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Spitfire ZDDP additive

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DomCasual

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Raging club debate re ZDDP...

Argument #1 -- Most LBC's are driven so few miles between oil changes that ZDDP is not a issue as far as engine life.

Argument#2 - Better safe than sorry -- buy a small amount at your local auto supply store and throw it in at your annual oil change.

Argument #3 -- Don't be a cheapskate -- pay the premium price [plus shipping] and by oil with ZDDP already added
 
#3 is the best alternative, followed by #2. Just my opinion. Since #3 is already mixed by supposedly highly paid petroleum engineers, chances are the amount of ZDDP will be correct. Just make sure the oil you're buying is made for the older flat tappet engines and not the down-graded stuff meant to not clog catalytic converters.
 
I just had a Road Atlantic race team ask me if I knew where to get it. Apparently their supplier dried up but they always use it. High ware engines demand it. Or you can use Brad Penn racing oil (the green oil) and it has it in there at the proper ratios.
 
I use Brad Penn and I even got to use more of it this summer when I forgot to put the plug back in before beginning to fill it......2nd time in my life I've done that. Grrrrrrr.....
 
Option #4 : Walk into your local auto parts store and buy Valvoline VR1. O'Reillys even has it on sale several times a year, as a "loss leader".

There is a whole lot more to motor oil formulation than just ZDDP. Any given oil has literally dozens of additives that have to work and play well together to provide the benefits without bad side effects. Even too much ZDDP can damage your engine! And I've read the test reports where "duelling additives" turn out to be even worse than no additive.
 
It used to be correct, but even the Diesel formulations have cut back.
 
Diesel oil (aka Rotella) used to be an alternative a couple of years ago but has gone the same fate as car oils. They have cut the zddp because modern diesels engines now have cats. I use a ratio of GM EOS (their assembly lube) in the oil change to bump up the zddp levels. There are LOTS of discussions on the net (for years actually) discussing this in relation to muscle cars and racing engines, not just lbcs.
 
My $.02, I use the Brad Penn 20W50 in mine. In the grand scheme of things, the higher price for the oil is negligible.
 
We run Brad Penn in my father-in-law's Formula-Vee. It is a good oil being the old Kendall product under a new name. The only downside is that it is not something you purchase at any local store so shipping adds to the cost of an already expensive product. As Old Blue said above, you may consider the incremental cost (including shipping) to be negligible. However, for my street cars I follow Randall's suggestion and buy Valvoline VR1 when it is on sale. At this time I have about 1-1/2 cases in the garage reserved for our British cars.
 
I agree with TR3driver, I use Valvoline VR1. Not sure if he uses the regular VR1 Racing Oil or Synthetic version, but I use the synthetic.

I use the 20W50 in my 1933 Chevrolet, 1962 TR4 and 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I buy all my oil from Amazon and get free shipping with my wife's Prime membership.

Vila
1933 Chevrolet
1962 triumph TR4
1984 BMW 633 CSi
 
I'm leaning toward Quaker State Defy as my oil of choice. It is readily available around here and is competitive in price as well.
 
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