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Wiring Harness
- Thread starter Sopp
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I think it depends on the condition of the individual wires. My original harness had cracking cotton over crumbling rubber. Also the overbraid was in very poor condition. Not much to save.
Got complete new harness from Brit Wiring. Very close to original & high quality.
https://www.britishwiring.com/
D
Got complete new harness from Brit Wiring. Very close to original & high quality.
https://www.britishwiring.com/
D
mjobrien
Jedi Trainee
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As Dave mentioned British Wiring has a great harness. I just installed a Cloth coverd one in my BN1 and it worked out great. No issues with installation or wires and it matched the schematic wire to wire. In all the pictures that I looked at from books and on line this is a perfect match for a harness.
Michael.
Michael.
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As long as you are getting into this project, I have a few suggestions.
If you have the early Hundred, make sure that you get the harness that has two OD relays mounted on the INSIDE & the BN1 style wiring to the OD.
The harnesses are actually made in the UK. BW has a few in stock.
I ordered mine with a few internal modifications to wire routing & size. This to accomodate an alternator & a few other things.
The lower run of wiring from the engine back was originally overwrapped with plastic non stick tape. The tape is available from BW.
Get an extra assortment of bullet sizes & sleeves.
The bullets are crimped onto the wires. BW has a nice crimper which works extremely well - #TT-85. With the very high quality crimp, there is no need to solder. If you use a lesser crimper, it might be well to solder also.
The bullets go into the sleeves extremely tight. BW has a bullet inserting tool #SSC1, which makes this job so much easier & the connections very secure.
Put a dab of dilectric grease in the sleeve ends before inserting the bullets. keeps moisture out of the connections.
Once a bullet is fully inserted, it's nearly impossible to remove it. Thus the spares.
It's a really good idea to get new harness hold down clips. The BW clips matched my originals well. Some offerings from other sources don't match.
Lay the entire harness on the floor & very loosely make the bullet connections between sections. Tag every wire end & verify the circuits end to end for continuity before starting to install.
Have a enlarged version of your wiring diagram made so that you can easily follow things. Have it plastic covered & you can check things off with a marking pen.
The main harness where it goes through the firewall may be extremely tight. I had to cut my old harness at this point to get it out. Also, there was no hope of getting the new harness & it's grommet back through this hole without enlarging the hole.
When you go to test things, put a temporary 20 amp fuse in line with the main feed.
It's a lot of work so take it slow & easy.
Hope I didn't rattle on TOO much.
D
If you have the early Hundred, make sure that you get the harness that has two OD relays mounted on the INSIDE & the BN1 style wiring to the OD.
The harnesses are actually made in the UK. BW has a few in stock.
I ordered mine with a few internal modifications to wire routing & size. This to accomodate an alternator & a few other things.
The lower run of wiring from the engine back was originally overwrapped with plastic non stick tape. The tape is available from BW.
Get an extra assortment of bullet sizes & sleeves.
The bullets are crimped onto the wires. BW has a nice crimper which works extremely well - #TT-85. With the very high quality crimp, there is no need to solder. If you use a lesser crimper, it might be well to solder also.
The bullets go into the sleeves extremely tight. BW has a bullet inserting tool #SSC1, which makes this job so much easier & the connections very secure.
Put a dab of dilectric grease in the sleeve ends before inserting the bullets. keeps moisture out of the connections.
Once a bullet is fully inserted, it's nearly impossible to remove it. Thus the spares.
It's a really good idea to get new harness hold down clips. The BW clips matched my originals well. Some offerings from other sources don't match.
Lay the entire harness on the floor & very loosely make the bullet connections between sections. Tag every wire end & verify the circuits end to end for continuity before starting to install.
Have a enlarged version of your wiring diagram made so that you can easily follow things. Have it plastic covered & you can check things off with a marking pen.
The main harness where it goes through the firewall may be extremely tight. I had to cut my old harness at this point to get it out. Also, there was no hope of getting the new harness & it's grommet back through this hole without enlarging the hole.
When you go to test things, put a temporary 20 amp fuse in line with the main feed.
It's a lot of work so take it slow & easy.
Hope I didn't rattle on TOO much.
D
B
BUNDYRUM
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Dave, no not too much but as usual good solid advice. Can't go wrong with these instructions.
bundyrum.
bundyrum.
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In line with the large brown wire where it connects to the starter solenoid. A couple of short jumpers with alligator clips on the ends will work. Brown wire, jumper, fuse, jumper, large solenoid terminal to the battery.
D
D
First, a big thank you to everyone who responded to my question.
Then, a special thank you to Dave Russell for that list of do's and don't's. That list should save what hair I have left. Some of the simplist and silliest mistakes are the ones that cause the most frustration. I'll have Josh add a few more small items to the order.
When I test a new wiring system, I do it with a half worn out pair of 6-volt lantern batteries in series. Enough juice to light up the test lights without the danger of burning up the whole harness. 20amp fuse in the main line is a good idea too. I'll keep you all posted.
Thank you again,
Sopp<span style="font-family: 'Century Gothic'"> </span>
Then, a special thank you to Dave Russell for that list of do's and don't's. That list should save what hair I have left. Some of the simplist and silliest mistakes are the ones that cause the most frustration. I'll have Josh add a few more small items to the order.
When I test a new wiring system, I do it with a half worn out pair of 6-volt lantern batteries in series. Enough juice to light up the test lights without the danger of burning up the whole harness. 20amp fuse in the main line is a good idea too. I'll keep you all posted.
Thank you again,
Sopp<span style="font-family: 'Century Gothic'"> </span>
pan
Jedi Warrior
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I used a product from an Australian supplier:
"Vintage Wiring Harness". They were in Bellingen in New South Wales at the time (2003) but I hear they have relocated to Melbourne.
I had an option of modern plastic cable or more original cloth bound cable, both covered in cloth binding. Also optional LH or RH steer.
It fit perfectly and works a treat.
The website is: www.vinwire.com.au
"Vintage Wiring Harness". They were in Bellingen in New South Wales at the time (2003) but I hear they have relocated to Melbourne.
I had an option of modern plastic cable or more original cloth bound cable, both covered in cloth binding. Also optional LH or RH steer.
It fit perfectly and works a treat.
The website is: www.vinwire.com.au
B
BUNDYRUM
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Guest
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pan.
I sent you a pm.........
(in january)
bundyrum.
I sent you a pm.........
(in january)
bundyrum.