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Wouldn't Start, Now Starts but Revs to 6000+

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The orientation of the car wouldn't play into the equation much. But the choke would.

My memories of the place are at LEAST 30 years old. Left Sewickley in 1980. :wink:
 
Just tried to start it for the first time today. It's back to not wanting to start at all again. I hit the side of the float chamber more than a few times to no avail. It's never given me any trouble starting at all before this week so this is really frustrating.

Somebody, either on this board or another, mentioned to look for vacuum leaks. There aren't really many hoses under the hood on my car.I checked the one from the distributor to the carb and the connection of the carb to the manifold for any vacuum leaks and I didn't see anything unusual.
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Okay, how comfortable are you with detaching the fuel supply line to check pump delivery?

I'll hang here now as a "hall monitor". :wink:
 
Yup. One down...

Have you ever removed the "lid" on that thing? The wingnut and cap first, then the five screws. The top comes off vertically with floats attached. The gasket should come off with the lid. Remove the fuel line and un-do those screws. Once the lid is in your paws, hold the thing in the same position it sits in on the car, GENTLY blow thru the supply port as you (also gently) raise and lower the float... you should "see" the float valve open and close the air as you blow.

Gasoline tastes funny, wipe it as best ya can before puttin' lips to alloy. :wink:
 
I'll get the camera out and a DCOE disassembled if we need it, too. :thumbsup:
 
One way you can test if it is a vacuum leak is to restrict the air intake into the carb. This will offset any potential leaks. That being said, if it started, it's not likely air.

Try it with starter fluid again - if it runs, then you have a fuel delivery problem.
 
hmm, tough to see anything while blowing through supply port but i could hear it. when the floats are all the way down there's a solid seal. when the floats are lifted air can flow through almost freely. with the lid removed, fuel is visible in the float bowl.

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That's BAS-ACKWARDS! You should feel the restriction when the floats are all the way UP, air flow when they're down... That's really weird.
 
And fuel level appears low in that photo, too.
 
crap. don't you wish you could remove stupid posts before somebody responds? You're right. it was backwards because I was wrong. Just checked again and the floats work as you described, not as I thought I remembered when I typed in my last post. doh
 
meh. 'sokay. Now do you have the float settings procedure? Float held vertical with tag JUST contacting the ball in the valve, distance to what would be the float "top" and the gasket against the lid ~should~ be 8mm, IIRC. "Drop" something like 10mm. Double check my 'spec's' as this is from memory.
 
Another thought: insure the ball valve at the bottom of the bowl (#43 in that diagram) is snugly fitted to the bowl. Only way to test it tho is to remove it and that means allowing fuel to dump into the intake... or sopping the fuel out with paper towels first. Then it's the same test procedure as the cloat valve... blow from the "bottom" it should pass air. From the top, not.
 
Can't measure the float level now as I don't have my calipers and other measuring tools with me. Also, I'll have to use your 8mm and 10mm measurements. Neither of my weber books list the float levels for a 40 dcoe 2 in a 1098 spridget. (One is Braden's "WEBER CARBURETORS" and the other is John Passini's "Weber Carburetors Tuning Tips & Techniques")

Would a change in the float levels seem like a possible scenario that fits in with this "worked monday night when i got home from work/ wouldn't start for a meeting tuesday morning" situation?. It fits the low fuel level visible in the carb I guess.


***EDIT: Oops, hadn't updated my screen in a while when I posted so I didn't notice your posts.***
 
:laugh:

Update early an' often 'round here. Things sometimes move in nearly real time, y'know. :wink:
 
Gonna throw in the towel for the day. An exciting first period between russia and the czech republic and the anticipation of the game between usa and canada have stolen my attention. I'll have time to get back into this on Tuesday. Thanks again for your help Dr. E.

sean
 
:thumbsup:
 
Follow the air. If the butterflys are indeed closed then its getting air from somewhere. Some one said to restrict flow to the inlets, well thats what the butterfys do only allowing an idle when closed. It don't matter how rich it is or how much gas is in the bowl or pressure or any of that, it ain't gonna rev without a lot of air passing through it. If the butterflys are closed, you should only be affecting the idle with other gas issues because only a small amount of air can go through with the butterflys closed. I wish I was there, its got to be something letting air in. The choke on most carbs does open the butterflys for a fast idle, so maybe something has slipped in there and its going WOT when the choke is pulled out.
 
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