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XJ6 SII Fuel Injection- Convert to carbs or rebuild?

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J

J. Christian

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I have a 1979 Series 2 XJ6. I have had nothing but problems with the fuel injection system (Bosch) since I bought the car two years ago. I don't know whether to scrap it and try to convert to carbs, or just rebuild the entire system to make it foolproof (in as much as that is possible). I would like to make this car a daily driver in nice weather, but it isn't very reliable as it is. About how much would either option cost, and what are the benefits and downfalls of each system? Eventually, I may think about converting to V8, but at this point, the rest of the engine is pretty strong (100,000 mi).
Cheers.
 
Well, the twin-carb set ups used prior to the F.I. were no picnic, either. Ok, like anything else, once set up properly, they're fne....if you leave 'em alone. But, the automatic enrichment devices were known to be a problem, or so I'm given to believe.

What kind of injection problems are you having? The system on these Jags is really pretty darn good and about the most simple system you'll find.....as F.I. goes.

I think carbs would be a retro-grade step, personally.

just my 2 cents

Doug Dwyer
 
I agree that the fuel injection system is far superior to the old twin Zenith Stromberg set up. I suggest that you scrap the series 2 system if it is becoming flakey and pick up a later model series 3 system with the straight fuel rail. There are quite a few improvements between these systems and you can probably find a complete used series 3 system used. This should include the fuel injection relays and diode pack. The conversion is a dropin and you should experience improved reliability. Go over all componenets and make sure that the injection system is in serviceable condition.
Best regards,
 
J: These fuel systems are not har to trcae if you get a good manual. Most of the time an injection clean and all hose replacement will take care of most problems, get correct hose MM. Just follow the manuals
, also the O2 sensors are locally available at your local autoparts store about 25-35$ the will reck havoc on idle.
The airbox is adjustable look in a manual.

Larry
 
Jams:

Forgot to say: also check your coil spade and terminal connections, the coil gets alot of engine heat and the rubber cover keeps it in and hte terminals will get loose. This causes alot of hesitation, dying ,etc. Iwould see black smoke pour out the rear then it would act up, after a while it would die, but restart and be ok for a few more miles.
Larry
 
Larry- thanks for the suggestions. I haven't had time or $ to work on the car yet (remodeling
hammer.gif
), but will check these things out when I do. I just recently picked up what looks to be a decent Bosche F.I. manual, but haven't had time to look at it much yet. Cheers!
cheers.gif


[ 04-12-2003: Message edited by: J. Christian ]</p>
 
James:

The Bosch manual will be excellent, most european models used the system, Volvo etc.

Mainly check condition of connections and the sensors on the manifold, vey easy to reach, not that $$, but very reliable system, last one took me 150,000 miles.

Larry
 
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