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wiring harness

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anthony7777

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anyone out here ever use or know anything about the after market wiring harness sold on ebay supplied by britishclassics? its just over $100.00 less then the moss price and made in the u.k. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
anthony7777
had mine done over here with an "octopus", recreated the original bumble bee colors with cotton, from memory was an equal with the after market stuff if not better at the terminations, used the old wiring loom as a template
 
Don't Know Anthony, but why not send it to British Wiring for a rebuild check their price as I am not sure what they charge.---Keoke
 
Keoke said:
Don't Know Anthony, but why not send it to British Wiring for a rebuild check their price as I am not sure what they charge.---Keoke
Click to expand...
----- zblu, thanks for the info, keoke thanks as well but a rebuild? does that mean thell be using some of the original harness? or just using it as a template? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
I think that they only use yours as a template. Give them a call and see Anthony.--Keoke
 
I used a braided wiring loom from SC parts. couldn't fault it. now about ÂŁ150, (~300$) If I remember rightly it even used the original colouring.
good luck
 
I don't think British Wiring will rebuild your harness. They have them manufactured in England and shipped over. They claim to make them like original but even their 'concours' harnesses are not exact. Some connectors are not being made anymore and there were quite a few things that needed to be changed just to work/fit on my BJ7.

There is a company called Rhode Island Wiring that does rebuild. I think you'll spend more money going this direction though.

Cheers,
John
 
gents, thank you all i purchased the one from britishclassics and received it yesterday ill let you all know how it works out. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif I have to agree with John on this post. I purchased a British Wiring harness and overall it worked okay. Was a little dissappointed in the terminal ends and connectors (single and double). The seemed to be made of a cheaper material, the rubber coating was shiny vs dull black and the metal portion was much thinner and required "squeezing" to make a suitable fit. The actual wire ends were a compressed fit vs soldered. I found several required soldering just to stay on the wire. Also, the bullet terminals were smaller and won't fit easily into an existing bullet connector. However, the spade terminals were very well made and worked great. Like I said, Overall I'd grade them a "B".
 
Anthony,

I know you asked Johnny but I'll weigh in here too (some fatherly figures around here have called me Johnny Boy) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

A properly crimped connection is very good. It is a cold weld connection and should last "forever".

I don't want to argue crimped vs. soldered because both can be good or bad depending on how well they were done (plus I'm not an expert!). But I've been told that crimped connections are used routinely on vehicles, aircraft and spacecraft.

I checked each crimped bullet on my BW harness by lightly pulling on them. Yes, a few were loose (which really is unexceptable from a QA standpoint) and I replaced with the original solder type. Also, I put a small amount of di-electric grease around where the wire inserts into the bullet and some more inside the connector when making the final connection (important here to use the special pliers or small channel lock type pliers to full seat the bullets into the recepticles). The idea for the grease is to keep out air/moisture since air/moisture can lead to corrosion.

Hope this helps,
John
 
Yes Crimped connections are used on space craft we can not stand the weight of the lead. However, there is a $4000 Per connector type Pull test gauge that must be used to test every pin, the failure rate is about 10%. If you can solder, solder if you can't then crimp. IMOP all that grease does is attract and hold all the dust in the connections. But you can save a bit of money and just use chassis grease it a dielectric too. Not Black Disk Brake grease---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif Course now I do not know why any one would be putting Dielectric grease in an electrical connection since a Dielectric is: A non conductor of electrical current.--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif---------- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
I used a harness from Vintage Wiring and was very happy. I had absolutely no problems installing and it has performed faultlessly since.
Their wedsite is:www.vinwire.com.au
 
I used a harness from Vintage Wiring Harness of Bellingen, New South Wales and was very happy. I had absolutely no problems installing and it has performed faultlessly since.
Their wedsite is:www.vinwire.com.au
 
"john boy", keoke, thanks for the info and "pan" thank you twice as much, my next question - are the bullet connectors available? and secondly where do i sign up for the $4000.00 pull test? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Yep 7777's, Mossy has the bullet connectors and the mating female bits in single, double and I think tripple common connectors. Jaguar suppliers can give you; Isolated female blocks of 2 to 12 pins.--Fwiw-Keoke
 
I agree with Keoke about soldering the connectors and the dielectric grease. If you heat up the connectors and wick in some solder you will have sealed up the area around the wires which both permanently attaches the wire to the connector and also forms a shield around the spaces between the wire strands. That keeps out moisture and air better than any grease plus it doesn't attract dirt. It is easy to do to a new harness before you put in into the car. It is also good cheap insurance to heat up any connectors that are soldered and add some more solder to make certain that none of them were cold soldered when made. If you do them all at once when new, you won't be doing them one at a time over the next twenty years.
IMHO
 
Keoke said:
Course now I do not know why any one would be putting Dielectric grease in an electrical connection since a Dielectric is: A non conductor of electrical current.---
Click to expand...

The problem with using some type of 'conductive grease' is the chance of causing shorts if/when the grease is exposed at the joint. The non-conductive grease is just for removing the air space around the connector (also used to prevent arcing at terminals). The force of pushing the bullet into the sleeve wipes the light grease away where the metal contacts.

I would rather have a little dust on the surface of the grease than corrosion forming on the bullet connectors. Corrosion is a common problem on the Lucas bullet connectors. I also live by the ocean so I'm a bit concerned with corrosion.

If you buy a harness from BW it will come with crimped bullets. Some of the other terminals are soldered since they are the original type that require solder. They sell a special heavy duty ratcheting crimping tool which puts a hexagonal crimp on the bullets for $55.

oh .. I spent 3.99 for a small tube of dialectric grease (permatex) and used 1/2 of it for the entire harness. It was worth the $2 to have the small applicator tip and clear grease.

Cheers,
John
 
john, i agree with the use of the grease ive used it for years in such application and ive had the crimping tool for more years then i care to admit. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
 
Hey ED! we just saved ourselves $58,99----Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
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