Anybody used....

[lesingepsycho]

...the Duplicolor Paint Shop System. It's a lacquer based, no mix, ready to use, primer-base-clear paint setup that I've seen at the local parts house and on TV.

I'm a professional woodworker and I've used LOTS of nitrocellulose lacquer on my woodworking projects and lacquer is definitely my favorite finish for woodworking because I can lay it on smooth, "burn-in" the layers and buff it out to a true mirror finish.

I was considering this 'lacquer based' paint system for the Midget and I was curious if anyone had any experience or information about it; i.e. actual ease of use, durability, end look. I'm trying to sell the Midget and I'm not getting anybody to so much as <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">look</span></span> at the car so long as it's in primer. It doesn't need to be show quality, but good enough to not turn away a potential buyer.

Finally, i'm a little bit concerned about "ghosting" or "clouding" that occurs when you shoot lacquer in a cold environment. I can usually bring my woodworking pieces into the spray booth at work, but it's meant only for furniture and can't handle a car which means I'm stuck trying to shoot in my waytoosmall unheated garage in the winter. Anyone have any experience there? I know Rick had a thread recently about doing work with rattle cans and hair dryers. I'm wondering if anyone has any advice there.

Thanks,

JACK

 

[RichBall]

Jack

I can't speak about the paint, but there is a paint booth for rent out in Beaverton that might work for you.

https://www.beckersauto.com/Services_paint_booth.htm

I also read that Mount Hood Community College might have a booth for rent.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Hey I painted Bugsy in January in Ohio using Rustoleum thinned 50% and a foam roller. Technique works amazingly well and with some buffing can shine up nicely. Technique is to build up successive layers allowing paint to outgas, paint to be smoothly applied with a real light touch, allow paint to dry 20 minutes, and then go back with an extra light touch to smooth out and runs or drips. Fairly good shine even unbuffed and touch up is a breeze. If primers is good and sanded smooth, in 4 days = 4 coats you could be in Rustoleum BRG. Looks really good on Bugsy.Total cost pack of 6 superfine cabinet grade finish 4" foam rollers, handle, Pint of Mineral Spirits, Quart of Rustolum < 25.00. Here is a picture of Bugsy, before BE Bonnet, after 3 coats of Rustoleum. No not a showroom shine but pretty good even from 5 feet. Google Rustoleum Paint Job for other details and testimonials.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

BTW, Bonnet, Fenders, Fascia, and Grille are looking for a new home now that Bugsy looks like this. Open to offers. Parts in Dayton, OH

 

[lesingepsycho]

Wow Jim, Bugsy looks really good in those pics. That's what I'm talking about. I just need to get my car into some color if I stand any chance of selling it. Right now I already stand to lose <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">thousands</span></span> of dollars selling it so the last thing I need to do is put too much money into paint. Every dollar I spend now is just money I'll never see again. Oh well, I guess that's what makes it a 'hobby' and not a 'job'.

But if that's what a paint job looks like from a January in Ohio I should be able to get something reasonable done in Oregon! Thanks!

JACK

 

[dklawson]

I'm sorry I do not have the link to the previous thread, but the Duplicolor paint system was discussed on this board within the past year or so. That previous thread included a link to a lengthy thread on another web site. I cannot provide all the information but the summary was that the Duplicolor system was not very good for reasons ranging from general quality of the product to color fading. However, consider my comments hearsay and Google for first hand comments from others.

Lacquer is very forgiving for any DIY paint job so I can understand your interest. The last two paint jobs I have done were 2-part urethane. The two before that used acrylic enamel with hardener. Each system has its advantages. If you wish to stay with lacquer, Google for TCP Global and visit their web site. I believe they still offer quality automotive lacquer. With the proper reducer and spraying when humidity is low you should be able to keep that clouding to a minimum.

 

[startech47]

Might check with the local High Schools. They painted my sons 79 Midget for $25.00. I supplied the materials and had all of the prep done. They just sprayed it. They did a great job.

 

[mightymidget]

The lacquer.for get it.

Go to a local paint store and pick a color for base coat clear coat system, choose a color that is not exspensive as in red or black, No metallics. A simple white yellow green blue.
Spray a premix base coat, if you get any runs sand out and re-coat area messed up, sand in. then clear coat. They can premix for cold weather.
You will just need to be patient and lets coats of clear tach before next coat
Use the cheapest paint they have if you are gonna sell. it will be good for a couple of years or so

 

[TomMull]

I basically agree with mightymidget, but am not quite so negative about the lacquer. Color coat clear coat is the best (and in my opinion easiest) way to get a professional looking finish (looks is everything) but the lacquer is not totally unreasonable, particularly if you are used to it. If you do go the lacquer route, take a good look at what is underneath as the lacquer does not like enamel. Tom

 

[jsfbond]

Keep in mind that when you go from color to clear (after the appropriet flash time) mix the clear according to directions and pour that into the gun to "wash" the rest of the color out of the gun. This gives you a first coat of clear that is tinted. It adds to the color and gives a midcoat effect. Best argument for using a whole paint/brand system when you do a vehicle.