TR2/3/3A Wiring from the steering column

[Redoakboo]

I am finishing up the wiring on my 54 TR-2 Long Door restoration. I have all the lights working, but am baffled with the 4 wires coming out of the steering column.They don't match the wiring diagram for a TR-2.

The wires are Dark Green, Green, Light Green and Purple. I assume the purple wire is for the horns as it is a heaver wire then the other three. The wires that I have left are the Green and Green/Purple which I think go to the brake switch. The others are either Green or Green/White.

Your thoughts??

Dick

 

[ckeithjordan]

The colors out of the column should be: Green (to flasher via green+brown connection), green+white (right side flasher bulbs front/rear), green+red (left side flasher bulbs front/rear), and brown+black (horns). As to why yours are colored differently is a mystery. Was the steering column wiring loom original to the car or from a vendor?

Light green normally goes from the P terminal on the flasher to the dash light turn indicator, green as above, dark green and purple weren't used, all this according to the early wiring diagram for TR2 and Tr3.

 

[Redoakboo]

The colors out of the column should be: Green (to flasher via green+brown connection), green+white (right side flasher bulbs front/rear), green+red (left side flasher bulbs front/rear), and brown+black (horns). As to why yours are colored differently is a mystery. Was the steering column wiring loom original to the car or from a vendor?

Light green normally goes from the P terminal on the flasher to the dash light turn indicator, green as above, dark green and purple weren't used, all this according to the early wiring diagram for TR2 and Tr3.

When I got the car, it had been sitting in a garage for 30 years. The owner was 87 and knew nothing about the car. He owned a company that repossessed houses. The TR came with one of the houses. He drove it off and on for about 10 years . It started leaking oil so he parked it with the intent of restoring it; never did! It only had 30k miles on it.

Whoever had it before must have known something about TR's because he got rid of the Lockheed rear end and replaced it with a Girling, excellent move!.With the exception of the light harnesses and overdrive, the harness appears to be a good condition; plastic coating. The others were fabric and rusted away.I have all the lights working, just need to hook up the blinkers, horn and overdrive.

 

[ckeithjordan]

Since you do have four wires, albeit the wrong colors, and you know what connections they're supposed to use, I'd use a multi-meter to determine which wire to connect to what device (flasher, horn or bulbs). Alternatively, you could undo and pull the steering wheel hub out enough to see the wire connections there (horn and trafficator).

 

[Redoakboo]

Since you do have four wires, albeit the wrong colors, and you know what connections they're supposed to use, I'd use a multi-meter to determine which wire to connect to what device (flasher, horn or bulbs). Alternatively, you could undo and pull the steering wheel hub out enough to see the wire connections there (horn and trafficator).

Thanks Keith,

Will try the multimeter first.

Dick

 

[DavidApp]

A test light would also work.

David

 

[CJD]

Just a note to show some trouble shooting I had to do on the same topic this week. My horn stopped working about a month ago, and during the annual tune-up I finally got around to fixing it. Here is the process I went through, taking a total of about 15 minutes to get it working again:

1) First check was to follow the horn wire from the steering gear up to the connector behind the driver's side horn. It's easy to tell, as it is the largest of the wires from the steering gear. At that point I ran a jumper from the engine block (ground source) to the connector, and the horns honked. I re-set the Horn wire back into the connector. This check told me that the problem was in the trafficator. Had the horns NOT honked, then I would have to follow the wiring in the other direction...from the horns to the A2 fuse.

2) I loosened the 3 grub screws around the steering wheel center, straightened the wires where they entered the steering gear, and pulled the trafficator out about 3 inches. I carefully wiped the stator tube clean and reinserted the trafficator into the stator...and the button honked the horns. I retightened the grub screws...job done.

If cleaning the stator to trafficator connection had not worked, then I would have had to take apart the trafficator to study the horn contactor next. But, as it turned out, a dirty stator to trafficator was all that was wrong. But it does show that the horn does require the stator to ground it.

Happy motoring!

 

[sp53]

Dick you should be able to test continuity in conjunction with the trafficker switch. Unplug the wires at the worm gear and then hook an ohm meter to one of the turn lights sockets on the apron and the other end to the wires at the worm gear you unplugged then move the trafficker switch left or right and when there is continuity label the wire as the turn light.
steve