Did I find another need for a Whitworth Wrench Set/ Did I screw up intake manifold

Removed Bugsy IV's Steering rack tonight not issues getting it or the steering column separated.I may now have issues getting the steering wheel back on straight but that's another issue. Lesson Learned unbolt the steering wheel before trying top pull the column off of the steering rack.

Anyway, need to replace Rack Boots and while I am at it Tie Rod ends. So is the slot on the outer tie rod end a Whitworth Wrench Sized Fitting. 9/16 to large, 1/2" too small. 13MM no , 14 mm no. Got to be a Whitworth. This rack after all did come off of a Morris Minor. Short of tracking down a proper sized spanner perhaps a BFing Pipe Wrench . Recommendations on getting off the TRE and the Big Nut. Frank C. always used to say 15 1/2 threads exposed. With the Big Nut still on, I count 8 threads exposed on one side and 9 on the other. Marinating overnight in PB Blaster.

On another subject, there are two I now realize Standard threat bolts that hold a piece of copper pipe going to the water heater to the intake manifold. I was putting back together and grabbed a couple of the fine threaded bolts off the floor of the garage that belonged to the radiator bolts and tried to tighten them into the aluminum manifold. Hmm why is that stuck, let me run a 1/4 28 tap in there to clean up the thread. Crap bolt are too long and double crap one just stripped out when it bottomed out. I think all those bolts do is to go into the manifold to hold that pipe on. They don't go into the water jacket. At least I don't think so. Thoughts on fixing gentlemen? A little Blue Locktight with the correct threaded bolts, try to retap as standard, All these two bolts do is hold onto an 8" piece of copper pipe.

I had some rough issues with the big bolt on my right side TREs last year. Can probably find the old thread a few pages in. I ended up using a small pipe wrench initially. After marinating with PB Blaster, hitting it with the largest pipe wrench I could fit in there, torching it, it wouldn't budge. I ended up having to use a cutting wheel on the big bolt to break it. I attacked it at the 10 & 2 O'clock positions on the bolt, taking extreme care not to cut into the tie rod threads. Once I broke the bolt the TRE spun off easily

Almost always you'll find coarse threads in aluminium.
I'd suggest helicoil to fix. Better than new when done.

Hmmm getting access to the manifold will mean taking it off of the engine which I was hoping not to do right now, as this engine will be removed in the Spring in favor of a new 1,326 lump that will be installed. Thinking JB Weld or some Locktite might work as all these bolts do is keep a strap in place to support an 8" piece of Copper pipe that the heater hose attaches to. no real load just keep things in place.

Oh I love CA Cars. Put TR End in the vise, two tugs with the BF Adjustable Wrench and the big nut spun off. Held the inner rack rod with small adjustable box wrench and put big Pipe Wrench on TRE and after two turns around with assistance it spun off 21 turns later. Now to find the TR Ends which were backordered from MOSS in April '14. They shipped 2 weeks later but of course aren't in the same box with the rest of the Front End Parts and pieces I ordered. But at least the PS Side is off and I found the rack boots and clamps to put that back together. Now WTH are those TR Ends.

PS so nice not to need the Blue Flame Wrench on this puppy. It's true I have yet to find rust on this car. It's so nice not to fight RUST 4th Front Suspensions I've taken apart, none has been like this one.

So new Tie Rod Ends are deeper than the OEM Tie Rod Ends by at least a 1/4". I'll assume tighten till I get the same distance 8 threads exposed on the big nut as I had with the old Tie Rod Ends.

OR do I do all of the way till I can't tighten any more. That doesn't sound right as then no room to adjust for Toe In/Out.