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Wiring hack - iginition switch question

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T

tdskip

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Hi guys - as noted previously the wiring on my Bugeye is totally hosed. I have lights that come on when they are supposed to but that is about it. All of the wires are either painted over, have been replaced with a random color scheme complete with nasty splices. Fun.

I have her wired now so that the coil goes to an always hot block of the fuse and I just connect/disconnect the battery as a hack. I've been focused on getting her mechanically sorted so no big deal, but kinda annoying if I'm running out to get milk.

So my question is this - can I simply throw a switch in between the fuse block and the Pertonix and use that as my ignition switch? I have a Pertonix I need to keep from frying and that would do the trick, right?

I'll completely rewire the car late summer with a new harness and do it all right, but want to drive her now to keep Drew off my back (ha!)
 
I'm still waiting for some pictures, Tom, so you'll keep being pestered... :devilgrin:

Not enough of an electrician to know if what you propose would work.
 
If that is the only hot lead going to the ignition system then yes, a switch would be a temporary solution. I can't remember though whether the Pertronix gets its power from that or a separate wire.
 
Typically the negative ground Pertronix (on "standard" ignition systems) is powered by the red wire connection to coil (+). So... you can put a switch on the red Pertronix wire OR the wire supplying power to coil (+).

On my father-in-law's Formula-Vee we run Pertronix and we have a separate ignition switch WITH INDICATOR LIGHT just to protect the Ignitor module. If you put a switch in as you suggest, give serious thought to adding an indicator lamp. It will save you the frustration of troubleshooting a problem that comes back to forgetting to turn the switch on.
 
Thanks guys. Doug - I have a positive earth system. I like the idea of an indicator light, will undoubtedly save me trouble shooting and freak-out time when I've simply forgotten to turn the switch on. :smile:
 
Why not just wire it to the switched side of the fuse block?

If the switched side of the block is not getting power when the ignition switch is on, the brake lights and turn signals also are not getting power, which is a major problem, too. If the switched power is not getting to the fuse block, but the brake lights etc. are OK, then the wiring really has been spectacularly kludged. Probably worth considering a new harness.
 
Hi Steve - I'll put the new harness in late summer. Right now switched power is not getting to the fuse block, although I have lights.

Brake light switch appears to be hosed - even if I get power to that switch and step on the brake still no lights. The running lights to the rear do work so I know it isn't the lamps.

I did figure out how the headlight circuit was run (funky) so I have headlights now (light/ignition switch controls power to the light switch), has bypassed the fuses obviously since it works even though I don't have power to that side of the fuse block.
 
Given your temporary solution for now (battery), why not add a battery cutoff switch. It'll be a good thing to have later anyway.
 
Hi guys - thanks for the ideas and tips.

I just spent some quality time under the dash and I now have brake lights, a switched ignition circuit and a fused approach to my headlights that I've tested and works.

I'll still rewire her when the correct dash goes in, but this is OK for driving around in now.

Cool!

Thanks again guys.
 
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