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My 70' turns over fine and almost fires up and then nothing. Just keeps turning and the engine twists to start and nothing. I smell gas so I figure gas flow isn't the problem. There are no gas leaks. Once the car starts and warms up you can shut it down and it will fire up quickly again. Any ideas?
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Won't Start!!!
- Thread starter spooch22
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T
Tinster
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I'm not one to speak on this topic with
much authority( LOL ), but maybe you are pumping
the gas pedal a few times too many if you can
smell gas. Maybe the plugs are gas fouled at
cold start up, but once hot no problem and a
quick start?
tin
much authority( LOL ), but maybe you are pumping
the gas pedal a few times too many if you can
smell gas. Maybe the plugs are gas fouled at
cold start up, but once hot no problem and a
quick start?
tin
T
Tinster
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Guest
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I will defer to the real TR experts. The
Crypt Car rarely starts.
Tinster
Crypt Car rarely starts.
Tinster
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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If you have points, check to see if the setting is .015, they tend to close up over time. Wayne
G
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When is the last time you changed your battery and is your alternator putting out? May be time for a rebuild or upgrade. Are you using old coil, etc.? It's Christmas, treat your car to some presents.
habaneronut
Senior Member
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Been a long time since I had a 6 and I don't remember if they have a hand primer or not, but here is what happened to me recently on my 3A.
Car was hard to start, so I pumped up some gas with the hand primer, hit the starter and it fired up for a seond or two and then died. Tried this for half a dozen times with the same result until it dawned on me that I was leaving the pump handle in the down (off) position while cranking. It would burn up the fuel I had pumped up and then quit. Worked fine once I locked the pump handle in the up position like it's supposed to be!! (But then, I'm a real dummy - if it can be screwed up, I'll do it).
Fred
Car was hard to start, so I pumped up some gas with the hand primer, hit the starter and it fired up for a seond or two and then died. Tried this for half a dozen times with the same result until it dawned on me that I was leaving the pump handle in the down (off) position while cranking. It would burn up the fuel I had pumped up and then quit. Worked fine once I locked the pump handle in the up position like it's supposed to be!! (But then, I'm a real dummy - if it can be screwed up, I'll do it).
Fred
D
Deleted member 3577
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Sounds like strangler......Check linkage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Joe_Pinehill
Jedi Hopeful
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I also am curious what the experts will say.
But if it I read your post correctly, it Fires when you crank? When the car does start, and warms up, its starts again? If this is true, wouldnt that lead you to think its not an electical problem?
Maybe check the fuel filter, (when was the last time you changed it?), is there fuel in Carb?, is the fuel pump delivering when you crank?
But if it I read your post correctly, it Fires when you crank? When the car does start, and warms up, its starts again? If this is true, wouldnt that lead you to think its not an electical problem?
Maybe check the fuel filter, (when was the last time you changed it?), is there fuel in Carb?, is the fuel pump delivering when you crank?
Joe_Pinehill
Jedi Hopeful
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BTW, Im in NJ, near Stockton.
I think the fuel is getting to the carbs. The car almost starts on first try with full choke when cold so the fuel is there. Then the car just cranks away untill the battery almost dies. I think she would start if the battery would give me a little more crank time. To me it seems like it floods out. If it sits for a half hour or so after it seems to go through the same process of almost starting and eventually flooding or the battery crapping out. Maybe plugs are bad? I'm gonna give the battery a charge tomorrow and give the fuel filters a going over. Hey Joe let me know when your in the area of Freehold we have some good roads around here.
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When a car won't start, I like to first think simple. For me, it's almost always: 1) gas; 2) ignition; or 3) battery. In colder weather, a good old British car sometimes needs a firm pull of the choke. For me, I pull it nearly all the way out to start.
I can't tell from your case, but:
First, be absolutely certain that your choke linkage is working and "holding." In some cars you have to hold the choke until the car warms up. Verify that when the choke is pulled, it's doing its job at the carburetors, not just taking up slack.
Then, don't guess that your fuel pump is working or that your fuel line is clear. Verify that so you don't waste time. I can't tell you the time I once wasted before I learned of an obstruction in my fuel line. You might want to pull your fuel line off the carbs and hold a can to catch the fuel while someone turns the key--or some other quick approach. Gas flow show be strong and consistent with the cranking of the engine.
If neither choke nor gas is the problem, be sure that the ignition is sending current to the coil and that the wiring from the ignition to the coil is not corroded or broken. Last year, my car was starting "off and on." To my surprise, the wiring to the coil was so corroded at the slide connector to the coil that the current was only intermittent. That seemed like a freak occurrence, but it was sure easy to fix once I discovered that with just a wiggle of a wire, no current was reaching the spark plugs. I fixed the connection and the car immediately started.
If the problem clearly is not the choke, nor the fuel system, nor the spark/coil/ignition, and if the car actually does start sometime, as you indicate, it's possible that you have the timing materially off the mark. I wouldn't underestimate that possibility. When my timing is on the mark, the car starts up easily. Unfortunately, I have a trade off--I retard the timing for better performance, and suffer a bit on ease of start up. I'm working on that.
Finally, and maybe as important as anything (and like another has advised), it's possible your points are totally fried or way off the right gap. Of course, check that.
Anyway, I'm no pro. Advice here is from a trial and error do-it-yourself LBC owner who has been stuck about everywhere, tried about everything, been splashed in a good suit with gas, grease and coolant, and somehow never had to tow an LBC anywhere.
Good luck.
I can't tell from your case, but:
First, be absolutely certain that your choke linkage is working and "holding." In some cars you have to hold the choke until the car warms up. Verify that when the choke is pulled, it's doing its job at the carburetors, not just taking up slack.
