Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
How much work is it to remove wire wheels and the hubs? I just picked up three MGB parts cars and one has a complete set of wires. I want to remove them and sell them off seperately before I send the cars to the scrap yard. The MGs were a throw in in a deal I just made for a 78 TR8 coupe. I heard that you have to remove the axles to get at the rears. Is this true?
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
wire wheels
- Thread starter tr8todd
- Start date
Share this page
Steve_S
Yoda
Offline
The wheels come off with a hammer. Undo the center nut and the wheels pop right off.
The front hubs are held in place by a nut hidden under a dust cover underneath the knockoff. You may want to remove the entire kingpin, hub and all. It would be worth more than the hub alone.
The rear hubs are attached to the axle shafts, which are also help in place by a center nut inside the hub. It's easiest to remove the entire axle and sell as a unit.
The front hubs are held in place by a nut hidden under a dust cover underneath the knockoff. You may want to remove the entire kingpin, hub and all. It would be worth more than the hub alone.
The rear hubs are attached to the axle shafts, which are also help in place by a center nut inside the hub. It's easiest to remove the entire axle and sell as a unit.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Were it me, I'd keep the entire wire wheel rear end complete - especially if its a Banjo.
Looks like I have a project on my hands here. The car is a 72, so it's most likely not a banjo. High temp is only suppose to be in the low teens, so I think it can wait till the weekend. Are the driveshafts interchaneable? If I take out the whole rear end, what else should I remove? Maybe I'll just cut the car in half. The trunk floor and gas tank are clean.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Are the driveshafts interchaneable?[/QUOTE]
Pretty much.
Hey, you could uild an MGB trailer out of the back half!
As for the suspension crossmember...I've got them stacked 6' high - not much demand for the beam itself!
Pretty much.
Hey, you could uild an MGB trailer out of the back half!
As for the suspension crossmember...I've got them stacked 6' high - not much demand for the beam itself!
I all ready own a 72 that is a former race car. From what I gather it has never been registered. It was a showroom stock car for the first five years and then coverted to a flared very modified autocross car. It has been sitting for 20 years and I have owned it for 7 or 8. It needed so much work, that I probably never should have even started to work on it, but I was captivated by its shape. I have since done all of the metal work and most of the fiberglass work. The car only gets worked on when I am feeling very creative. Many cars have come and gone since I first dragged this one home. I picked up a complete 72 parts car with a clean title. When it comes time to finally put a big push into the mechanicals, I should be all set. Unfortunately a flared car will look ridiculous with wire wheels, and I don't realy have the need to keep another parts car hanging around.
