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steering racks
- Thread starter markberry
- Start date
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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Pinion Gear simple to change out. That's where a lot of your slop is.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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The cap on the end that serves as the bearing surface for the pinion may also need to be machined and have a new insert installed and reamed.
thanks everyone,
i don't think i have any slop; my steering has become heavy and almost not wanting to recenter after a turn. my front tires are shot so that may be the whole problem, but i was just thinking maybe the rack has suffered some wear over the years. i just thought it wouldn't hurt to have that thing gone through.
mark
i don't think i have any slop; my steering has become heavy and almost not wanting to recenter after a turn. my front tires are shot so that may be the whole problem, but i was just thinking maybe the rack has suffered some wear over the years. i just thought it wouldn't hurt to have that thing gone through.
mark
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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There are spacers and shims to add or remove tension on the rack. I'd look at the manuals to check out aR&R procedures.
woolfman
Freshman Member
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You should check your front axle. Sounds like all your bushes are shot - that´s where the resistance comes from and self-centering also suffers very much if they are worn, plus you have high resistance in steering; replace bushes either with PU or Nylatron ones, offered sets from Moss usually fit without trouble. Also you should check top trunnion shims and washer. Could be that they were set too tight.
After you have done that, your steering should be back at normal. I can tell - I had the same symtpoms and after doing the front axles everything went back to perfect. Its a lot of effort, but definitely worth doing it.
Good points about the axles! I bought new tires yesterday, So I'll investigate the condition of the front end before putting them on and driving. I never feel like I get much grease into all parts of the rack when I pump it through the zerk fitting. I even tried oil one time but it dripped out of the bottom of the rack and made a mess. Maybe I'll try that corn grease I've heard people talk about here.
If your gaiters are good it shouldn't leak out. I've always used 90wt as the book says or 140wt. Oil will get moved around as you drive but I usually give the zerk a few pumps with the wheels turned all the way to the left then a few more with them all the way to the right. Spring service for me.
Kurt
I greased the front end thoroughly, including the steering rack, and put the new tires on for a short drive yesterday. The steering definitely improved but it just feels heavier than it used to. Must've been those dried out, bald tires not biting into the asphalt that made the steering easier
. My gaiters were cracked when I looked over everything, so I ordered some new ones. When I get the tie rods seperated I'll be able to swivel everything independently and check for friction.
thanks for the replies.
mark
. My gaiters were cracked when I looked over everything, so I ordered some new ones. When I get the tie rods seperated I'll be able to swivel everything independently and check for friction.thanks for the replies.
mark
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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as a foot note. I installed a new rack in my Midget. So far, I've only put a few hundred miles on it but it is still stiff. I'm hoping it will loosen up a bit because the car has lost all of its self centering.
Jim_Gruber
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Trevor,
Did you check for shim height. There are shims under that Center Cap and shims need to be of the correct size or rack will be too tight. I know because I reassembled my '68 without enough shims( why are these parts left over and what are they for) and discovered the rack locked up on me when I tried to turn the wheel. There is a procedure in the shop manual IIRC..
Did you check for shim height. There are shims under that Center Cap and shims need to be of the correct size or rack will be too tight. I know because I reassembled my '68 without enough shims( why are these parts left over and what are they for) and discovered the rack locked up on me when I tried to turn the wheel. There is a procedure in the shop manual IIRC..
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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And could be made from Hobby Store type copper sheet if needed and a hole punch.
Trevor Jessie
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Jim, it is a new rack and designed differently from the originals. It may very well need adjustment, but for the moment I'm going wait to see if it is just needing the corners nocked off the gears.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Good luck Trevor. A good time at Road Races at Put In Bay. Watched morning practices on Monday and then the rain came so we called it a day after lunch. Really up close and personal to the race course. Will be back for next year with chairs, cooler, and a camera with a long lens. Just a really neat place to visit.
Trevor, you can be the tester for the new rack's. I've become suspicious of all new parts but for the price they get for them they are tempting. Personally, I have fought getting steering racks perfectly aligned by shimming their mounts. Drag on the steering shaft from not perfect alignment will bind them up.Without nice free steering the whole character of the car changes.
Kurt.
Kurt.
maybe i'll look at steering rack alignment as well when I get everything apart. I don't recall any difficulty in getting the steering wheel shaft to easily slip onto the pinion splined attachment point of the steering rack.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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The thing was stiff before mounting it in the car. I really think it will loosen up with a bit of use. I prefer the slightly heavier steering over the slop of the old rack.
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