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Wire wheel hub removal......

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Baz

Baz

Yoda
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.....is NOT as easy as what the Haynes suggests.

Got the split pin out, thanks to some contortion.
Anyway, I don't have a hub puller, I don't have 'special tool THX1138' or whatever it's called.
I just want to put my new rotors on, how do I get that (castellated) nut off please?
I'm not even sure what size the nut is, it's not 15/16 or 1", that's the largest socket I have.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cry.gif
 
I ~believe~ it may be around 1.075" (1 and 1/8), or at least in that neighborhood... errrrrrr... never mind, I think that is for the steel wheel hub. They may be similar in size, but I have no clue.

I've only taken the hub off the spindle on my car once, and I recall having to grab the second largest socket out of the tool chest to do it. And it was a year ago, so my memory of the exact size has undoubtedly faded a bit.
 
I've a steel wheel B now so no comparator, but I remember it's Big. 1-1/16" or 1-1/8" IIRC. The fronts shouldn't be THAT tight, BTW.

Cotter pin should have been easy. Make sure you cut the one 'leg' of the new replacement pins to length BEFORE you put 'em in there, as it's a PITA to spread 'em around the nut in the confines of that spindle.

Best is yet to come. Getting the bolts out of the hub/spindle. PB Blaster and an air wrench recommended.
 
1-5/16" socket...remember they are sided so turn opposite what you think.....front hubs should pop off easily once the castelleted nuts are off (& they're not torqued on the front)....rears will come off with a regular hub puller that can push against the axle itself but they're under tremendous torque so you'll need air.
 
Heee heee.
No PB or windy needed!
Hub between my knees and two opposing torque wrenches at 60lbs each got those puppies off!
Anyway, 1-1/8" is right, just popped to O'R's and snagged all they had over 1".

Now then, I put it all back together, and the rotor/hub won't turn, too tight on the castle nut was I?

Which begs the question, is all that holds my wheels to the car, is a (4x) cotter pins?
 
Thanks for the heads up on the rears Tony, I was going to get to those tomorrow.
If I need air, O'Reillys has a 7 gal, 2.5hp, 135psi compressor and wrench set with sockets for $150, is that a deal?
 
nope, the castle nut is holding the hubs on. That cotter pin only prevents the nut from turning.

If you can't turn the hub, then you're undoubtedly too tight on the castle nut, assuming all other parts of the hub assembly went back in correctly.
 
Oh yeah, the large keyed flat washer prevents the spinning hub and bearings from applying any rotational forces on the castle nut, so the seemingly weak cotter pin doesn't get sheared. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Ahh, Rob. Yeah, Barry... four li'l soft steel pins t'wixt you and disaster. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Rotate the hub with the nut backed off, slowly tighten it as the wheel spins... if it starts to drag, you're too tight. Back off a flat and you should be in the vicinity. Just so they're not "wobbly" loose. They're tapered rollers and can be damaged if overtightened.
 
Alright, they're in.
Both sides, except for the two cotter pins which by some twist of fate, have decided they don't want back in.
The castellated nut doesn't appear to be in as far as what it was before I took it out, not exposing the hole for the cotter pin; too many turns to expose the hole, and the rotor doesn't turn, too little as the good Dr described, and there's no hole.
The rotors are exactly the same size as prior, bearings and washers and all else that came out are back in as removed.
I might knock it on the head for today, I'm cream crackered.
Thanks all, suggestions on the cotter pin conundrum are appreciated.
36395ab3635f56e15544854bd5bc00d80_large.jpg
 
There's another hole in the stub axle at right angle to the one you took the pin from, IIRC. If one doesn't line up, the other should.

I'm fair pagger'd meself. Honda work is not fun to me. I'd fob it off in a eyeblink to do your car but th' geography is a bit daunting.
 
I'd pay you double what Honda did, and all the CAB you can drink.
Was fun today, got done what I wanted to, got filthy and ruined one pair of jeans.
Being the first time into the breach for me, took a little longer than I thought.
Saw a bunch of 'while I'm in there' jobs too....
Thanks all, again, couldn't have done it without. Well, not in an afternoon anyway.
 
Is that a cut rotor or new? What is the min thickness. That sure looks purty!
 
If you were here in the area, the CAB would suffice. The Hondroid is owned by very close friends and has actually been civilised. I've been riding herd on it for years.

You'd be part of the same clan, no doubt. AND you'd learn all this hands-on stuff, too! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

I hate the internet sometimes, tho.
 
I know. Iknowiknow.

I ain't THAT upset. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
ain't it delightful how the 'net can make the world so much smaller? And yet, at the same time remind you how stinking big the world is?
 
talling it without the little flat washer-type spacers & see what happens.Try insr
 
tony barnhill said:
without the little flat washer-type spacers.
Click to expand...
Bingo! Thank you Tony! Now it's deep enough, yet far too early for me to attempt the cotter pin. I'll give my brain about an hour to catch up and finish the job.
Vince, new stuff in there mate, except for the calipers which were reman from O'Reillys ($40).
 
Hmmm.
Not finished.
With the small flat washer removed, the bearings and keyed washer sink enough to see the cotter pin hole, yet exhibits a wobble.
Washer in, and no wobble but not deep enough.
I played with the positioning of this washer and it doesn't matter where it is, it prohibits the nut going far enough down the stub axle.
I guess I was under the impression that the bearings held the bulk of the anti-wobble load, but need to be flush on the taper of the axle.
Sorry guys for the elongated rant here, I'll keep messing.
I never wanted wires anyway, and am too cheap to buy a new rear end.
 
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