Then, don't guess that your fuel pump is working or that your fuel line is clear. Verify that so you don't waste time. I can't tell you the time I once wasted before I learned of an obstruction in my fuel line. You might want to pull your fuel line off the carbs and hold a can to catch the fuel while someone turns the key--or some other quick approach. Gas flow show be strong and consistent with the cranking of the engine.
If neither choke nor gas is the problem, be sure that the ignition is sending current to the coil and that the wiring from the ignition to the coil is not corroded or broken. Last year, my car was starting "off and on." To my surprise, the wiring to the coil was so corroded at the slide connector to the coil that the current was only intermittent. That seemed like a freak occurrence, but it was sure easy to fix once I discovered that with just a wiggle of a wire, no current was reaching the spark plugs. I fixed the connection and the car immediately started.
If the problem clearly is not the choke, nor the fuel system, nor the spark/coil/ignition, and if the car actually does start sometime, as you indicate, it's possible that you have the timing materially off the mark. I wouldn't underestimate that possibility. When my timing is on the mark, the car starts up easily. Unfortunately, I have a trade off--I retard the timing for better performance, and suffer a bit on ease of start up. I'm working on that.
Finally, and maybe as important as anything (and like another has advised), it's possible your points are totally fried or way off the right gap. Of course, check that.
Anyway, I'm no pro. Advice here is from a trial and error do-it-yourself LBC owner who has been stuck about everywhere, tried about everything, been splashed in a good suit with gas, grease and coolant, and somehow never had to tow an LBC anywhere.
Good luck.
Joe_Pinehill
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I had similar experience with fuel delivery. I was working on a friends Dodge pickup, would not start at all. Poured a tablespoon of gas down the carb, and it fired up. A new $5 gas filter solved the problem.
This is easy to do on a downdraft carb. Is there a way to get gas into a side draft carbs bowl without making too much of a mess?
This is easy to do on a downdraft carb. Is there a way to get gas into a side draft carbs bowl without making too much of a mess?
startech47
Jedi Knight
Offline
Did you check for slack in the timing chain yet?
You can check valve movement visually or with a dial indicator, a more accurate method.
This check is done with the engine in car.
1 Remove the valve cover.
2 Remove the spark plugs.
3 Disable the ignition.
4 Find a valve that is opening or closing. It's valve spring will be partially compressed.
5 Rotate the engine clockwise, by hand, until you the valve just starts moving.
6 Mark the crankshaft dampener, crannkshaft pulley at the timing tab.
7 Rotate the engine counter clockwise, by hand, until you the valve just starts moving.
8 Mark the crankshaft dampener, crankshaft pulley, at the timing tab.
9 Measusure the distance between the marks.
10 Measure the diameter of the crankshaft dampener.
11 Multiply the diameter, from step 10, by 3.142 (Pi).
12 Multiply the distance you measured, from step 9, by 360.
13 Divide the circumference, from step 11, by the result, from step 12.
The result of step 13 is the number of degrees of slack.
If the timing chain is loose you have to compensate with ignition timing. Eventually the chain will walk around the sprockets changing timing continously and the engine will only start for a short time when the valve timing walks into alignment. We had this happen on a 70's 383 Plymouth.
Hope you solution turns out to be something simple.
Phil
You can check valve movement visually or with a dial indicator, a more accurate method.
This check is done with the engine in car.
1 Remove the valve cover.
2 Remove the spark plugs.
3 Disable the ignition.
4 Find a valve that is opening or closing. It's valve spring will be partially compressed.
5 Rotate the engine clockwise, by hand, until you the valve just starts moving.
6 Mark the crankshaft dampener, crannkshaft pulley at the timing tab.
7 Rotate the engine counter clockwise, by hand, until you the valve just starts moving.
8 Mark the crankshaft dampener, crankshaft pulley, at the timing tab.
9 Measusure the distance between the marks.
10 Measure the diameter of the crankshaft dampener.
11 Multiply the diameter, from step 10, by 3.142 (Pi).
12 Multiply the distance you measured, from step 9, by 360.
13 Divide the circumference, from step 11, by the result, from step 12.
The result of step 13 is the number of degrees of slack.
If the timing chain is loose you have to compensate with ignition timing. Eventually the chain will walk around the sprockets changing timing continously and the engine will only start for a short time when the valve timing walks into alignment. We had this happen on a 70's 383 Plymouth.
Hope you solution turns out to be something simple.
Phil
YankeeTR
Luke Skywalker
Offline
The first thing I'd check would be the spark....is it hot and blue? Or just kinda orange? You want that snappy, blue spark for good performance. Check your point gap...you will lose that hot spark as the points wear (the gap closes as the rubbing block wears).
Also check all of your primary ignition wiring for cracks, frayed wire, etc.
Put in a set of new plugs with the proper gap...no, they aren't pre-gapped from the factory! (I've heard this many times!) MAKE SURE YOUR SECONDARY WIRING IS IN GOOD SHAPE...be sure that you don't have any spark escaping from the coil wire terminal...coils like to carbon track and allow the spark to ground to the coil bracket or engine block.
I think this is an electrical problem....
Also check all of your primary ignition wiring for cracks, frayed wire, etc.
Put in a set of new plugs with the proper gap...no, they aren't pre-gapped from the factory! (I've heard this many times!) MAKE SURE YOUR SECONDARY WIRING IS IN GOOD SHAPE...be sure that you don't have any spark escaping from the coil wire terminal...coils like to carbon track and allow the spark to ground to the coil bracket or engine block.
I think this is an electrical problem....