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Zero oil pressure

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Hi, Patrick - Yes, I've checked and double checked, the filter is filled with oil and I have checked that oil is actually coming out when cranking the engine. Also, the oil pressure was zero before I installed the new spin on filter, so something has happened since I stored the car for the winter. My bet (hope) at the moment is the gauge, but I am concerned by the fact that no oil comes out of the engine through the restrictor and oil gauge hose. Difficult to obtain a useful gauge around here, but perhaps a visit to eBay is worthwhile...
 
Difficult to obtain a useful gauge around here, but perhaps a visit to eBay is worthwhile

Check local Motorcycle shops as well as E-Bay.
 
KarlHB said:
Hi, Patrick - Yes, I've checked and double checked, the filter is filled with oil and I have checked that oil is actually coming out when cranking the engine. Also, the oil pressure was zero before I installed the new spin on filter, so something has happened since I stored the car for the winter. My bet (hope) at the moment is the gauge, but I am concerned by the fact that no oil comes out of the engine through the restrictor and oil gauge hose. Difficult to obtain a useful gauge around here, but perhaps a visit to eBay is worthwhile...
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Good. With the valve cover off, have you checked to see if oil is being pumped to the rocker shaft?
 
Thanks again for your advice! I really appreciate it.

Checked the oil pressure directly from the engine block with a meter borrowed from a local garage: zero pressure. Removed the rocker cover and turned the engine and as far as I could see, no oil came out from anywhere.

Final conclusion: oil pump?

If yes - is there any reason I should go for the high output I see is available?
 
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Bob_Spidell said:
The only thing I can think of is the gears on the distributor/oil pump drive shaft got stripped. That might explain the erratic behavior before total loss. Be sure to confirm with a known good gauge--though no oil coming out of the gauge feed line is a bad sign.
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I think in the end, Bob's diagnosis is going to prove correct. Either the gears are stripped or the drive has snapped. As far as the high capacity oil pump goes, I believe there's been discussion that it's not really necessary on a street engine: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?241-Oil-Pump-Replacement-67-3000 There's been more recent posts, too so a search might be helpful. I'd replace the pump while I'm in there, but I'm thinking you'll need a new shaft, too. Denis Welch remanufactures them.
 
HealeyRick said:
I think in the end, Bob's diagnosis is going to prove correct. Either the gears are stripped or the drive has snapped. As far as the high capacity oil pump goes, I believe there's been discussion that it's not really necessary on a street engine: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?241-Oil-Pump-Replacement-67-3000 There's been more recent posts, too so a search might be helpful. I'd replace the pump while I'm in there, but I'm thinking you'll need a new shaft, too. Denis Welch remanufactures them.
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I agree with you Rick on Bob's diagnosis. I'd drop the pan, remove the pump, check the shaft AND be sure that the "thrust washer" is installed. I'd even get a buddy to rotate the engine by hand while looking at the moving parts for proper movement.
 
I have now ordered a new pump (from the UK, this time) and hope that will solve the problem. Perhaps I should have checked the shaft and the thrust waster first, but I'm off for the holidays now and didn't have the time. Thank you, all - I'll come back to you when I have installed the new pump - hopefully with good news! :smile:
 
Hi! New oil pump has arrived and I'm about to change the (hopefully) faulty one. After reading a bit, I consider this as a rather straight forward job, where I have to take care to ensure that the drive isn't falling out when the pump has been removed. I understand it is important to prime the pump after installation before cranking the engine. However, there seems to be many different methods of doing this (with the use of Vaseline, gear oil, oil through the oil reduction valve etc), so I turn (again) to the expertise on the forum to ask if there is a way which has proven to be "the best and simplest" way of doing this. And is there any other traps I can fall into while doing this job?
 
KarlHB said:
Hi! New oil pump has arrived and I'm about to change the (hopefully) faulty one. After reading a bit, I consider this as a rather straight forward job, where I have to take care to ensure that the drive isn't falling out when the pump has been removed. I understand it is important to prime the pump after installation before cranking the engine. However, there seems to be many different methods of doing this (with the use of Vaseline, gear oil, oil through the oil reduction valve etc), so I turn (again) to the expertise on the forum to ask if there is a way which has proven to be "the best and simplest" way of doing this. And is there any other traps I can fall into while doing this job?
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You might want to inspect the old pump after removing it to see why it isn't pumping before you install your new one. I'd even open it up and check the gears. Just a thought.
 
I don't mean to worry you needlessly, but if it were my car I'd remove the rod caps and replace the rod bearings while I was in there. At the very least I'd pull one of the caps and take a look at how much wear the bearings are showing. You ran the car with 0 oil pressure. You may have some "accelerated" wear on those bearings.
 
Hello all! Final (I hope) update! Changed the oil pump, followed instructions from AH Spares: primed the pump, removed spark plugs and turned the engine in five second bursts three-four times to build pressure - and voilá - I got pressure at last. Took the car for a spin today and had pressure similar to last year, which I'm happy about. Glorious feeling to finally be on the road again. Thank you all for your input and advice - I've learnt a lot over the last few weeks :smile:
 
KarlHB said:
Hello all! Final (I hope) update! Changed the oil pump, followed instructions from AH Spares: primed the pump, removed spark plugs and turned the engine in five second bursts three-four times to build pressure - and voilá - I got pressure at last. Took the car for a spin today and had pressure similar to last year, which I'm happy about. Glorious feeling to finally be on the road again. Thank you all for your input and advice - I've learnt a lot over the last few weeks :smile:
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Have you "opened up" the old pump to see why it wasn't operating? We want to know why.
 
Good work Karl and congratulations on your achievement. Just think of the story you will be telling at the next Healey gathering.

Enjoy your Healey,

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Try disconnecting oil line from gauge and using an oil can with pump, push oil down pipe under pressure, reconnect pipe and test. this worked for me.
 
Did you at any time check the oil pressure relief valve and spring in the block? thats where I would have started looking and didn't see it mentioned here.
 
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