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MGB-GT wire wheel stuck on '74 GT

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BoneIdle

BoneIdle

Jedi Trainee
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Is anything ever simple?

Jacked up the rear of the GT to install the new handbrake cable. I figured I'd do one side at a time. You know: disconnect old, connect new, lower hack up other side, etc.

I started with the driver's side and figured for easier access, I'd remove the wheel.

The darn thing won't come off the hub. It wobbles a little, but it doesn't come off. I've even tapped it with my undo hammer ( the tire) and using a 2x4 I've pried using the leaf springs for leverage, but nothing.

Any suggestions? Any ideas about how this happened?

I'm definitely stuck.
 
Aloha Garry,

First I would remove the knock off nut and squirt some penetrating oil in wheel hub and let it soak for a while. Something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, and see if that helps. I wouldn't pry to hard because you don't want to warp your wheel.

Next step would be to find someplace where it is safe to drive the car in a figure eight pattern. Loosen the wheel nut and drive the car around and the wheel should break free of the hub. Speed is not required and some daring souls have done this with nut completely removes.

When the wheel is removed, clean the hub and splines of rust and dried grease. Before you remount the wheel, lubricate the splines to prevent a recurrence of the problem. I use a silver colored anti-seize compound to lube the wheels and splines. If it leaks out from the heads of the spokes it tends to match the wheel color. You can also put a thin smear of silicone sealer over the heads of the spokes inside the hub will seal the lube in and the water out.

Good luck, but be safe.
 
But, the issue points to a larger problem: I'm betting asll 4 of your wheels need the splines cleaned & new grease on the hubs: I use white lithium grease from a spray can - do it a few times a year.

Oh, keep that side up in the air as you're squirting PB Blaster down between the wheel & the hub.
 
Thanks guys.

I will heed your suggestions, especially since we're now heading into the season of salt and sand.

I ended up taking the GT to a local mechanic. They had a bit of a struggle with it, but they also had a hydraulic lift, so it did come off.

I went ahead and let them change the cable out since I'm running short on time at the moment. The cost was reasonable and it's one more item off the list. Now, if I can only find and replace that pesky voltage stabilizer.
 
Aloha Garry,

If you are looking for a source to buy a voltage stabilizer, I think Moss Motors has them for about $20. I'm sorry I can't tell you where it is located in your car. Most of the new replacements are solid state electronic unit so they are different for negative and positive ground cars, so order for as appropriate for your car. I'm sure Tony can help you with getting you one and where to find it.

Also, as Tony suggested, check the other wheels on your car to make sure they can be removed. You don't want to be caught with a flat tire and not be able to change it.
 
Thanks Dave.

I've got a spare, but I can't seem to find the existing stabilizer. I've look in all the popular spots, but there just doesn't seem to be anything there. I'll look again tomorrow when it's light.

Amen to the being caught with an unchangeable flat!
 
Not real familiar with the MG location, but the Triumphs and Jags have them located between the tach and the speedometer.
 
I recall it should be attached to the back of the tach on later (post '68) MGs.
 
As you're cleaning and greasing the wheels, take a close look at the condition of the splines on the hubs and wheels. They should look, from the end, like equilateral triangles with the tops flattened. If they're bend in one direction and/or the tops are sharp when you stroke a finger across them, they are becoming worn to a point where they could be dangerous in an emergency stop/start. I have a set of rear hubs I keep from another car to remind me, their splines folded flat when I have to stand on the brakes to avoid a mess that developed in front of me once. Luckily I avoided damage but it was an experience not to be repeated.
 
DrEntropy said:
I recall it should be attached to the back of the tach on later (post '68) MGs.
Click to expand...

& if it's not there, look on the firewall behind the tach.
 
on my 73 it was up high on the firewall behind the brake warning light. Your looking for something rectangular about the size of a AAA battery with wires sticking out of it.
 
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