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Yet another TR clutch issue

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Clutch up-date

Hi again,

Thank you to everyone who commented on my clutch problem. I had a little time today to work on it. Here's where I'm at:

Started the car and went back and forth in the driveway about ten times. No problem with forward or reverse.

Warmed up the car completely and drove for about 20 minutes. Stopped in a parking lot and went back and forth again. Started to have problems with reverse about every third or fourth time. Hard to get first gear once or twice. Could creep forward in second to get rolling, and then get first, no problem. Pumping the clutch seemed to help a little.

By the time I got home it was pretty bad. Checked total travel of the slave cylinder rod (thanks to my long-legged 14-year-old son), and it was very consistently 5/8" to 3/4". The actuating lever feels pretty solid. Turns out that I was connected to the middle hole.

I'm convincing myself that the problem is hydraulic and not so much mechanical, mostly due to the progressive way the cluch action degrades. I won't rule out a combination of issues, that's for sure! I just don't really want to pull everything out right now.

The clutch master (3/4") was rebuilt four years ago with a Girling kit, but not resleeved. The slave is a Lockheed unit that I also put in when the car was rebuilt. I started thinking about sending the master to Apple Hydraulics because I was really happy with the job they did on my brake M.C., but after looking at the cost and the extra time back & forth, I think I am going to get a whole new clutch M.C. I do use silicone fluid.

I will continue to report my frustrations and revelations.

Best regards,
 
Re: Clutch up-date

Mike,
If you confirmed the slave cylinder is moving (anything over 1/2-3/4") then the play is in the fork/shaft connection. The hydraulic pressure is working, the slave cylinder is moving the shaft arm & the shaft is rotating, it's probably the fork that's creating the slack.
 
Re: Clutch up-date

I just replaced my tranny and I have my fork and shaft roll pinned. I wouldn't do it any other way. Had it this way for @ 15 years and no problems. I put the pins in thru the front as the shaft and fork are in the proper position. Perry
 
Re: Clutch up-date

There you go, another satisfied customer !! Perry's experiance reinforces the fact that this is not a new problem but one that has been around for a long time. Sure there will be owners that have never had the problem but that doesn't mean it dosen't exist or doing preventitive modifications are taboo. This repair just make common sense to do.
 
Re: Clutch up-date

Mike: Your symptoms sound very much like those I experienced with my 68 TR250. I am also using silicone, and have an un-rebuilt MC. In my case a combination of a good used late model TR6 pedal box with good bushings and a proper pedal return spring did the trick. The tip off was this: when the problems would occur I could pull the clutch pedal back with my left foot and then I could get a full stroke on the MC. Then I could shift cleanly coming out of first from a stop. Check that the MC cap is vented. Sounds minor but if it is not vented it can tend to keep the MC rod retracted a bit.
 
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