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Zenith Carb

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CZ_Dave

CZ_Dave

Jedi Warrior
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Silly me, do you screw the air mixture knob counter clock wise to lean out a the carb and screw it in to richen it or is it the opposite?
 
From the top lookin' down, clockwise raises the needle and enriches the mix. Ya got it right. :wink:
 
Screw it out to lean it, screw it in to richen it, thanks Doc, trying to get this ladies 78 to pass this @#$%^&*! Claifornia Smog emissions freakin test. And the plugs are plack powder when pulled.
 
I trust you've ensured the diaphragm is still in tact?

Honestly, the only reason that I can think of to keep a ZS on a MGB is to keep the car "original". For a weekend cruiser/random day drive, I would change that carb out for one of those Moss fuel injection kits. But that's only for cars the need to maintain Cali Smog.

If you don't have to keep Cali "smog legal" then I would swap up for a single HS6 or a pair of HS4s.
 
Look to those stoopid O-rings that seal the oil chambers from intake, too. The ones on the adjusters for th' needles.

HTH!!!
 
oh yeah, don't forget about that spring loaded needle too, it can be difficult to get a steady afr if the needle is flopping about because the spring ain't loaded...
 
Nunyas said:
If you don't have to keep Cali "smog legal" then I would swap up for a single HS6 or a pair of HS4s.
Click to expand...

And just WHERE would one acquire an HS6?!? :devilgrin:

...again: Sooo pleased ya decided to come back here! :thumbsup:
 
Ksadly not about HS6's but "original equipment and Californ-i-a.
 
Check the INSIDE of the original type air filter to see if its dirty.
If you do not have the 2 piece mixture adjusting tool then remove the damper and adjust the misture leaner. Once you know that the mixture allen screw is not stuck and moves easy then you can do it still installed on the car without stressing the rubber diaphram. Bob
 
And, I was informed by a friend of mine,
to change the oil just before I go as the
probe they put up the pipe can detect the filth
and richness in the oil.
Well, we shall see if all this works out.
Personally, I like the 2 SU's, or the one weber.
I buy cars like hers just for the parts.
Thanks to all for your help.
 
In ontario they also recommend buying Shell Hi Test and running the car for 1/2 an hour before the test and bringing it in hot.
 
Ok, leaned the carb out as much as I could,
changed the oil, clean air filter,
made sure everything was on it for the 1978 emissions.

and

it

failed the smog test misserably,


the machine said it is so rich, that it needs
to be pulled off the road and sold to the state
scrap program. 10 degrees BTDC, 850 rpm, passed the visual.

But cannot defy the machine
 
GAH.

Confiscation of private property is a...

RATS!!!

<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">I LIKE CHEESE!</span></span>
 
I recommend register non-op to keep the car...

get the stuff sorted then give them (the smog shop) a visit


a wideband O2 sensor and a AFR gauge before the cat will help w/ the tuning, so you don't have to make a thousand trips to the smog shop while getting it set up.

Are you certain the cat is still good in that car? My '76 ate catalytic converters like they were Pringles... I basically had to get a new one every time I needed to smog :\ Then again, I was also using universal cats from exhaust shops too...
 
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