Zimmycobra
Senior Member
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Folks:
I have a '65/66 TR4A IRS with the ZS carburetors (175 CD). During the restoration of the past several years, I rebuilt the carbs and used the Moss rebuild kits for all the parts and needles, etc. While the car does run fairly well (it seems) there are a few issues that I am going to try to address. While the choke mechanically works fine, it will stall out the car when cold. Idle seems to be a bit difficult to adjust properly. From many years of playing with Webers on a big block Cobra replica (very different animal), my feel is that the car seems to be running very rich at idle. When operating the choke, it adds to the problem causing the stall. (My guess at this time)
What I learned from my Weber experience is that the old rules of thumb and settings are no longer correct due to the very different formulations of today's fuels. Hence my question - what is the correct needle and baseline adjustments that are correct for today's fuels? I am planning to remove the carbs and check all of the settings, needles and their positions, look for any other problems, and then re-install.
Any info and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I have a '65/66 TR4A IRS with the ZS carburetors (175 CD). During the restoration of the past several years, I rebuilt the carbs and used the Moss rebuild kits for all the parts and needles, etc. While the car does run fairly well (it seems) there are a few issues that I am going to try to address. While the choke mechanically works fine, it will stall out the car when cold. Idle seems to be a bit difficult to adjust properly. From many years of playing with Webers on a big block Cobra replica (very different animal), my feel is that the car seems to be running very rich at idle. When operating the choke, it adds to the problem causing the stall. (My guess at this time)
What I learned from my Weber experience is that the old rules of thumb and settings are no longer correct due to the very different formulations of today's fuels. Hence my question - what is the correct needle and baseline adjustments that are correct for today's fuels? I am planning to remove the carbs and check all of the settings, needles and their positions, look for any other problems, and then re-install.
Any info and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.