and is waterproof. Try the thinnest first and then add layers or a thicker paper until you get a good fit without over clamping or you risk cracking the clamps. Never heard of the toe plate though, that's a new one for me. What manual are you reading for the alignment? If it's also for a later car (72-up) then it may be refering to the small plate on the lower sectiion of that steering column where it attaches to the firewall. To properly align the steering on those cars that should be loosened to allow the steering shaft to move in alignment with the rack.

 

[erstearns]

Thanks Ray, will remember to add them to my list of suppliers when searching for parts.

 

[erstearns]

Think you are right Ray, probably refers to a later model. The offending manual is a Haynes and covers multiple years and models. Will gather up some gasket paper to supplement the parts Ray referred me to.

Thanks all.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

You might also consider making copper shims with hobby type copper from the local hobby shop. Comes in various thickness and gasket is simple and can be cut / punched out. Please follow the procedure as if not followed you'll find the rack sticks and does not turn. It sticks also at the worst possible moment. I won't go into that story but needless to say if not done right could cause you major issues. As I recall shims used to be available but at this point are a NLA item. And shims were far thinner that cardboard gaskets. Thicknesses like .010 as I recall and .025 or somewhere in that range. Could be stacked to get to the correct dimensions needed per the procedures in the manual.

 

[erstearns]

Thanks Jim. Will follow the alignment procedure as best I can.

I took the brass endcap to the pinion off to clean it up. For whatever reason it does not want to go back in. Can't really figure what might have moved to cause this.

I buffed it up on a wire wheel, might have heated up and expanded slightly. Will scratch my head and try again later.

 

[Whitephrog]

Be patient with the brass fitting. I had the same issue. Took a while but then went together easily. Can't remember for sure but there might be a front and back to align.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

One other thought while you've got it apart. I replaced the pinion gear on Bugsy my '68 Sprite while I had things apart. There are several pinion gears but the ones for '68, '69 were relatively cheap like < $10.00 when I reduild the front end 8-9 years ago. Later ones for the Triumph Rack are expensive but for the earlier racks again relatively cheap when I bought mine. It did appreciably reduce front end sway and play and improved steering feel. While you are in there renewing all other parts this is a might as well thing to do.

Remember to replace the bolt that attaches the column to the steering rack. This is a similar alignment fit like the trunion bolts. And use a steel locking nut on the end not a nylock.

Other tips, I replaced the rack bolts but make sure you've got the exact size. Those bolts bottom out and if bolts are too long rack clamps will not tighten properly and rack will be moving around all over the place. Clean out those holes with a bottoming tap, all sorts of crud gets in there. I lines both sides of the rack base and rack clamps with pieces of inner tube glued to the clamps. Ideally do only one side as this is where you get the ground for the horn through this connection.

Don't overtighten the rack bolts. That's aluminum you are bolting to and you don't want to strip things out.

Steering column upper fixing bolts 12-17 Ft/lbs
Steering column pinch bolt 9-12 Ft/lbs
Steering rack housing clamp bolts 20-22 Ft/lbs
Steering rack mounting bracket bolts 17-18 Ft/lbs
Tie rod ball joint nut 28-32 Ft/lbs
Tie rod end assembly locknut 30-35 Ft/lbs
Tie rod rack locknut 80 Ft/lbs

Hope this helps.

 

[erstearns]

Ready for some paint and back together. Ray, did notice that the fitting is not symmetrical, one ear is longer than the other. With a "little" tap went back in smoothly.

Jim, Thanks for the torques and tips.

Eric

 

[Jim_Gruber]

That's from a list of useful info I've saved in a Word file over the last 8 years. Everytime I see something useful I know I'll need to remember some day including things like pics that have been posted here for example proper assembly of rear brake shoes. Stuff you don't do very often, I simply add to a Word Document. So far that document is over 120 pages long. A little cut and paste and the Spridget Tips file continues to grow.