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Zinc oil additive from Moss

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jerrybny

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
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I'm wondering what people's opinions are on the zinc oil additive that Moss is selling. Is it worth buying and using regularly? Or is it more snake oil. Thanks
 
There are alot of oils out there that just don't contain the higher levels of ZDDP that oils used to contain to keep flat tappet cams from going belly up. You can still get oils with enough ZDDP in them, but they're getting harder to find. The nice thing about the additive, is that you can just put it into your favorite oil. I bought the stuff and am using it in my TR3. Since I just got done with the restoration, I don't know how effective it is. I'll let you know in a few years! :laugh:

I believe it's the real deal, and feel that the extra bit of protection is worth the price and convenience. I have several bottles of the stuff on the shelf in the garage, right next to the bottles of oil.
 
Bill,
Is that the street version VR1 or the real race version? What levels of ZDDP does the VR1 (street) carry? I have not been able to find the amount.
The race version says not for street use (because of the ZDDP and its effect upon catalytic conv.) but they normally do not carry the chem package required for extended use.
 
You can add TOO MUCH of that stuff and it will have a negative affect. Best to get a good "classic" motor oil with it already formulated in. There are several new blends that all have a proper amount of ZDDP added for our flat tappet engines.
 
Brosky said:
You can add TOO MUCH of that stuff and it will have a negative affect. Best to get a good "classic" motor oil with it already formulated in. There are several new blends that all have a proper amount of ZDDP added for our flat tappet engines.
Click to expand...
Please list them.
 
Last oil change which was last spring i changed my oil with
Quaker State 20w50 with Slick50 already in it & dropped some ZDDP in their & i noticed it was starting better was quieter & running better.My car is now in winter storage & confident about first spring start up now.I've been using Slick50 in ALL my cars now for many years with no ill effects.I had no problem with adding ZDDP as an extra precaution.My engine was completely rebuilt 3 years ago.I also added a magnetic strap for the oil filter.The ZDDP is supposed to coat the cam lobes.My Spit is a 79 1500.
Ken&Whitelightning
PS;To each his or her own i guess.
 
Castrol 20W50 Syntec (full synthetic) has higher zinc content. Quart bottles are labled "for Classic Cars" and the back says not to be used on cars later than 1993 (or there abouts I think).

Rob.
 
I've used STP and Marvel Mystery Oil ever since the 60s in all my vehicles, including my farm and construction tractors. One of my tractors was my dads and was built in 1944. The engine has never been apart and to this day, runs like new. He was an avid user of STP and scheduled oil changes. Total, 10 vehicles. The only thing I can say about what I use is my old Ford Ranger has 245,000 miles on it's 4 cylinder engine. It has a slight valve seal,(umbrella), leak when it sets for about a week. Other than that, it burns no oil and still runs strong. The engine has never been apart other than to replace a cam belt at 130,000 miles. Since they have treated me so well, I'll stick to my, "Old fashioned", STP and Marvel Mystery Oil combos.
happy0148.gif
 
RobT said:
Castrol 20W50 Syntec (full synthetic) has higher zinc content. Quart bottles are labled "for Classic Cars" and the back says not to be used on cars later than 1993 (or there abouts I think).Rob.
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Only problem with that is it is really slick and I think has caused my lifter problem. Lower oil presure

TR4 said:
Another option is Brad Penn Racing Oil. I found this at a local store. You can look to see if it is sold close by. Their website has a retailer lookup. https://www.bradpennracing.com/
Click to expand...

Good choice. The old Kendall formula. My choice from now on
 
DNK said:
RobT said:
Castrol 20W50 Syntec (full synthetic) has higher zinc content. Quart bottles are labled "for Classic Cars" and the back says not to be used on cars later than 1993 (or there abouts I think).Rob.
Click to expand...
Only problem with that is it is really slick and I think has caused my lifter problem. Lower oil presure
Click to expand...

Not heard that before. I have been running Castrol 20W50 in both the TR and the Lotus and get oodles of oil pressure, no issues. Its still a thick oil. I will tell you that this synthetic exacerbates the oil leaks though. Had to buy a bigger drip tray for the Lotus!

Rob.
 
I'm hip to the leak thing. My lifter problem was probably borderline and the Castrol just exacerbated it.I would suggest that oil to a tight new motor. If you got years on you AND the motor I would suggest the Brad Penn
 
Diesel oils have a lot of detergents in them due to the carbon/soot
residue left by the combustion...I don't know that I'd want that package in a gas burning vehicle.
 
I used Shell Rotella Triple T for my break in and second oil change. It is classified as a diesel oil. Notice that I said Triple T. It was recommended as the only oil to use for break in by the machinist who did all of the engine work and builds stock and racing engines.

If no consumption, which after 1,200 miles and none so far, I may switch to Synthetic Castrol. Or, maybe I'll just stay with this oil or the Moss for Classic cars. All have the proper amounts of ZDDP for flat tappet engines.
 
If you want to buy/use a good oil that will handle the stresses of these engines, head for your friendly motorcycle store. Buy Yamalube. It comes with zddp and handles flat tappet cam engines.....I use it.
 
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