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TR4/4A Your thoughts/value of this TR4
- Thread starter Mink
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From our standpoint it was a great outing with great folks and the British marque. What has not been said is that 20 minutes after this photo was taken the tops went up, a car cover was installed and a tonneau cover was snapped in place. There was only enough rain to dampen the ground, not to help our fires and drought.
OP
Mink
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Well, Moss was having a sale on their Tourist Trophy stainless exhaust system and I couldn't help myself. I hope to install it this weekend but I just wanted to share a pic of this thing, it's beautiful.
My car currently has a cobbled-together mess of pipes and a single blown-out cherry bomb muffler. It's obnoxiously loud and sounds terrible. This should remedy that.
My car currently has a cobbled-together mess of pipes and a single blown-out cherry bomb muffler. It's obnoxiously loud and sounds terrible. This should remedy that.
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Where is the "like" button. HAHA Classic. With little notes saying "look here!"
SteveBones
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Great investment decision regarding the stainless steel muffler set up. Thanks for sharing.
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Mink
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Can you guys assist with the function of some of this hardware? The 2 gold pieces at the top I think are assembled correctly and mount under the trans mount. However, there are two clamps as well as 2 rubber hangers. I also have 4 brackets that I'm guessing go with the hangers (see the one I've assembled). But the other two clamps and the the other bracket are a mystery. Can anyone shed some light?
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Tom, I'm looking at the diagram on page 18 of the Moss catalog. It shows the two clamps, the larger at the rear of the resonator. The other clamp is on the front of the resonator. The diagram only shows one hanger. It is hard to believe only one hanger is used. Hope this helps.
SteveBones
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Tom,
Would it help if I take some pictures of my muffler? My muffler was installed awhile back though it is original and also used original hardware and clamps.
The top right clamp (from your picture) does connect were the transmission cross member is located (going by memory). I will confirm tomorrow.
Will be able to confirm tomorrow that the clamp at the bottom right is for the "tail" end of the muffler where it exits the back of the car. The rubber strip and some of the hardware bits you have included are used to secure or "hang" the muffler from the body.
Hopefully pictures will better show which parts go where.
Would it help if I take some pictures of my muffler? My muffler was installed awhile back though it is original and also used original hardware and clamps.
The top right clamp (from your picture) does connect were the transmission cross member is located (going by memory). I will confirm tomorrow.
Will be able to confirm tomorrow that the clamp at the bottom right is for the "tail" end of the muffler where it exits the back of the car. The rubber strip and some of the hardware bits you have included are used to secure or "hang" the muffler from the body.
Hopefully pictures will better show which parts go where.
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Mink
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Steve, that would be great. Thank you!!
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Mink
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Got the old system ripped out and it was even worse than I thought. The front section wasn't bad, but the rear half was 5 separate pieces (of differing diameters!) ****-poorly welded together. You can see the obvious leaks at both ends of the glasspack muffler. This thing is going to sound great with the new system. I think I have the rear mount all figured out, and I'm 90% sure about the center one, too. Still researching.
In other news, I picked up a set of rebuilt SU H6s to go with the original manifold that came on the car. The ZS carbs are working OK, but this car should have the SUs. I'll need to locate a couple of small hardware bits and clean them all up before I can install.
In other news, I picked up a set of rebuilt SU H6s to go with the original manifold that came on the car. The ZS carbs are working OK, but this car should have the SUs. I'll need to locate a couple of small hardware bits and clean them all up before I can install.
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Mink
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Well, it turns out I don't know as much as I thought I knew (story of my life). I got the center mount figured out, but I'm not sure about the rear one. Take a look at the pic below. I'm not sure if my rubber hanger should attach to the metal Z bracket, or if it should replace it and the rubber square below it. I've looked at the Moss diagrams but they are not any help on this one. I'd like to do this correctly. Thanks for the help.
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Tom...wish I knew you were looking for a set of SU's. I have a spare set sitting in a box that need to be rebuilt and cleaned up, but figured they could go to a new home. Once I get the ones on the car rebuilt I don't really see the point in having a spare set. Well, unless someone says otherwise.
As for the hanger...no idea! But I'll be in the same position as you come next Feb-Mar.
As for the hanger...no idea! But I'll be in the same position as you come next Feb-Mar.
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Mink
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OK, I finally figured it out and I'm posting this here for reference. The clamp on the tube on my car is not correct nor original. Originally, there was an L bracket welded between the frame rail and the rear tube with a hole in it that the rear exhaust hanger's upper hole would have attached to. However, I can see that this bracket broke cleanly off a very, very long time ago. The Z-bracket on the clamp approximates where the hole in the bracket would have been. I should probably fab up another bracket and weld it in, but the clamp has been working fine for so long that I might just roll with it.
For reference, you can see the bracket here between 21 and 22:
For reference, you can see the bracket here between 21 and 22:
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Mink
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After thinking about it, I decided to do the right thing and make a new bracket. So I bent one up and welded it in with a bit more gusto than they did at STMC back in 1962. After cleaning up the frame and tube it is pretty obvious why the bracket broke off - there were just two dabs of weld at each end holding it on. Must have been made at 4:00pm on a Friday. Anyway, I got the new exhaust installed and I can't get over how quiet this thing is now. Wow.
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Good afternoon, all..it's been a while! I'm back with a question that I think I already know the answer to.
A few days ago I recommissioned my TR4 - it had been sitting since last summer. When I put it away last year, I noticed what sounded like a crunching noise when accelerating in first gear. Well 8 months' slumber didn't improve things! 1st gear still works fine (as do the others) but it honestly sounds like there are rocks floating around inside the transmission in first gear sometimes (not always). I drained the gear oil, which had about 1000 miles on it and it looks like mud. No metal chunks or anything but this can't be good. See below.
So I'm assuming I'm going to need a gearbox rebuild. I want to have this one fixed as it is the original one to the car. Any recommendations on a TR4 gearbox rebuilder in Northern California?
A few days ago I recommissioned my TR4 - it had been sitting since last summer. When I put it away last year, I noticed what sounded like a crunching noise when accelerating in first gear. Well 8 months' slumber didn't improve things! 1st gear still works fine (as do the others) but it honestly sounds like there are rocks floating around inside the transmission in first gear sometimes (not always). I drained the gear oil, which had about 1000 miles on it and it looks like mud. No metal chunks or anything but this can't be good. See below.
So I'm assuming I'm going to need a gearbox rebuild. I want to have this one fixed as it is the original one to the car. Any recommendations on a TR4 gearbox rebuilder in Northern California?
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Tom, I had my TR4A transmission rebuilt 34 years ago by Caron's Service Center. At the time they were on E Street in Sacramento. I did a quick search and see a couple locations later, the most recent in Fair Oaks. The owner was a bit younger than me, so could still be in business. Check it out. Oh, the rebuild was good, still working great.
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Mink
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Peer pressure did me in. My buddy Scotty (with the TR250) convinced me to tear into it myself, and it wasn't all that difficult. Within an hour or so it was on the bench, and a couple hours after that it was apart.
On the bench.
First sign of trouble:
Destroyed countershaft:
Remnants of the completely destroyed rear countershaft needle bearing:
So I guess I'm gonna learn to rebuild a gearbox!
On the bench.
First sign of trouble:
Destroyed countershaft:
Remnants of the completely destroyed rear countershaft needle bearing:
So I guess I'm gonna learn to rebuild a gearbox!
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