Hey there Guest! If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
Hey there Guest - be sure to keep your profile page up to date with interesting info about yourself: learn more
What the heck is that "Resources" tab up there all about? Learn more
More tips and tricks on Posting and Replying: click
Everything you've ever wanted to know about bookmarks, but were afraid to ask: Learn More
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the smilie in place of the real @
Want to mention another member in a post & get their attention? WATCH THIS
So, you created a "Group" here at BCF and would like to invite other members to join? Watch this!
Hey Guest - A post a day keeps Basil from visiting you in the small hours and putting a bat up your nightdress!
Hey Guest - do you know of an upcoming British car event? Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> Here's How <<
Hey Guest - you be stylin' Change the look and feel of the forum to fit your taste. Check it out
If you run across an inappropriate post, for example a post that breaks our rules or looks like it might be spam, you can report the post to the moderators: Learn More
Trying to line up the motor mount bolts has always been a pain. This time when the engine went back in I used studs in the frame mount and then I just had to wiggle the engine mounts and then put washers and nuts on....simple.
If that flexible oil line from the block to the oil pressure gauge goes out while you're on the road comes to mind. One end is easy; the end that goes into the block under the manifolds - not so much.
One-person X-mission installation with a failing floor jack on a 90+F day and pilot bushing extraction. I'm not the greatest at finessing, but replacing a fabric convertible top and seals is up there on the top 10 list. GONZO
I've had repair jobs on the Healey that were hard, time consuming, frustrating, backbreaking, confusing, tedious...my list goes on and on.
But the one job I 'will' find hard, time consuming, frustrating, backbreaking, confusing, tedious and yes, my list will go on and on...and I haven't even started doing it yet, is..."A NEW PAINT JOB!"
(and something tells me I'm never going to do it, at least on my own)
I've had repair jobs on the Healey that were hard, time consuming, frustrating, backbreaking, confusing, tedious...my list goes on and on.
But the one job I 'will' find hard, time consuming, frustrating, backbreaking, confusing, tedious and yes, my list will go on and on...and I haven't even started doing it yet, is..."A NEW PAINT JOB!"
(and something tells me I'm never going to do it, at least on my own)
And while you're painting it, you really can't do it without painting the engine compartment, so you'll have to pull the motor. And the new paint will make the interior look ratty, so you probably need to pull that, too. And rewire the car. And since the motor is out, might as well rebuild it, along with the tranny and overdrive, suspension. etc, etc. You're right, it is the worst job!
Selling it is not so bad, watching it roll away on a trailer, it was going out of state, is the worst. it takes quite a while for it to be less painful, but never quite goes away.
I vote with the painting. Not having a paint booth, stuff falls into your new paint and you have to sand and re-paint. I had the hood and one fender that were painted 4 times. Then, because I don't paint that much, you have sand and polish that paint so it looks really good. Both messy jobs. No fingerprints left after that job.
Jerry
That's a good qualifier, as is Bob's comment about watching it roll away. I don't know if I could handle it (41st anniversary of its purchase was yesterday, Monday technically, since it's now after midnight).
And there are worse jobs, but one that always comes immediately to mind for me is this one...
Not a big job, but very frustrating...getting the bottom, inside mounting nut on the rear carburetor. Recently had to take that carb off to fix a sticking choke mechanism. I finally took an old 1/2" wrench, cut a "V" most of the way through the shank and bent it at a 45 degree so I could get it on the nut.
The hardest job I ever did on my Healey was removing the crank pulley nut. At this point I don't even remember why I was doing it, maybe I wanted to replace the front oil seal. Anyway I took a few days off of work to do this job and to swap out my transmission. The bolt just would not budge. I was a big strapping strong lad in those days and I ended up breaking the end off of one quality breaker bar (S-K Tools I think) and bending another when I tried to extend it and my leverage with a cast iron pipe. I also tried the starter trick, but did not have air tools at the time. Eventually, after a couple days of swearing and trying different types of tools and extensions I bought a large box end wrench that fit on the nut. A couple blows with the WW hammer, now also known as Mjolner, and it popped loose rather easily.
Fiddly, but not that hard, was taking off the control head for turn signal adjustment. Maybe a dozen times before they flashed reliably.
Never did get them to self cancel consistently.
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.
(Click X in the upper-right to dismiss this notice)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.