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Wire wheels- cross fitting

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I "think" the splines are the same but the spinners come in coarse and fine thread. I found this out the hard way.
BTW... I have an extra set of front hubs at home.
:jester: :cryin:

I "think" the early were 12 t.p.i and the later ones are 8 t.p.i.
My "spares" are the 12 t.p.i. variety.
I'd sell 'em cheap.
 
Generally there are 2 sizes, which you can think of as small and large hubs. Jaguar wheels for example won't fit an MG, they're too large. And as pointed out there are 2 different thread counts for the spinners, there should be a 12 or 8 cast or stamped inside the center of ones you have from the other car that will tell you.

Now, extremely important is the question of wear patterns on both the hubs and the wheels. Look at the splins from the end, they should look like equilateral triangles with the top squared off. If they lean in either direction, particularly if they look like right triangles I'd be concerned about reusing them. Run a finger lightly across them, they should not feel sharp either. Wheels, the same things.

Now, as for matching used wheels and hubs. You need to be careful doing this since the two wear to each other. This means if the wear patterns don't match pretty well you could accelerate it and cause a failure sonner than expected. What kind of failure you may wonder?? I have a set of hubs at home on the shelf where in a quick stop the splines folded over. Luckily I was able to avoid the problem ahead of me by going off into the grass, but the rear hubs and wheels basically ground themselves flat. So be very careful with these as used components.
 
Gundy are the hubs you have universal front to rear, the splines on my Disc brake seem ok that I plan on using, should I consider a spare set? (hubs you have)

Also has anyone moved up to 14" wire wheels on a Bugeye? Photos
 
I think it can be done with low profile tires (60's?).
Pat
 
mightymidget said:
Gundy are the hubs you have universal front to rear, the splines on my Disc brake seem ok that I plan on using, should I consider a spare set? (hubs you have)

Also has anyone moved up to 14" wire wheels on a Bugeye? Photos
Click to expand...

These are front hubs. My "spares" aren't going anywhere and
if you needed them they are yours when needed. Spares really aren't necessary. As for 14s I think the issue is overall tire/wheel height. The right tires will make the 14s do-able.
You would probably find a greater selection of tires in the 14
size vs 13s.
I run 15x5.5 rims with 185x55 tires.(weird..I know, I know) They will rub some on a HARD braking downhill in a sharp turn. Also they bump on bad road dips at high speed. They haven't caused cuts etc. but it does cause me to "read the road" a little more carefully.
They had no rub issues at the track at CMP and I pushed them
pretty hard. Smooth track is SWEET. My car is also lowered by
about 1 1/2 inches.
If I was doing it all over I'd consider using 14s.
 
I was going to fit 14's on one of my midgets till I hefted one of the 14 inch wire rims and compared the weight to the 13 inch rims. Unsprung weight will go up. I still may do it since 13 inch tire's are getting hard to come by. I need to get a new set of rims and not sure just what to do.

Kurt.
 
mightymidget said:
Thanks Gundy,I see where yours are one inch wider
Which fitment is tighter
Front or rear
Click to expand...

'Bout the same. Thing is these cars have a wider track front vs rear from the factory and that makes the front stick out more.
I have weird setup. I'm using those cursed wire wheel adapters
which further adds to the increased track width. I bought it this way and now I'm trying to make it work for my driving style. Loosing a wheel going down the road will make you
address a problem. I've beefed the things up in their weak
point, that is, the weeny "lug nuts" they used for attachment
of the adapter to the axles. I still can't believe those things were holding my wheels on. I guess for blvd cruising they are fine but I drive a wee bit harder than your typical Sunday cruise in crowd.
Once I'm healed up I have the parts needed to convert my front
setup to wire wheel hubs. That should narrow the track to close to the rear track width for aesthetics and eliminate the adapter in front. I'm using comp rear axles so I'm keeping the rear adapters with their increased track width
and using real lug nuts and locktite. It "should" result
in a front/rear track width that is close to equal.
The way you are going will not have nearly the stick out that I have. You are using the wire wheel axle tubes. A better way to go about this.
I probably should just ditch the whole shebang and go your way
but I'm stubborn and I really like the big wheel spin on
Minilite look. It is NOT the optimum performance way to go.
There is a good reason most race cars have bolt on wheels now days.
I guess one day I'll have to get the larger studs and bolt on wheels like the racers do. That or slow down. Wife votes for slow down.
:crazyeyes:

Pic gives you an idea of the protuberance of the fat tires
wheels and the difference in track width.
 

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nomad said:
I was going to fit 14's on one of my midgets till I hefted one of the 14 inch wire rims and compared the weight to the 13 inch rims. Unsprung weight will go up. I still may do it since 13 inch tire's are getting hard to come by. I need to get a new set of rims and not sure just what to do.

Kurt.
Click to expand...

Ol Hap can fix you right up. Those new VTOs are what I'm putting on the wife's MGB.
 
thanks for photo, I can see from photo I would like the 14 wheel (I know yours are 15")

There is a set of chrome 13" for sell also

which I have a soft spot for also.

ummmm discisions discisions
 
Once again I have to say how much I love the look of that car!
 
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